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Revelation of the Daleks Necrosian Bomb Build

Started by elkad, May 24, 2023, 02:06 pm

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elkad

Reference: https://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=7740.msg97830#msg97830


I couldn't find the exact calculator, so I got the closest one with a 5 x 7 button selection. I didn't know the plus, minus, divide, times & equal button was not the same size. Since it had another level I didn't think of it much & believed I had enough buttons.

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I tried making a stencil from the calculator shell to make a bigger shell to fit in the prop. It wasn't acquit. I used a scrap peace of plastic & tried cutting it with the Dremel, then a box knife, then a simple hammer & flat head screwdriver as a chisel, winch seem to work the best, BUT, the plastic broke, & I went back to using cardboard.

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I meticulously measured out the 7 x 10 mm buttons with a 3mm gap & cut out the cardboard with the precise cutting screwdriver.

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Once I put all the buttons in the holes to see if they fit, I find I'm short, BY ONE.

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But that didn't stop me, I cut out a scrap flatten 6mm thick PVC pipe & shaved down a rough button for the last hole.

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I have an on/off switch. As for the lighted latch buttons, I'm saving up to get a set.

elkad

I hate spell check. I gives you, a correct word, but not the one you need. >(
It would be nice if it had a speak & spell to let you here the correct word.

elkad

I've decided to do this prop with cardboard till I find info on YouTube, How to cut small square plastic holes. I'm leaning toward using a jigsaw with a makeshift sandpaper attachment blade, adapter, thingy.
I cut the display out of the calculator circuit board & cut down the plastic face plate that go's over it. I put some masking tape to see how the white lines would look. I need to get some white line tape & some color tape for the buttons.

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elkad

I wanted to make some optional buttons for the number pad but I didn't have enough micro momentary switches. So I'm making some out of anything conductive I can find around the house. This tuna can will work quite nicely. I just need to flatten this peace & sand off the protective coat on both sides. (keeps the food from reacting to the can & rust.)

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Now punch out a few tabs to work as a connection element, & solder both sides.

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Now let's work on the compression springs. I'm using a screwdriver, about 5.5 thick & put it on a drill.

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I'm using a spring from one of my dad's used insulin injector pens, winding it around the screwdriver, & using a rod I recycled from a dead printer.

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Now we take the punch hole & glue it to the spring with the soldered contact on the inside of the spring, & glue the button on top.

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I haven't gotten around to making the bottom part of this switch, but it involves two separate nails you solider the wires to, & wen you push the button down, it touches those to nails make the circuit contact.

elkad

I made a cardboard replica of the project box suggested to use for this project. Comparing the pictures, is a bit to big. So, I tried my measured box witch as just a little thinner. This one was a little to long.


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So I'm going to try to add some of the measured parts & figure out how much I need to shorten my temp box. I'm using some leftover electrical parts from my Master's Logopolis Remote, & colored cardboard for a better picture.

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elkad

I forgot to mention I bought some new button switches & just waiting for them to come in the mail.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164786867241?var=464266325057

16mm squear Momentary Push Button Self-Lock LED Lamp 5 Pins 12v.jpg

Volpone

I always wonder what these props were made of.  The inset, of course, is some kind of calculator, flipped upside down, but the recent pictures clicked something in my brain and I wonder if maybe it was a portable tape recorder:  http://salestores.com/hamiltonelec49.html 

I mean, it could be anything that size and shape--an AC/DC power converter or something-but the form factor and size look about right. 
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

Rassilons Rod

Honestly, I reckon the box was just one of these with some greeblies added...

RS Project Box
In the cities in the streets there's a tension you can feel,
The breaking strain is fast approaching, guns and riots.
Politicians gamble and lie to save their skins,
And the press get fed the scapegoats,
Public Enema Number One.

Jade

Interesting. I had looked at taking this apart for bits but as it still worked I was reluctant especially as there probably wouldn't have been that much inside. But now I'm thinking of a repaint and some greebles and turning it into something.

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elkad

I like making it out of cardboard first, I don't have the budget to mess up with PVC. Once I get this finished, my diagram will be posted on the references. Still waiting for my button switches. The panel is screwed down to the small blocks of cardboard, which I need to re-do, because I forgot to put in the buttons & other small things to have an actual springy button.
I did have an idea on how to label the buttons I have. Spray paint the buttons & use a label maker with a white letter on a black background.


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elkad

I made some cardboard heat sinks for the side of the bomb, your opinion, dose that look close or do you think I should shave it down a  Millimeter?

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The bomb prop had a screen or film over the buttons, so I used a Ziploc baggy for the plastic film. Also, a smaller heat sink bar under the calculator screen. (I forgot, did I mention I plan to make the keypad functional? Wired to a set of small LED lights on the calculator screen & 4 empty holes under the square button switches."

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Now I'm finished with measuring my cardboard version, I'm going to start with the PVC project box enclosure.

elkad


elkad

I forgot to mention the screws I used for the prop. I don't know the actual screws used, (any info please), but this is working for a second choice.

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OK, lest start working on the PVC box, me measuring out were the screw mounts go.

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I use a 3/32 on the cardboard box to put in the screws, but I changed that to 7/64 because cardboard is more fixable than PVC, & was a devil tightening, to the point of braking the mount. (I heard it creek & on the verge of snapping).

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Measuring the center line to line up parts & accessories.

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I messed up & made a to big of a heat sink for the top & made another.

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On / Off switch hole.

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I just got my switches in & their not the same size as the ones I've bin using for reference. No problem, not that much of an adaptation from a 13mm 6v to 17mm 12v square switch. (Need to re-measure the squares I drew on the box, good thing I didn't drill the holes yet. REMINDER: Must use brain when reading switch specifics.)

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Also, I got 2 reds, instead of one red & one white. I did order one of each color, that bit I remember & looked over my order before clikcing buy now. OPTIONS SCREEN OPEN: Get another, this time white, causing me to delve deep in my empty pocket, or try to modify the switch with a white DIY plastic cap.

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elkad

QUESTION: Dose anyone know where I can get a white 17mm Square Momentary Push Button Switch Self-Lock LED Lamp 5 Pins replacement cap color filter thingy for cheep?

LED push button cap clear.jpg

elkad

OK, tested out  a 5/8" hole for the buttons on some scrap PVC to make sure it's the right size hole. Measured out where to drill the holes with new measurements & drilled the smaller vent holes below it.
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Making the smaller heat sink for the bottom, I'm not going to glue it till I'm finished with the keypad & display.

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Wiring the LED buttons. The black wire at the side is the connection from the negative LED at the bottom to the latch switch & negative terminal, then you got the positive line to the positive of the LED. (I didn't know the latch switch & LED were separate. LEARN SOMETHING NEW.)

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Now the side heat sinks. Cutting PVC slats. I'm holding the panel down to the box with a couple screws so I can glue this bottom side of the heat sink. Add some small PVC mounts & drill a hole threw the screw hole & continue with the other side of the part holing it down with #6-32 size bolts & nuts. (I was going to use the screw but the screwdriver couldn't fit in the box frame.)

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