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Capaldi tardis

Started by brenk9carter, Jan 09, 2017, 03:36 pm

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Volpone

Yep. This is going to be one of those builds that I'm glad my *ahem* "craftsmanship" won't be judged against.  I'm pretty sure I used some duct tape at some point on my build. 
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

brenk9carter

Jan 19, 2017, 09:15 pm #31 Last Edit: Jan 20, 2017, 01:12 am by brenk9carter
I've glued up the cornerposts and taken off the excess then hand planed down the sides to make it all flush
Another thing that happened is mr mcgoo sent me his excellent 3d model that he made so that I can take some extra measements from that.

the cornerposts don't look as tall as they really are when they are on the floor.
IMG_8311.JPG

i just propped them up to see how it looks when the corner posts are put on the base.  I think it looks quite good really considering the ends haven't been trimmed up yet.
IMG_8330.JPG

i have also started work on the parts that go in the bottom of the cornerposts that hold them up but i haven't got any pics of them yet.
Bren

brenk9carter

Quote from: volpone on Jan 19, 2017, 04:49 am
Yep. This is going to be one of those builds that I'm glad my *ahem* "craftsmanship" won't be judged against.  I'm pretty sure I used some duct tape at some point on my build. 


Well you're craftsmanship ended with a pretty decent looking Tardis and a bit of duct tape never hurt anyone.
Bren

brenk9carter

Jan 21, 2017, 05:08 pm #33 Last Edit: Jan 21, 2017, 06:10 pm by brenk9carter
More progress has been happening, for a start i have trimmed all the corner posts to length and made them all square on the ends.

The stubs (for lack of a better word) have been glued up and test fitted in the cornerposts and they all fit in rather well.
IMG_8342.JPG

i have also constructed the caps that go on top of the cornerposts and they all seem to fit quite well.
i made them by cutting the rebate out with the table saw so that they sit in the top of the posts.
IMG_8345.JPG
IMG_8348.JPG

to glue them in i put the caps on the floor and put the cornerposts on top of them and just let the weight of the posts hold them on.
IMG_8350.JPG

i also decided to make some small caps for the stubs to help stop dampness from going inside the cornerposts, its just a square that's sat on the bottom of the stubs as these aren't going to be seen they don't have to be perfect.
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loads of things gluing
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Thats all for today. The base will be finished up next and the stubs will be glued and screwed in place, then I'll start work on the sign boxes.
Bren

Bob's your Uncle

Beautiful work and fantastic photos, but I don't see enough sawdust. My shop was buried in the stuff by this point.  ;D

Can't wait to see more.
Greg.
"Listen. All I have to do is dive into another dimension, find the time traveler, help her escape the monster, get home before the entire dimension collapses, and Bob's your Uncle."

'Hide'  S07 E09

Davros Skaro

Quote from: brenk9carter on Jan 21, 2017, 05:08 pm
i also decided to make some small caps for the stubs to help stop dampness from going inside the cornerposts, its just a square that's sat on the bottom of the stubs as these aren't going to be seen they don't have to be perfect.
IMG_8360.JPG



I don't know what you do or how much you have worked with timber, but I use to work for a furniture manufacturer here in Australia, working with solid pine (radiata pine that is) & we wouldn't seal off ends like that. we were told timber needs to breath & if it can't, then mold/damp rot can start to form & timber can rot on you. Thinking your keeping damp out can also mean your keeping damp in too. If it were me I would leave the stubs open so it can breath, but that's just my thoughts. I like what you've done so far & look forward to the rest.

Chris.
Chris.

brenk9carter

Quote from: Bob's your Uncle on Jan 22, 2017, 02:52 am
Beautiful work and fantastic photos, but I don't see enough sawdust. My shop was buried in the stuff by this point.  ;D

Can't wait to see more.
Greg.


Thanks, there definitely has been enough sawdust but i like to clean up as i go along and everything in there does have a good layer of the stuff on them
Bren

brenk9carter

Quote from: Davros Skaro on Jan 22, 2017, 03:34 am

I don't know what you do or how much you have worked with timber, but I use to work for a furniture manufacturer here in Australia, working with solid pine (radiata pine that is) & we wouldn't seal off ends like that. we were told timber needs to breath & if it can't, then mold/damp rot can start to form & timber can rot on you. Thinking your keeping damp out can also mean your keeping damp in too. If it were me I would leave the stubs open so it can breath, but that's just my thoughts. I like what you've done so far & look forward to the rest.

Chris.


thanks for that little bit of info, they're not completely sealed up as there is a bit of a gap down the sides to allow for a bit of movement but i think ill drill a hole in the stubs caps to let it breath.
Bren

Volpone

I didn't want to say anything, because...you can make the best possible decisions, based on what you know and the conclusions you make from it--and still wind up completely and totally wrong.  And you only find out by doing.  When I did my build, I deliberately didn't make a lot of holes in the box--I didn't even cut windows, just painted the wood grey and then put the fake windows over that--with a big part of the intent being that it would be more watertight and more structurally sound.  However I did allow for some ventilation by having the floor ventilated. 

I also didn't cut real windows so I could stack junk all the way to the ceiling (it was a storage shed) and in thinking lack of sunlight would discourage any growth of vegetation inside.  But you know what likes dark damp places?  Mold.  And in spite of my best waterproofing plans, water got inside.  Partly because my construction wasn't that great but I suspect condensation also played a big role.  I have a big, fairly dark (blue) structure, it heats up in the sun and then cools off at night.  So in spite of what I thought were good decisions, I may have actually made the problems I was trying to solve worse

Over the years I added more and more ventilation and put in real windows to let in sunlight.  Because it was impossible for me to keep out the water so vents let it escape again instead of being trapped there.  And sunlight helped it to dry out inside, reduced condensation (I think), and seems to have licked the mold problems. 

So, long story short, I thought allowing the posts to breathe made sense, but I've been wrong so often that who am I to chime in.  And my hope that these comments give you some considerations as you make decisions on your build.  And if you make the wrong decision, you can always change it later.  I did. 
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

brenk9carter

I suppose when its outside it will always be a battle to slow down rot but I suppose I can always plug up the holes if I need to.
Bren

brenk9carter

Jan 22, 2017, 10:07 pm #40 Last Edit: Jan 22, 2017, 10:16 pm by brenk9carter
Today has been a good day in the world of tardis building for me as i managed to get the base fully constructed.

So today started with the caps on top of the cornerposts being cleaned up and planed down to size
IMG_8363.jpg
The stubs got glued and screwed into the corners on the base and the cornerposts were test fitted.

IMG_8370.JPG

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I made the frame for the floor to sit on and attached it to the rest of the base.

IMG_8377.JPG
and last but not least i made the floor and glued it in place.

IMG_8378.JPG
tomorrow I will fill any holes and prep the base for the primer.
Bren

Davros Skaro

WOW, that's coming on nicely, good bracing/floor support, great job,

Chris.
Chris.

fivefingeredstyre

Nice work so far. It's all looking pretty sturdy. You won't regret plugging the tops of the corner posts.

If I may make a suggestion, if you are looking at having your box sited outside, you might want to think a bit about venting the floor. I've learned from bitter experience that condensation can build up between the base and the floor and cause the floor to rot after a few years.

I had to replace the floor in mine a couple of years beach as I didn't allow for this...  :-[

brenk9carter

Jan 22, 2017, 11:57 pm #43 Last Edit: Jan 22, 2017, 11:59 pm by brenk9carter
Quote from: fivefingeredstyre on Jan 22, 2017, 10:51 pm
Nice work so far. It's all looking pretty sturdy. You won't regret plugging the tops of the corner posts.

If I may make a suggestion, if you are looking at having your box sited outside, you might want to think a bit about venting the floor. I've learned from bitter experience that condensation can build up between the base and the floor and cause the floor to rot after a few years.

I had to replace the floor in mine a couple of years beach as I didn't allow for this...  :-[


yeah thanks for the tip. all of the stuff that the base is made of is tanalysed wood and the floor is proper waterproof  flooring but i suppose i could put a vent hole in the back of the floor.
Bren

superrichi1a

Looking fantastic so far! Keep it up ;)
Daaaayum I'm jealous of these new series boxes, I just love the size and boxy look! Potentially in the summer I'll join the club, what with my first build defying all expectations for how quickly a bod can deteriorate, so I'll be watching this closely!
Isn't it how ironic that we have to think of solutions out of the box, in order to build our boxes a lot of the time?