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Karsten's Kenneth Sharp Console

Started by karsthotep, Mar 25, 2017, 06:47 pm

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Scarfwearer

Quote from: karsthotep on Nov 27, 2017, 01:23 pm
I still have those pictures from when I visited you in Seattle to see it back around 2006 I believe


2004! They're right here on the forum. In the Archive section. :)

http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=127

near the bottom of the page.

karsthotep

Gahhhh it's been that long???   I'll take a look
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

galacticprobe

Nov 27, 2017, 05:05 pm #77 Last Edit: Nov 27, 2017, 05:08 pm by galacticprobe
Quote from: karsthotep on Nov 27, 2017, 01:23 pm
Not sure I want wheels or feet, its really not something I would be wheeling around so not sure. debating on that.

Well, if you're planning on taking this old girl to conventions to put her on display, then you might want to consider wheels - at least the locking ones. You could get her all set up, and then be told by Con organizers that you need to shift her over so many feet one way or another. You'd certainly want wheels to help with that because she looks like she's going to be rather heavy.

Locking wheels would act like feet when they're locked, so with those you could have the best of both worlds: feet for when she's in place and not going anywhere, and wheels when you might have need to shift her around a bit.

I hope some of this babbling is helpful.

Quote from: karsthotep on Nov 26, 2017, 06:34 pm
Of course you can swing on buy for a look Dino my man, It would be a pleasure.

Thank you so much, Karst! It will be a while, but like I mentioned, I'll give you plenty of notice the next time we plan to be in the Fredericksburg area!

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

karsthotep

Arggghhhh, curse your logic,  yes you are probably right would be best to do wheels.
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

karsthotep

Jan 26, 2018, 01:00 pm #79 Last Edit: Jan 26, 2018, 02:39 pm by karsthotep
Things have been pretty cold here the last few months so work has been on semi-hiatus.  Warmer weather is on the horizon though as is work on the console.   I have not stopped in planning and superficial work on it however. I have started collecting parts that I am going to need for the control panels once the panel table portion is complete.  With Tony's great plans and direct input (Big thanks to Tony for the help) I have had 13DoctorWho (Jason)  model up some of the items needed and he has posted them on shapeways.   I went ahead and started ordering parts that I need,  this first batch was to see what the quality was like, and I have to say I am very impressed.   The details are sharp,  the pieces are light but very sturdy.  Some clean up is required (IE: sanding, some filling) to remove the print lines, but really very little is required to get these looking like they came out of the TARDIS shipyards.   I ordered one twist handle, one piano key, and one Demat lever housing.   I'll be ordering more now that I know the quality as I'll need about 2 more of each of those.  He also has the housing for the telepathic circuits.  

IMG_0428.jpg

  I do have a question here for some of our wood working pro's.  For the internal panel structure I will need to cut the internal dividers at a taper.  I would really prefer not to free hand this with a circular handsaw (Even using a fence).  What is the best method for repeated uniform cuts for this section?   Do I need to get a taper Jig?   I have done some youtubing and have an idea of the route to go, but would like to hear from the wood working experts on this.  

Thanks all,
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

Scarfwearer

I'd screw another piece of wood to the workpiece at the appropriate angle and distance to use as a fence, and use the handheld.
You could do the same thing and push it all through the table saw, but the handheld would probably be easier.
If you draw a cut line on the workpiece first you'll know whether you've stayed on course.

karsthotep

That is what I typically do apart from screwing down the fence I usually clamp it, but screwing is a good idea for added strength.

  Other methods? anyone? 
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

lespaceplie

Sounds like a tilting arbor table saw is in order, but it's an investment.

troughtonstrousers

Afternoon dear chap
The build is looking amazing thus far so bravo, with the controls you have bought from shapeways which are not cheap! I know have them on mine ( see my build)
Why not make a mould and cast in resin? It's dead cheap and very strong
TT

karsthotep

I am toying with that idea, its been a while since I have done casting, but its a possibility.
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

karsthotep

Quote from: lespaceplie on Jan 26, 2018, 08:20 pm
Sounds like a tilting arbor table saw is in order, but it's an investment.


  tablesaw is already in the garage :),    I think I am probably going to end up going with using a table saw taper jig.    I have watched several video's on their use, and they are not very expensive and it seems to me a straightforward solution. 
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

karsthotep

Casting the smaller pieces would not be a big deal, done those before,  for the large one as its hollow what would be the best method for that? create a two part mold?    This is the underside.

IMG_0429.jpg
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

davidnagel

Quote from: karsthotep on Jan 26, 2018, 09:05 pm
Casting the smaller pieces would not be a big deal, done those before,  for the large one as its hollow what would be the best method for that? create a two part mold?    This is the underside.

IMG_0429.jpg


I say refer to Other Dave's Baker console build, he did the same - as you may well have known - and just used a single piece mould for his.
Kind Regards,

David

www.spiffinglyniceguy.co.uk

troughtonstrousers

Yes yes David is right and beat me to it

galacticprobe

Jan 27, 2018, 07:23 pm #89 Last Edit: Jan 27, 2018, 07:32 pm by galacticprobe
Quote from: davidnagel on Jan 27, 2018, 01:43 pm
I say refer to Other Dave's Baker console build...


Just to make it easier to find what David is referencing (because there are two topics for Other Dave's Tom Baker console: one for the console and one for the controls), here's the post showing the larger lever housing and its mould: http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=7542.0msg95261#msg95261. There's another post on his mould here (http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=7542.0msg96119#msg96119) where he talks about using a "shrinking" silicone because his console isn't full-size, but the principle should be the same. (Yeah, I know all of these say "Other Dave's Tom Baker Console", but trust me, the links go to different posts in his diary... all except for this one below.)

You can look through his entire topic here: http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=7542.0.

One thing you could do is set up some cross-beams on your mould form (the box you'll be putting the lever housing in when you pour the silicone around it) to keep the hollow lever housing from floating like a small boat. One cross-beam at each end should do it; they'll hold the housing level with the top of the form, and as long as the lever housing doesn't touch the bottom (letting it float a little to get the silicone a good thickness at what would be the top of the arch), you can pour the silicone in and let it fill the form box until it gets to the top. (Just don't let it overflow through the lever slot and fill the housing.)

When the silicone sets, you should have a nice firm mould to cast housings from. The castings will be solid, but they'll last forever and you'll still have your original just in case you need a replacement lever housing, and your mould has gone wonky for some reason.

I hope this makes sense... and helps a little.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"