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Karsten's Kenneth Sharp Console

Started by karsthotep, Mar 25, 2017, 06:47 pm

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karsthotep

Mar 25, 2017, 06:47 pm Last Edit: Mar 25, 2017, 06:50 pm by karsthotep
Hello everyone,

I have been a long time member here and some of you may be familiar with my custom console build and my Brachacki inspired fiberglass TARDIS in the galleries.  Well my disappointment in never finishing the custom console has spurred me to attempt again.  This time in a much more phased, planned and more patient approach.  Inspired by Tony Farrell's research and diagrams on the Kenneth Sharp console, and it also being the one I remember the most from my childhood I decided upon that style.   I reached out to Tony, who I have to thank here for already providing me with help and blueprints for this endeavor.  This is not going to be a fast build,  I am taking this slow so as not to become overwhelmed with the project and to stay on target.  

  One thing I am not going to do this time around is attempt to complete this build in a bubble,  I am going to be reaching out....probably a lot <lol> for advice/help on how I may need to approach something in its construction, maybe I am not clear on a measurement etc.  You get my drift.  

   I will also be building this as closely as I can to how the actual Kenneth Sharp console was constructed with the intent that in the end, whenever that may be,  It will be transportable in an easy fashion.   Again, thanks to Tony on this for his exploded view of the console helps with a lot of the visualization for what I am going to be doing.  

 Today the task began,  I went to the good old home depot and made my first purchases,  a brand new table saw, circular saw and of course protective equipment,  I don't need my tinnitus any worse than it already is.  I am starting from the ground up (obviously)  with the plinth, starting with the very bottom.   My plan is using 1/2 inch sanded plywood for the majority of the buld.  I am going to be sandwiching much of the plywood after cutting so as get the angles correct I need for the fins, etc.  You will see what I mean as I progress.  The last time around I way over engineered the console, it was heavy, unwieldy, and portions were just not very well constructed.  Additionally I clad everything in hardboard, having used a very low grade quality of plywood.  This was a mistake and I ended up spending more in the long run, hence my choice to go with a higher quality sanded plywood that I can paint directly rather than trying to hide under cladding.  

  I look forward to sharing my progress over the next months.  Some pictures to get things started.    console exploded for TB trial jpeg.jpgconsole master2.pngIMG_3237.JPG
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

Davros Skaro

Looking forward to see this come along. Good idea with the ear protection too. :-)

Chris.
Chris.

13drwho

I'm always excited to see more classic consoles. I can't wait to see more!!

galacticprobe

Mar 26, 2017, 05:30 am #3 Last Edit: Mar 26, 2017, 05:30 am by galacticprobe
Like everyone else has said, Karst, I'm looking forward to seeing your old girl come together. With Tony's measurements you should end up with a first-rate console. And it's good to see you back in action again after so long!

(And with The Evil One having graduated from UMW in 2015 and now working in Japan, the wife and I don't get up Fredericksburg way much, so I'm sorry we missed out on getting together when we had more of an opportunity.)

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

karsthotep

thanks guys for the encouragement right out of the gate.  I got some wood purchased for the start of the plinth and got the table saw assembled.     IMG_3242.JPG
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

Other Dave

Awesome!  Good luck to you!  Small piece of advice - I hope it's not too late - don't buy that "Sanded Plywood" from Home Depot. It's crap!  Looks nice, but it splinters like crazy when trying to cut it.   Go to Lowe's and buy the Birch plywood.  It's smooth and nice and has very little splintering!   As I am building the same thing but at 85% scale, I hope to pass along any tips I can!

- Other Dave

karsthotep

DOH..now you tell me yes I already purchased 3 pieces of their half sheets, no worries though I'll keep that in mind for the rest, This is the very bottom which is going to be covered by aluminum U molding anyway so if there is some splintering It can be hidden.  I need to pick up the correct plywood blade on Thursday so I can get cutting, so hopefully that will reduce the chances of splintering. 
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

Davros Skaro

If you haven't already done so, get yourself a fine tooth tungsten tip blade (if not too expensive) they give a better cut.

Chris.
Chris.

karsthotep

Mar 30, 2017, 07:16 pm #8 Last Edit: Mar 30, 2017, 07:22 pm by karsthotep
I see what you meant on the splintering.  I'll get the birch plywood for the rest.  Regardless I made my first cuts.  I was ultra precise to make sure angles and measurements were perfect and it paid off.


B70D55FD-C8EB-4711-8607-403613589792.JPG
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

karsthotep

Apr 02, 2017, 07:56 pm #9 Last Edit: Apr 02, 2017, 07:56 pm by karsthotep
I have a bit of a dilenma, I seem to have some alignment issues with the fines and the top horizontal struts of 15 inches wide.   I have my angles spot on,  I have the fin at a depth of 6.5 inches, but when I put the cross struts up the fins don't align with the end of the board where they should  If they were 8 inches they would be perfect, but of course the plans say 6.5 so something is not right. I checked my lower section its perfect 48 inches tip to tip.

 Input appreciated.
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

karsthotep

Apr 02, 2017, 09:24 pm #10 Last Edit: Apr 09, 2017, 07:46 pm by karsthotep
Ok, I think i got figured out what I needed.   My fin depth is going to be closer to 7 3/4. I measured everything again and lined it up and my measurements are good, my fin is the issue.   I mistakenly thought that the 6.5 inches was the depth of the fin, that is the angled piece that is at the bottom of the plinth.  So I have to redo all my fins which is too bad because they were coming out perfect, good news is that I have it down now so should be able to get them all done next weekend.   I did complete part of the horizontal supports for the top of the fins.   So not a complete waste, oh and I got got a second set of panels for the bottom of the plinth so I can create the "hidden" area,  where casters go.   IMG_0135.JPG
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

tony farrell

Apr 02, 2017, 10:44 pm #11 Last Edit: Apr 02, 2017, 10:47 pm by Tony Farrell
Quote from: karsthotep on Apr 02, 2017, 07:56 pm
I have a bit of a dilenma, I seem to have some alignment issues with the fines and the top horizontal struts of 15 inches wide.   I have my angles spot on,  I have the fin at a depth of 6.5 inches, but when I put the cross struts up the fins don't align with the end of the board where they should  If they were 8 inches they would be perfect, but of course the plans say 6.5 so something is not right. I checked my lower section its perfect 48 inches tip to tip.

 Input appreciated.


The plans I sent you don't say 6.5" for the depth of the fins at all.

The 6.5" refers to the depth of the sloping sections at the bottom of the plinth - the depth of the fins run along the hypotenuse of the triangle which is formed at the corners! Obviously therefore, the fins are deeper than 6.5"!

Again, to repeat what I stated in my e-mail to you, all the drawings are to scale - 12 pixels to the inch. All you need to do is open them in Microsoft Paint and count the pixels.

T

karsthotep

Hey Tony,

It was my misunderstanding what the 6.5 was referring to in your diagram.  I had assumed it was fin length when I saw it.  I attempted the pixel counting but having never done it before wasn't sure on how.  I assume you layout the grid in paint and then count those? 

  Regardless, I was able to do some measuring on the actual plinth to figure out what I need going forward, so this weekend I should have more to show for all the cutting I did.
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

tony farrell

No, you don't need grid lines. All you do is open the diagram in Microsoft Paint. Along the top of the toolbar, click on the line-drawing icon. Then select the thinnest line possible (1 pixel). then draw the line at the point you want to measure from and look at its starting position at the bottom left of the screen (the position is expressed width first x height second - so just like the co-ordinates on a map).

Now draw another line at the point you want to measure to and make a note of these 'co-ordinates'.

The length of the item you want to measure is given by taking away your second co-ordinate from the first. Divide the result by 12 and you have your length in inches.

I've drawn the Console from both a three-sided view and a two-sided view for you; therefore every dimension is available.

In the case of the length of the fin, by following the pixel-count methodology, you would get 95 pixels. 95/12 = 7.91667 inches (8" to one decimal place). 8" is less than a tenth of an inch different from the theoretical figure of 7.91667" - you're going to 'lose' that difference in the width of your saw-blade cut.

I've added the 'missing' dimension for you:

console master2.png

T

P.S., As I also said in my e-mail to you, the plinth's dimensions include the metal trim. Clearly, your timber framework will need to be fractionally smaller to account for the width of the metal trim. In the UK, the trim is available in 0.0625" thickness (1/16th of an inch) but I don't know if that thickness is available in the USofA. Therefore how much you have to allow for the thickness of the trim will be something you will need to determine.

karsthotep

Thanks for the detailed explanation Tony, I get the picture now and thanks for the update diagram.  I am on track again now. 

 
I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"