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Karsten's Kenneth Sharp Console

Started by karsthotep, Mar 25, 2017, 06:47 pm

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tony farrell

Karst, imagine this next 'sentence' read in Patrick Troughton's voice - it is, after all, a direct quote from him speaking in The Three Doctors:

"Oh n-n-no, n-no, no, no!"

You simply cannot activate the Pertwee Tardis Console's dematerialisation/rematerialisation sequence in that way! Completely unacceptable Karst - what are you thinking?! 

To say nothing of the temporal instability you'd cause, this is simply not the way team Delgado/Pertwee did it. :)

Go and stand on the naughty step immediately and - after I let you off it - come and speak to me!  Read this next bit out loud whilst looking at my avatar: "I will obey you. I will obey you!"  ;D

Volpone

Quote from: rassilonsrod on May 02, 2020, 08:55 pm
Quote from: Scarfwearer on May 02, 2020, 07:41 pm
This is looking amazing! You're at least going to want some roundel wallpaper for a backdrop, no?


Given the quality of this build, I think the wallpaper roundels is selling our Mr Karsten rather short ;)

OK.  Hear me out:  We're going to need a bunch of salad bowls.  Big salad bowls.
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

d33j r093r5

Quote from: Volpone on May 03, 2020, 02:07 am

OK.  Hear me out:  We're going to need a bunch of salad bowls.  Big salad bowls.



I know what you're thinking  :D  ;D  ;)  ...  and I like it (see http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=6249 ). But it rather depends on which story Karsten is modelling the console after. There were a few slight variations on the Sharp console as our good friend Tony can attest to  :) ...
ERROR READING DRIVE C: (A)BORT, (R)ETRY, (F)AIL (I)GNORE?

Rassilons Rod

Quote from: d33j r093r5 on May 03, 2020, 06:48 am
But it rather depends on which story Karsten is modelling the console after.


For some reason, I have half a memory of Karsten talking about Day of the Daleks.... I may be wrong....
In the cities in the streets there's a tension you can feel,
The breaking strain is fast approaching, guns and riots.
Politicians gamble and lie to save their skins,
And the press get fed the scapegoats,
Public Enema Number One.

Volpone

Going slightly off topic, the thing that floors me most may be that I can't tell the VR build someone did from the physical photos.  I don't know if subject matter, lighting, or camera resolution are what does it--probably a bit of all 3--but looking at the most recent photos, I'd have sworn they were that 3d model someone did. 
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

tony farrell

May 03, 2020, 02:24 pm #500 Last Edit: May 03, 2020, 02:27 pm by Tony Farrell
That, my dear Volpone, is because they're twins!

http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=9736

and both twins appear here together as well:

http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=10066.msg121963#msg121963  (follow the link from the post) ;)

karsthotep

Thanks all again for the great comments.  I am really at this stage going for the first iteration of the console, so that would be the the Claws of Axos.   The cleanest version of the console without all the fuse stickers and do nothing gauges.   One day I may add a few of them but for now this will be the clean console as first used.   

   I would love to use the 3 smaller levers to activate the demat process but I am honestly not sure how to do that.  The mini toggle switches are rated for 125 Volts so I could run current through them with no issues, the problem lies with the bulbs which are 6 volt bulbs. Its beyond my skill, at least right now, on how to wire it up so a switch will light the bulb and activate at the two different voltages.   Any suggestions, plans etc would be greatly appreciated.   The easier option for me was to use the two larger toggles on panel 1 to activate the lights and the time rotor and use the smaller levers to just activate the 3 lights.   I am open to advice/suggestions.   

Thanks for all the kind comments about the quality,  there are many parts that I am not happy with but as I have said before, i'm not a wood worker and this is my first attempt at something like this.    Overall though I think its not too shabby and probably better built than the original so for that I am happy. 

Karst
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

russellsuthern

May 03, 2020, 04:31 pm #502 Last Edit: May 03, 2020, 04:31 pm by russellsuthern
Karst,
You are too modest, buddy...

Your work is awesome!!

Russell

moonbeam

Hi Karst,

It's looking really amazing, the quality of the workmanship is top notch !

hartnell_era_builder

Quote from: karsthotep on May 03, 2020, 04:20 pm
   I would love to use the 3 smaller levers to activate the demat process but I am honestly not sure how to do that.  The mini toggle switches are rated for 125 Volts so I could run current through them with no issues, the problem lies with the bulbs which are 6 volt bulbs. Its beyond my skill, at least right now, on how to wire it up so a switch will light the bulb and activate at the two different voltages.   Any suggestions, plans etc would be greatly appreciated.   The easier option for me was to use the two larger toggles on panel 1 to activate the lights and the time rotor and use the smaller levers to just activate the 3 lights.   I am open to advice/suggestions.   


Could you wire up the Light switch on the same panel to light up the rotor and then the 3 toggles to activate the motor using a raspberry pi to code a sequence for the toggles to say if all the toggles have been toggled activate the motor for the rotor?

Just a thought. Dont know if it will work because I am not an expert on these things.

Nathan

karsthotep

Oh I am sure that arduino or Raspberry pi could both do the job,    I have seen video's on it.  I wouldn't even know where to begin though with coding it or buying the correct shield needed and how to wire it all up.   A bit beyond me I am afraid, not without me taking a year or more off and doing that instead of this build.   The code that i have done so far from the LED sequence has been backwards engineering and finding code online and its a lot simpler  wiring wise.    Good idea, but without more info or how to on tips I can't see myself going that route.

Karst
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

Scarfwearer

I made good use of relays for my console. They're simple to understand and wire, and can do a lot. With several wired in parallel you could switch multiple circuits.

fivefingeredstyre

exactly how I would do it... Nice and simple and it separates all the different voltages.

karsthotep

What type of relay would I need to allow for the mini switch to pas the 110v for the motor and activate the 6volt lamp when switched?

Karst
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

karsthotep

I got a couple of knobs today, i'll be doing the prep work on them this weekend.  The Red base knob only needs the cap done in silver.

IMG_2128.jpg

Karst
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"