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Ex's Wooden Console Redux

Started by expendable, Aug 20, 2019, 07:25 am

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I saw this great secondary console room on Deviant Art and decided it was time to tackle the 14th Season's Wooden Console again, try to do it better this time. So where to start? With the base, of course.


22 inches point to point for the top structural hexagon, 24 inches if you include the base trim ring. This is standing 16 inches proud, but I may lengthen that (the ball feet may make up the difference). Five panels (8 13/32nds x 13 inches) and one door, which I've modified slightly (still need a handle) fill the around the center, with 1 1/2 inch posts filling the corners, each with a recessed center 3/8ths inches deep and 3/4th inches wide.


There's a 1/8th inch gap on each of the door sides. As this swings out, I decided to add two 1/4 inch strips along the sides of the tapered posts to help keep light from shining through the side gap.


With the door, side panels and trim ring hidden, you can see my tapered posts for fitting my side panels. I'd probably spline-join the side panels to the posts for an actual build, or use a thin panel fitting into the post grooves and putting some thin stock on top of the thin panel.

Well, it's a start.


And of course, thinking about how the console is gong to sit securely on this has forced me to consider a redesign of this plinth.

It should look much the same, but I'm changing some of the elements.

Version 1406, coming soon.


Aug 22, 2019, 08:22 am #2 Last Edit: Aug 22, 2019, 08:25 am by expendable
As I said before, when I got to thinking about how I'm going to securely position the console on top of this plinth, I realized I needed to do a redesign and a better break down of the individual components.

plinth1406b.png plinth1406c.png

So first I need five full panels, 23-1/2 inches tall, 9-17/64 wide, 3/4 inches thick. Each side-edge is beveled 60° to allow it to be fitted together.

And one door panel with door. You can see the outer base ring, which is six segments cut from 1-1/2 inch square stock to form a hexagon that wraps around the front of the panels with lapped joints. They'll probably be pinned for strength as well.


There are also three smaller hexagon rings made from 3/4 inch by 1-1/2 inch stock to reinforce the interior. If necessary, stringers can be run between the rings to reinforce the sides.


The corners of each of the panels will be covered by this trim - 1 inch wide, with a 1/2 inch wide groove cut 1/4 inch deep, which gives them some clearance for the underside panels of the console top.


Add a trim ring base, a 1 inch high ring of 3/4 inch stock miter cut and fitted, and a 1/2 inch high outer ring, and we have a very sturdy plinth we can now top.

Rassilons Rod

Aug 22, 2019, 08:44 am #3 Last Edit: Aug 22, 2019, 08:44 am by rassilonsrod
Some great work here. But if I may suggest, I think these corner posts look like a nightmare to build in real life.

It would perhaps be easier to add the angled edges to the panels between, rather than carve out a v inside the corner pieces.

Just a suggestion :)

Quote from: expendable on Aug 22, 2019, 08:22 am
In the cities in the streets there's a tension you can feel,
The breaking strain is fast approaching, guns and riots.
Politicians gamble and lie to save their skins,
And the press get fed the scapegoats,
Public Enema Number One.


Aug 22, 2019, 03:12 pm #4 Last Edit: Aug 22, 2019, 03:34 pm by expendable
I believe I can use a V-groove bit to carve the backside of the corner trim.

Although, I could flatten the corners to place a 1/2 inch square block, then use 1/4 inch stock to build up the sides and get my channel without sacrificing much in strength.


This is looking superb!
No, not the mind probe!


Tonight, the framework for the top, including a drawer.

Overhead View

A hexagon made up of six panels slightly larger than the base with six fins radiating out for panel supports. Each fin is braced for strength, forming the truncated corners of this console. For a better look, veneer or mitered end piece can be applied.


Isometric view.

The individual bays are very small, they may be a challenge to fit for the writing desk. I may need to notch my plinth top structure to accommodate.


Aug 25, 2019, 04:16 am #7 Last Edit: Aug 25, 2019, 04:19 am by expendable

So tonight I added edge supports for the table tops and bottoms


I then added the 3/8 inch table tops, and fitted the five equipment sections with their equipment panels. This required adjusting the openings in the central core section.

Each panel is still editable and set 15/16 inches deep for clearance. I've also left the writing section table-top editable so I can fit it appropriately.

Underside table panels were also fitted.


are you going to turn this into plans for an actual build or will it remain virtual?   I love what you are doing with the layout.
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"


Honestly, I just don't know yet. Regular 3D modeling doesn't need this sort of internal detail, but by my building it like this, I have the opportunity, certainly. My plans will at least be sturdy!

I've been tossing around the possibility of turning this into a quarter-sized scale model (small enough to fit on a shelf, big enough to detail) as well as a physical diorama in 1/12th scale.

Later, I'll post my work on figuring out the console flaps without going into too much boring detail on how I worked out my working hinge. I have to find either a part on the 3D warehouse for the drawer pull or pull an image into Sketchup to model from.


Aug 26, 2019, 04:11 am #10 Last Edit: Aug 27, 2019, 05:56 am by warmcanofcoke
Because I want to be able to open and close the doors covering these panels, I needed to construct a "living hinge."


Basically I make a tooth template consisting of the round hinge and the two legs, with clearance areas for rotating the part wrapped around the pin (pin is created later). This template is put on measured marks and the individual teeth are stretched out as needed. All joins are removed.


The bottom of the door flap for each panel is basically a triangle section where the hinges are
attached, then the rest of the panel, shaped to fit. I added a 1/16th inch gap along the sides to make the panels easier to open.
The bottom section with it's half of the hinge is made into one component, and the other half is joined with the rest of the panel, pinned, and then made into the door flap component.

Also, as you can see, I tried tackling the interior fittings of the writing desk and will need to work some more on this.

The keen of eye may notice that the holes in the tabletop for the back of the panel sections have been enlarged.[attachid


I've added the under console flaps and slipped the top down on top of the plinth. Some color and a quick render gives us this:


It's a start.