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getting a dirty tardis sign

Started by tomatofish1, May 18, 2017, 03:15 pm

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tomatofish1

Hi I was wondering how i go about getting a sign that looks like photo attached Thank you  sign.jpg

No More

Quote from: tomatofish1 on May 18, 2017, 03:15 pm
Hi I was wondering how i go about getting a sign that looks like photo attached Thank you


Not as a helpful answer, but a side query: that's a photo of a TPE Brachacki isn't it?  The PTO sign has identical dirt markings to the one at the DWE in Cardiff, but the door lock is different to what was there last summer.  (Was brass and flush fitted, this looks chrome and protrudes.).  Wondering where your photo is from, and what variations it implies there are in the TPE builds.

Thanks.


superrichi1a

How you'd go about achieving a finish like that would depend on the material the sign is constructed of, and what the finish is like on that.

I admit I can't remember what the sign on that prop is built from, but assuming it's wood or similar with a non-shiny smooth surface you'd get that weathering by applying washes of black and brown paint, watered down, in stages, and each time dabbing the majority off with a clean rag or tissue. Then, if you're not satisfied, you might want to 'dry brush' the edges of the sign by getting a very small amount of paint on a brush or piece of towel and dabbing it at the very edges of the piece.

If, like me, you have a plastic sign with a shiny smooth surface this method won't work as well, as when you dab the majority of the paint will come off and it'll look more like you're just leaving impressions of the rag in the paint rather than dirt is gathering on it.
With mine, I used black and brown shoe polish, applied it liberally, wiped it around with a cloth and then dabbed slightly. The look it gives is different, it will always look cleaner and probably 'white out' in photographs. It just comes down to the finish on your sign, honestly. Don't use clean, non stick, white plastic if you want a sign weathered like that! (Or, if you do, be prepared to spend a lot of time carefully dabbing at layers of paint!)
Isn't it how ironic that we have to think of solutions out of the box, in order to build our boxes a lot of the time?

tomatofish1

My Sign would be paper that has  been laminated would that be a problem

No More

You could always consider doing it digitally as part of what gets printed, along with the lettering.  It would then be completely controlled, you could get it right first to your satisfaction and then print it and laminate.  But a) it's then either black&white (so less realistic) or the colour printing is less predictable for what it'll end up looking like, and b) the shininess from the lamination is on top of the "dirt", which makes it look less real.
As with so much, it depends on what your priorities are and what you think looks right for you.

superrichi1a

No More is totally bang on. The easiest method in that case would be to print out the dirt on the sign, though this would offer chance for the ink to become obvious and also be hidden by the lamination.

My advice would be to try the method I outlined above. Perhaps you could very lightly sand the lamination so as to give the weathering more purchase. Too much and it will make the sign look faded and become obvious, but if you get the level right it might nicely get rid of the glean of lamination and allow you to add the desired type of weathering with minimal frustration.
Isn't it how ironic that we have to think of solutions out of the box, in order to build our boxes a lot of the time?

Volpone

If it's laminated, my first inclination is to get out your shoeshine kit.  (You have a shoeshine kit, don't you?) and daub some black around with the dauber and then smudge it up a bit with the rag.  Easy peasy. 

For the Mk I.3 version of my TARDIS, I had a laminated sign, 8 1/2x11, and a much larger frame, so I had to "weather" it to try to hide the edges.  I used a wet rag and a tube of "lamp black" artists acrylic paint, followed by a tube of "zinc white" with these results:  20140412_134148.jpg
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

Scarfwearer

Another way to 'weather' a plastic surface is with some unevenly applied black spray paint. It's easy to overdo it thought, so I'd practice a bit on something else to see what you get.

Crispin

Volpone

Speaking of which, the first time I weathered my TARDIS, I squirted a bit of my black acrylic artist paint into an old Windex spray bottle, added water, shook it up, and sprayed my whole TARDIS with it.  At first I freaked out because it went on very dark, but it dried and looked wonderful.  But it also would quickly gum up the sprayer.  I never got the effect to work properly after that first time and the dark blue TARDIS looks fine without weathering.  That said, I always considered trying wood stain.  Since that's oil based, I suspect you'd have to throw away the sprayer after each use, but I think it would work well.  Actually, I used wood stain to weather a second-hand dresser and it gave an effect like the acrylic paint on wet rag method of weathering a TARDIS.  I'm pretty sure they make black wood stain. 
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

tomatofish1

ok how do i get it printed then and thank you all for replying to me

galacticprobe

May 20, 2017, 06:00 am #11 Last Edit: May 20, 2017, 06:06 am by galacticprobe
You'll find replicas of the Phone Panel sign that you can download (free) here: http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=306.0. Just look for the version you want, and then click on the download link (they're either in PDF or JPG), and Save As... once the file loads.

If you also want the St. John Ambulance logo, you'll find those here: http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=6014.0. Again they're either PDF of JPG, and should be sized appropriately. (If your build is scaled down you might have to print things out at a smaller-than 100 percent size.)

You'll be able to print the St. John logo out from your printer as the largest size (for Met Boxes) is 6 inches in diameter. The Phone Panel sign you might have to go to a place like Office Depot/Max, or a library, unless your printer can do 11 x 17 inch paper. (Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but the Hartnell sign is 13.5 inches tall and 10 inches wide, and that's the inside of the Phone Door frame. The frame is 1 inch wide all round, and the entire recess panel is 15.5 inches tall and 12 inches wide.)

I hope this makes sense, and helps a little.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

tomatofish1

Thank you very much that is a wonderful help ill have a go ansd see how i get on Thank you