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Karsten's Kenneth Sharp Console

Started by karsthotep, Mar 25, 2017, 06:47 pm

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galacticprobe

Apr 04, 2017, 04:26 am #15 Last Edit: Apr 04, 2017, 04:27 am by galacticprobe
Quote from: Tony Farrell on Apr 03, 2017, 01:11 pm
...the plinth's dimensions include the metal trim. Clearly, your timber framework will need to be fractionally smaller to account for the width of the metal trim. In the UK, the trim is available in 0.0625" thickness (1/16th of an inch) but I don't know if that thickness is available in the USofA. Therefore how much you have to allow for the thickness of the trim will be something you will need to determine.


Or, for the more measurementally-daft like me, one could always try that chrome-like metal-looking tape that's paper thin, and used in some places instead of standard duct tape. Something like that could eliminate the need for shaving the ends of the fins to accommodate actual metal trim. (I have seen sheet metal in the US that's about 1/32nd of an inch, but you'd still have to bend that around the tight corner of the fin, and still account for its thickness.)

That chrome-like "duct" tape might at least be one option to consider. We've seen others use it on their prop builds and it looks just like chromed metal, so it should work well for the trim on the fins.

Just a thought.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

karsthotep

Yes, that is a potential temp solution,  I have been looking for extruded aluminum trim and they do have it in several sizes.  I just need to measure and see if any of them will work for me.  I might have to think up some other option if they don't have a size that will work.  I have some thoughts on that but will be working on the main structure before I get to that. 
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

karsthotep

Apr 09, 2017, 07:40 pm #17 Last Edit: Apr 10, 2017, 03:18 am by Theta Sigma
Today was a good day for progress,  I was able to get my fins recut to the correct 8 inches and got some assembly done.  I did get one half fin in place on the outer edge.  I am probably not going to get to this next week as I need to get some actual house projects going that I have been neglecting for my toy, so it may be another 2 weeks before I start on the 2nd half,  I may sneak in a bit of work we'll see.  

First shot of the two halves for the fins ( speaking of fins, how deep did everyone cut their grooves that fit the under panel angled fins.  I did 2 inches in by 4 inches down,  is that right?  Here is a picture of the fin's angled cut.

IMG_0137.JPG

As I stated I am attempting to build this just like they did the original Here is a close up of the bottom of the plinth.

IMG_0138.JPG

First fin attached

IMG_0142.JPG

second fin attached and the cross brace.  

IMG_0146.JPG

In the above shot I also have the base glued to the 2nd sheet of 1/2 plywood.  



That's all for this weekend,  later everyone

Karst
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

karsthotep

Apr 09, 2017, 07:42 pm #18 Last Edit: Apr 09, 2017, 07:51 pm by karsthotep
gahhh, sorry about the pictures,  I need to adjust these for better viewing my apologies i'll get that fixed. How do I rotate these in the posts?
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

Theta Sigma

Apr 10, 2017, 03:23 am #19 Last Edit: Apr 10, 2017, 03:24 am by Theta Sigma
I fixed them for you.  You need to remove the Exif Orientation tag from the jpg files before uploading them.  I use a tool called "JPEG Autorotate" to remove the Exif Orientation tag and permanently orient the pictures the way they are supposed to be.

Nice job so far by the way!
"I just put 1.795372 & 2.204628 together." - 4th Doctor

galacticprobe

Apr 10, 2017, 05:59 am #20 Last Edit: Apr 10, 2017, 06:05 am by galacticprobe
Karst, another way to make sure your photos post upright is to open them on a computer (laptop or desktop) using a simple photo editor - even Paint will work for this - and if they're sideways, use the IMAGE>ROTATE RIGHT (or LEFT), then SAVE AS... click SAVE or OK, then either YES or OK when it asks if you want to overwrite the existing file. That will also remove the Exif Orientation tag Kev mentioned.

(Do the "SAVE AS..." and overwrite even if the pic is upright on your computer. I think it's also what Bill "the Doctor" Rudloff (DoctorWho8) referred to as setting the metadata. I've had pics look upright on my computer and then post sideways. So I tried Bill's idea above and it worked. Pics posted upright.)

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

Davros Skaro

I always use the software "ACDSEE" to check my pics before posting & that too has the edit function to rotate pics.

Chris.
Chris.

karsthotep

I had not checked them before i posted to see their orientation so I will do that next time.  Rookie mistake since I am in IT.  :P

Hey anyone on this,   For the notches in the front of the fins what should those be?  I have a 2 inch deep by 4 inches on mine, is that correct?
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

tony farrell

Apr 10, 2017, 02:21 pm #23 Last Edit: Apr 10, 2017, 02:24 pm by Tony Farrell
Hi Karsten, I see you've sent me the exact same question by e-mail as well. Rather, than replying twice, I'll try to help here - if that's okay?  ;)

As regards the height of your cut for the fin insert (notch), I agree that 4" is more-or-less spot on. The reason I state "more-or-less" is because as I stated before ALL my dimensions include the metal trims. The exact position of your cuts will, therefore, be determined by the gauge (thickness) of the metal trim you choose.

On the Pertwee version of the Console, the makers (Magna Dove AKA Magna Models) used metal trims which were an eighth of an inch thick. (As I stated before, in the UK you can get trims in various thicknesses down to a sixteenth of an inch; I don't know the thicknesses available in the USA.)

Therefore the exact dimensions of your cuts will be dependent upon the thickness of the trim you choose. There is no escaping this fact: The thicker the trim you choose, the greater the depths of your cuts. Buy your trim first, otherwise you'll be forever sanding the cuts down to get everything to fit!  :)

This photograph should help. It was taken during the Console's refit immediately prior to the recording of The Time Monster and nicely shows the position of the fin inserts (notches). The second thing to note is that the metal trim around the Console's fascia (what some people call the 'belt') is actually 'L' shaped and is an eighth of an inch thick. On my plans I have stated the height of the fascia as 3" BUT, this figure includes the metal trim. Thus, the timber framework is an eighth of an inch less than the three inches stated on my plans.

If you choose an identical metal trim for the fascia, you have to add the eighth of an inch into your calculations for the height of the notch you are cutting. So, 4" becomes 4.125". If, however, you use a flat metal trim for the fascia (as opposed to an 'L' shaped trim), then you can ignore the eighth of an inch and make your cut for the fin insert/notch 4" tall.

So, as I say, you need to decide what metal trims you are going to use first and then adjust your timber cuts accordingly.

console split down.jpg

This is a large picture and is therefore best viewed in a separate tab using the 'magnifying glass'.

T

karsthotep

ahh, I see what you mean,   and thanks for that information.  greatly appreciated Tony
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

karsthotep

Well after several weeks of crappy weather, a family trip and house painting, I finally dedicated a full weekend to the build.  I had to redo my first half I had completed as I had,  for some uknown reason, decided to "eyeball" a particular part which threw off the entire measurements on the build.  Having already nailed and glued it, the only option was to start over.   The one good thing is that I was able to get the main plinth structure completed in assembly line fashion, measureing at least half a dozen times before actually cutting, then remeasuring after my cut to ensure it all fit.  I am pretty pleased with the progress thus far and will be working more this weekend.  So here we go with the pictures
 
  All parts cut that I needed,  I did all cutting on Saturday, all cross supports, base, fins, etc.
IMG_0149.JPG

all my fins

IMG_0151.JPG

On sunday assembly began.  I had to cut the notches for the fin uprights that morning but after that was done assembly began.

getting ready to glue and nail the first substructure of the plinth center. 

IMG_0150.JPG

Fins starting to come together and the support cross members.
IMG_0152.JPG


  And the result after 2 full days of work.
IMG_0153.JPG

  This weekend I am getting the bottom U-channel for the base and cutting that as I need that in place before i can cut the small trapezoids that butt up against them. 

  I am going to need to get a few more tools this weekend for my work,  namely a new mitre saw and metal blade, and my air compressor seems to be on the way out, so unfortunately I will need a new one of those soon too,  :(.  thanks for watching my build.
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

Other Dave


karsthotep

  I ordered 12 of these thin magnet latches from wood worker express online, 1 for the top and the bottom of each door.  I'll be building a small lip just for the magnet to seat in so all you see is the metal strip when the door is off.   

GBUGRWRPCWZZ-07.jpg

  For the U channel, I had to have the fin U-channel custom made from a local fabrication shop.  Cost was not bad for 6 pieces for the upright fins.   I can use stock u-channel for the base as I used 3/4 inch plywood, but as I went with half inch plywood on the uprights rather than 3/8ths the thickness ended up being just shy of 1 inch as I couldn't find any lumber yards that had true 3/8ths in stock and they would only order in bulk.  This is a thin aluminum and the inner dimension is 1 inch and the length of each leg is 1 inch, so in the end the dimensions will be correct and it will look the part. 
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

karsthotep

while I am in a bit of a  holding pattern waiting for some build items to arrive I wanted to make a post on the below item.  Does anyone know if this is a found item?  To me it looks like a plastic storage bin of some sort with open boxes, however i have spoken to a few people who see it as being a closed off box meant to represent a keyboard.  Has anyone identified this?  Are they open boxes as I am seeing or is it a trick of the light?  The item in question is circled.  You can also see it as being all black in the Pyramids of Mars.  Here it has silver accents.

097InvasionofTime0003.jpg
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

No More

Quote from: karsthotep on May 23, 2017, 02:53 pm
o me it looks like a plastic storage bin of some sort with open boxes, however i have spoken to a few people who see it as being a closed off box meant to represent a keyboard.  Has anyone identified this?  Are they open boxes as I am seeing or is it a trick of the light?  The item in question is circled.  You can also see it as being all black in the Pyramids of Mars.  Here it has silver accents.


Looking at the reference thread (http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=1105.0) in almost all of the pictures on the first page it looks to me like a white plastic grating set atop the angled box, and you can see through to what's under it (the bottom of the box).  Almost like a cheap and cheerful way of providing a sort of grid over whatever's underneath.  See for example http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?action=dlattach;k=-170;topic=1105.0;attach=26028;image and http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?action=dlattach;k=-170;topic=1105.0;attach=26024;image

However... in a couple of the other shots it looks like there's a solid white blanking plate under the grid, at the top of the angled box covering up the otherwise hollow interior:
http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?action=dlattach;k=-170;topic=1105.0;attach=26034;image
I believe that's the same panel (though not necessarily in the same location), but that item does look so different that I'm inclined to suggest there isn't a single "right" answer, and it may depend what season you want to recreate (or what looks best to you...)