1:13 Brachacki TARDIS laser cut acrylic + styrene

Started by lespaceplie, May 25, 2017, 06:43 pm

Previous topic - Next topic

lespaceplie

Finally making some progress on this.

tardis progress.jpg

lespaceplie

I believe this will do for an average TARDIS blue. Nothing exotic - just Krylon matte ink blue. The dark value will ensure it's not too light overall after the grey weathering is applied. I'm aiming for the same look as the Shawcraft models but not quite as weathered. It's greener than the New Series boxes and (for an odd comparison) the Dinky toy.

tardis blue.jpg

lespaceplie

One more note: Due to this being for the fan video, it's not precisely in original Brachacki or cut-down mode. The overall dims are original, but the lock has been placed on the opposite door, the door sign panel is white text on blue, and the window frames are blue instead of white. It supposes what could have been had the original prop been properly rebuilt apart from a few assumptions. Imagine this as a rebuild without Newbery's ideas.

Volpone

Kinda like the guy building the oak TARDIS, the acrylic looks really neat.  Kinda a shame to paint it. 

Anyway, the other thought on the blue windows...I'm reminded the windows on the actual models during the Hartnell years were blue.  So you'd get the TARDIS materializing in the establishing shot with blue windows and then Ian and everyone climbing out of a TARDIS with white windows.  And then for the FX shot of the TARDIS arriving in the "Space Museum," they used the model.  So you get to actually see The Doctor standing in front of the TARDIS with blue windows. 

For that matter, a lot of the model shots all the way up to the Romana era, the TARDIS has the white phone panel sign.  But that's neither here nor there. 
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

lespaceplie

The Krylon Fusion "matte" finish is still too glossy. The weathering process should tamp that down, but I might still have to dust up the model to record video. It also took a long time to cure and stayed tacky much longer than expected. This particular paint can be used to coat outdoor items and is almost like very fine vinyl. I wouldn't recommend it for small models unless you can get away with a single coat, which is what I have done here.

tardis blue 2.jpg

karsthotep

I don't know I rather like it that way.   I like how clean it is. 
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

lespaceplie

I won't be adding texture, though. It will only get a dark and light patina in spite of what I suggested about the Shawcraft model finishes. It's just too small for that much beating.

lespaceplie

Jun 25, 2019, 04:08 pm #22 Last Edit: Jun 25, 2019, 04:10 pm by lespaceplie
This is about as far as I'm willing to go with the weathering. Keep in mind the deviations from alterations made in the history of the real prop. The choices are in service to the fan video. In a way, the dirty finish looks more like some stages of the TY-J props.

weathering.jpg

lespaceplie

Jul 03, 2019, 04:37 pm #23 Last Edit: Jul 03, 2019, 05:23 pm by lespaceplie
Though I'm fairly happy with the results, another in 100% original Brachacki guise is already being planned. Why build one when you can build two for twice the price? Am I right? Fortunately, I have two more 1:13 fresnels to play with.

There are some micro fine adjustments being made to the laser files to better account for sanding and the slightly wider cut that happens in the styrene sheet. The first go all fit together without using filler, but I had to fudge things a wee bit here and there. This also resulted in the lintel boxes being at slightly different heights due to tiny compound errors. It's no wonkier than the actual prop, mind.

The more major revisions will include:

stronger roof construction
metal struts with slightly more generous spacing around the lamp (already broken and replaced on the first model)
holes behind the lintel boxes to run EL wire for lighting
window frames that aren't part of the door backing (easier than masking them during painting)
corner alignment holes in the base for the corner posts

lespaceplie

Back at this with the improved roof in all acrylic. File, bond, paint, file, paint and paint again.

Another thing added to this build: opening door. It won't have hinges - only tape. The replacement paint choice is almost the same color but even more matte, and I will dirty it all down as much as possible.

roof2.jpg