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Started by jmw, Jul 01, 2017, 06:15 pm

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jmw

Jul 01, 2017, 06:15 pm Last Edit: Jul 02, 2017, 03:44 am by jmw
My daughter is having a geek, random fandom wedding and wants guests to come in costume.  She wants me to walk her down the aisle, but since she and her fiancĂ© are having difficulty selecting their costume era ("Gee, Dad, I think something from our Ren Faire garb, or maybe Victorian, or steam punk...") it dawned on me that the best way for Dear Old Dad to fit in would be to dress as a Time Lord.  And the only way for a Time Lord to get to the wedding would be in a Tardis.  But let's not get too carried away, perhaps a scale replica would do.  And why not kill two birds with one stone and make it work as a wedding card receptacle?  I found various pictures of similar ideas on the web but none of them quite satisfied my OCD tendencies.  So with the help of loads of research on the Tardis Builders site, I am setting off on this Project.  I have chosen the current incarnation of the Tardis and will try to stay as faithful to that design/look as I can within my modest tool set.  Here is the SketchUp model I made as my build guide.


There is a slot above the front Police Box sign into which the cards can be placed (Cards and Related Documents In Slot) and the roof section will be removable so they can recover the cards after the reception.  I haven't sorted the lamp, yet, but have loads of steps before I have to do that.  Most of the other materials have been gathered.
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So, off to start cutting wood.  As summer has arrived and temps in the garage tend to get toasty, I don't know how many hours per day I will be spending, but I will try to update this blog as visible progress is made.  And as a first-time Tardis builder, I welcome any and all hints and critiques throughout the project.No message is associated with this attachment.Build Log Cardis.jpg
Mike

jmw

I ripped the corner posts from a piece 1 x 12 hardwood.  Times like this make me wish I had bought a table saw instead of a radial arm saw 30 years ago, but, oh well...

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I really like the profiled posts but since I don't have a router table I had to improvise.  I cut the profile out of 1/32" basswood and laminated it to the posts and I think it looks pretty reasonable.

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Next step will be to start the faces, but as it is 90+ degrees in the garage I think that will have to wait until tomorrow morning.
Mike

jmw

A second look at the posts this morning proved that "Measure twice, cut once" only works if you can read your own writing (forehead slap emoji needed here).  I realized that I had mixed up the numbers and cut the post facing incorrectly so the relief around the top signs was way off.  Of course I had done a spectacular job of gluing the facing to the post, so no way to easily pop it off.  Here's hoping I get the dumb mistakes out of the way early!  The properly cut facing looks a lot better and the post rebuild will be completed once I procure more 1/32 sheet material.

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Mike

jmw

Not a lot of visible progress to show as I spent much of the day just ripping the 1/8" sheet into the appropriate pieces.  I did manage to pick up more 1/32" sheet and finish the posts.  With some of the leftovers I built a jig to help assembly of the windows.  Since the rails and muntins will be 3/32 x 3/32 basswood I figure I will need something to keep them in position and straight while the glue dries.P1020432.JPG
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Mike

jmw

I finished cutting all of the wood pieces for the windows and panels.  The window jig worked pretty well.  I only had a few instances of glue seeping out of the joints and sticking the window to the jig a bit.  Fortunately none of the stickage was permanent and I was able to get the windows released with a bit of judicious, um, persuasion.  And we have windows. :)
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To give the illusion of the routed panels on the faces of the box, I started with a sheet of 1/8" basswood and glued appropriately sized strips of 1/8" material to it.  Of course the scale for the build meant these had to be ripped to width as nothing was available commercially.  The frame around the faces and down the center is 3/16 x 1/8 and that size, fortunately, was available.  Here's a look at the first panel completed.  The windows are just set into place.  They need to be painted and have the "glass" inserted before gluing.
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Mike

Scarfwearer

This is looking great!
Everyone who builds a Tardis seems to bring new ideas to share. I don't think I've seen a window jig before, and I don't recall seeing post laminations for the NST either, though I may have missed them.

What scale are you working to?

With regard to getting the dumb mistakes over with early - that's never worked for me. I usually have to try them all at least once.

jmw

Thanks for the compliment.  The window jig really helped make the construction go fast and kept the pieces well aligned.  The post lamination was a true case of necessity being the mother of invention.  I couldn't figure out any other way to get the profile on the posts and it turned out okay I think.

The scale is roughly 1:6.16.  I ended up with that screwy number because I sized the slot for the cards first (distance between the posts) at 7-1/16" (just a hair wider than most wedding cards are long). From the plans on the site it looks like the real-life distance is 43.5", so I ended up with a bizarre scale.  Of course that's only the scale on the outside.  The interior scale is different  ;D

I am starting to puzzle over paint choice.  Since this is only going to take a small amount, I cannot get any custom color mixed.  The local hobby and craft store folks had no idea what Pantone 654 looks like nor how to match it to any of their colors.  Any suggestions?
Mike

galacticprobe

Jul 07, 2017, 06:07 am #7 Last Edit: Jul 07, 2017, 06:24 am by galacticprobe
I just did a Google search for "Pantone 654" and it showed me several different shades of blue! Then of course besides the "plain" 654, you've got Pantone 654c, and 654u...

My suggestion (just mine; others may have better ones) would be to look at Google Images for that Pantone code and see which one suits your eye the best. Then print it out and if your hobby store has no clue as to the Pantone, don't even mention it to them. Just show them the color you've printed and ask them what the closest "FS" (I believe it stands for "Federal Standard" in the US) color code to that, and then let them run with it. Most modellers know and work with FS colors and they should be able to help match something that comes close. Even if it's a shade off and you have to dab in some black or white to darken or lighten the blue to get the match you're after, it's better than beating your head against the wall trying to explain Pantone to someone that has no idea what Pantone is.

You could also try looking up what the CYMK or RGB numbers are for Pantone 654 (most Pantones have codes for them), and try asking it they've got a blue that matches the CYMK or RGB numbers.

(Also, don't forget the "BBC Official TARDIS Color" of Pantone 2955c. You could try matching that to Pantone 654 and see which comes closest, and then try getting the FS color from there.)

I hope some of this makes sense.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

The14thDr

Jul 07, 2017, 07:36 am #8 Last Edit: Jul 07, 2017, 07:40 am by The14thDr
Googling "Pantone 654", I can't find any definitive results (like Dino, all I'm getting is different shades of blue).

However, if it's of any interest to you, the RGB values for "Pantone 2955c" is 0,59,111 and the CMYK is 100,55,10,48.

Sorry I couldn't be of any more help.


EDIT: I just found this online:
http://encycolorpedia.com/0f3063

RGB: 15,48,99
CMYK: 85,52,0,61
And just for the fun of it, the hexadecimal code: #0f3063
"Would you like a jelly baby?"

jmw

Quote from: galacticprobe on Jul 07, 2017, 06:07 am

(Also, don't forget the "BBC Official TARDIS Color" of Pantone 2955c. You could try matching that to Pantone 654 and see which comes closest, and then try getting the FS color from there.)

I hope some of this makes sense.

Dino.


Google is your friend, except when it's not.  The only way to get an accurate look at any of Pantone's colors is to look at one of their swatch books (which are hard to find outside the printing industry) or go to their website (and hope your monitor reproduces it well).  Based on the discussion about the model built for "Flatline", I thought the color for the 12th Doctor's box had changed from 2955C to 654C.  I know obsessing over this for a "one time use" Tardis might be viewed as, well, obsessive, but if anybody can relate I suspect it is the folks on this board  ;D
Mike

jmw

Quote from: The14thDr on Jul 07, 2017, 07:36 am

EDIT: I just found this online:
http://encycolorpedia.com/0f3063

RGB: 15,48,99
CMYK: 85,52,0,61
And just for the fun of it, the hexadecimal code: #0f3063


Wow, what a great website!  I went to that page and scrolled down and found that it lists an amazing number of paint brands with their colors that either match or come closest to the color I am looking for.  Great find, thanks!!!
Mike

galacticprobe

Jul 08, 2017, 05:18 am #11 Last Edit: Jul 08, 2017, 05:19 am by galacticprobe
Quote from: The14thDr on Jul 07, 2017, 07:36 am
EDIT: I just found this online:
http://encycolorpedia.com/0f3063

I've got a new Bookmark! (Thanks, 14th! This will also come in handy for other colors, some I need for the house.)

Quote from: The14thDr on Jul 07, 2017, 07:36 am
Googling "Pantone 654", I can't find any definitive results (like Dino, all I'm getting is different shades of blue).

Yeah. That's how my search started out - nothing but loads of shades of blue. Then I started looking at some of the "fine print" on some of those thumbnails. That's how I spotted the "c" and "u" after some of those Pantone 654 images.

I like the site you found much better. It even lists "Prussian Blue", which supposedly the color the original Brachacki prop was painted. (Then again I've also seen it said to have been "Peruvian Blue": a color I've yet to find.) Still, loads of great blues to play with!

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

jmw

Progress over the weekend was a little slow.  Garage temperature was hovering around 90 F and I didn't want too many sweat stains on the wood  ;)  I finished the top sign boxes for all 4 panels and printed the signs on photo paper.  Here is one temporarily placed just to see how it looks.
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I expected the roof construction to be the hardest part and I was right.  I hemmed and hawed between notching the center post or cutting supports for the panels and in the end went with the supports.  There was just a bit too much flex in the 1/8" material without them.  This part proved why I will never be a finish carpenter.  If it weren't for wood filler, I never could have done it.

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I am experimenting with the windows now.  My plan is to glue a slightly oversize sheet of mylar to the back of each of the window frames and glue to mylar to the back of the face sheets.  I lightly sanded the mylar to get the frosted panes and dotted the other two frames with UV epoxy to get the pebbled effect.  I am not happy with the frosted panes but think the epoxy worked fine for the other two.  Maybe frosted glass paint would work better.P1020446.JPG

It is time to get serious about choosing a paint color.  And figuring out the lamp.  And deciding if I am going to add light and sound (which seems a bit overboard for this single use prop, but in for a penny...?)
Mike

russellsuthern

Good work!

Those windows look great!
I wonder if the same method would work for full sized windows.....

Glad to hear you are about to enter the "Which shade of blue?" debate, I'll look forward to seeing what you choose....

Regards,

Russell

jmw

I have finished the main structure so I banded it together and stood her up for a photo op.P1020453.jpg

Greg (Bob's Your Uncle) posted the Behr Paint details over in his Diary and I liked the looks of it, so yesterday afternoon off I went.  I showed the paint can photo to the young man running the paint desk and his first words were "I like the name, already!"  Turns out he is a huge Doctor Who fan and was happy to mix a quart for me.  It looked good in the store, but, alas, when I tested it on a scrap piece of wood it was way too dark.  I tried white primer on the wood but still no go.  Back to the store I went in an attempt to get it toned down.  Explaining what I was looking for to the lady behind the counter said she would try.  Unfortunately, even though I said I only wanted it lightened a little, she put as much white into the can as would fit and I ended up with a color that was now way too light.  About this time my guy from yesterday showed up and took over.  We started with a new sample size of Greg's mix and then went through 4 or 5 incremental steps to get it lighter.  It is still not perfect, but I'm okay with it now.  Here it is on another scrap.  I'll wait a day or so before starting the real painting, just to make sure I don't change my mind.P1020454.JPG
Mike