1:1 Hartnell/Troughton Console Build

[jorwick]

YIKES! Not being an electronics expert, this looks VERY complicated. I'm sure that other people would find this useful though...

Actually in this particular circumstance, I think your design with the motor is very very clever ( and looks great)  Probably not very energy efficient however ..But probably less overall effort required in fabrication than doing the timer, and on a Hartnell build I think you get extra points for doing the effect in a brutally analog way. So tis is great


.. UNTIL..

you have a lot of things where you want this sort of effect.  Then  That Timer chip  can probably drive  12-16 of the 4017 chips..  So it MAY make sense to convert over to this if you plan to have a lot of sequenced blinky-blinky stuff going on

Both of us can help you hook this stuff up and answer questions if you want to attempt it.  The Diagram makes it look much harder than it is. .

You may also want to look into some of the stuff developed for doing MAME arcades over the last few years.  There is a program called LED Blinky and  it is compatible with  a number of premade controllers.. that let you set up lots of blinky  blinky without a lot off effort.

Take a look at LED-WIZ (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=82&zenid=go785391s5jt71r5emprk3qpn2)  or Ultimarc (https://www.ultimarc.com/pacled64.html)

being the two most popular. The ultimarc is a little unique in that it uses a constant current source-  so no LED resistors required. Of course it also means you are limited in your LED choices to ones that operate well at that current. .   You can ALSO use products from either vendor  from either to actually hook up buttons  to a computer ( the computer sees them as keystrokes)  and then you could have a relatively simple program that does stuff to turn lights on/off via LED Binky or similar) so your buttons and levers could actually do things,  like activate a control, a motor, play sounds etc and not just be blinky blinky.  

These control boards  are compatible with nearly everything so you could use an old laptop or a cheap raspberry PI. ($35) and really make the whole  console appear functional as well as pretty.

There would be some programming required obviously,  but they have 9 year olds doing stuff on the PI, with dozens of  tutorials written to that age group ( so even us old farts can understand them)

And then you have folks like Dino and I  who actually have some professional knowledge and can advise about how to hook up anything special

[markofrani]

Working on the Symbolic Indicator Lamps...
I found a set of 5 vintage red glass convex signal lenses that are perfect for this. Maybe they actually used something like these for at least four of them anyway.
The bezels are laser cut acrylic with a black plastic vac-formed skin enclosing them. One of them has the thicker surround for Panel 2. Next step, painting the symbols!

[Rassilons Rod]

I'm dying to see all these amazing parts in place

[tony farrell]

Superb - as always - Jonathan!

Will you be replicating the 'Hartnell' (original) symbols or the slightly simplified 'Troughton' versions?

Also - for purely selfish reasons - would you be willing to provide slightly more detail on the motorised 'chaser light' mechanism you've used for the Movement Sensors (AKA the Telepathic Circuits)? I know these 'circuits' were never seen working during Pertwee's tenure, but for mine - and Steve's - Console build, I would really like to reproduce the effect you've so brilliantly created.

After all, they do say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!

Cheers

T

[galacticprobe]

Wow! Those indicators are simply Smurferifically brilliant! (And once again I'm finding myself a little over the tools, materials, knowledge, and talent I see at work with this build!)

(Tony... just curious, but do you and Jonathan want to use a mechanical method for making the lights inside the "Sharp" Telepathic Circuits chase around? Or would you like to give the LED Chase Lights Circuit I posted above a go to see how that compares to the mechanical method?)

Dino.

[tony farrell]

(Tony... just curious, but do you and Jonathan want to use a mechanical method for making the lights inside the "Sharp" Telepathic Circuits chase around? Or would you like to give the LED Chase Lights Circuit I posted above a go to see how that compares to the mechanical method?)
Dino.

I think you mean me and Steve!

Unlike you Dino, I'm an electrical imbecile and even though you've obviously tried to make your 'hard-wiring' explanation as clear as possible, the majority of it went over my head and, even if you tried to explain it again, the result would probably be the same: I know my limitations Dino; when it comes to matters electrical, I have to pay someone to do the work for me.

If Jonathan is willing to share what little motor he's used, where he got it and how he's mounted it inside the orange lens, this may be something that I could simply copy (after all, we're both in the UK - if Jonathan got his parts here, then I ought to be able to get them as well).

I'm a builder - I can draw and I can paint; give me a couple of sheets of MDF (and a decent saw) and I can make a Dalek. Give me a plastic tube and I can make a model spaceship but I am not an electrician.

If I can see it, I can copy it. And, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!  

T

[markofrani]

Okay Tony, here you go:

Here are the pre-wired 10mm LED's. I put eight per unit, but you could do more or less.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130860211555?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The 12V motors were from China as they were much cheaper:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221039370541?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The picture I posted previously shows the perspex mounting I built to house the motor centrally on the base plate with the lens sat above it. Within the lens, a perspex disc is attached to the motor spindle to rotate the single hole. the base plate and disc are covered in Aluminium sticky tape.

[tony farrell]

Thanks Jonathan - that will be very helpful.

T

[galacticprobe]

I think you mean me and Steve!

Why, yes; yes I do! With all of the console builds going on at the moment (two original Brachackis and two Sharps), it's hard for me to keep track of everyone's name and console. (Too many builds, not enough brain cells. Seems like I've said that a few times before.)

Unlike you Dino, I'm an electrical imbecile and even though you've obviously tried to make your 'hard-wiring' explanation as clear as possible, the majority of it went over my head and, even if you tried to explain it again, the result would probably be the same: I know my limitations Dino; when it comes to matters electrical, I have to pay someone to do the work for me.

I wouldn't refer to you as an "electrical imbecile", Tony... more of a non-electrical person. (An imbecile is one that can't be taught. You've proven your level of intelligence time and again, and I think if I could spend a few days with you - a week at the most - you'd be able to build that LED chaser circuit with no problem.)

I know that Steve and I helped hash out the wiring for the lights in the Central Column's Central Pier, so he's got some electrical skills. Maybe he can have a go at that circuit, if nothing else just for giggles when he get a chance. (It would be nice to compare it side by side with Jonathan's motor method to see the difference in performance.)

If Jonathan is willing to share what little motor he's used, where he got it and how he's mounted it inside the orange lens, this may be something that I could simply copy (after all, we're both in the UK - if Jonathan got his parts here, then I ought to be able to get them as well).

Nothing wrong with that. I was just trying to help make things more "solid state"; less chance of a mechanical breakdown.

I'm a builder - I can draw and I can paint; give me a couple of sheets of MDF (and a decent saw) and I can make a Dalek. Give me a plastic tube and I can make a model spaceship but I am not an electrician.

If I can see it, I can copy it. And, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!  

T

Imitation is indeed the sincerest form of flattery (and if the BBC looks in on us as often as we think they do, they must feel like the most flattered entity in the universe!). And the electrician bit aside, you're leagues ahead of me. (I've seen your Dalek: leagues ahead of me!)

Dino.

[tony farrell]

I know that Steve and I helped hash out the wiring for the lights in the Central Column's Central Pier, so he's got some electrical skills. Maybe he can have a go at that circuit, if nothing else just for giggles when he get a chance. (It would be nice to compare it side by side with Jonathan's motor method to see the difference in performance.)

Dino, given that Stormaggeddon was so keen on all the Bat Mobile's switches at the Virginia Comicon you went to recently, why not have a go at the Movement Sensors' chaser lights yourself?

T

[galacticprobe]

Dino, given that Stormaggeddon was so keen on all the Bat Mobile's switches at the Virginia Comicon you went to recently, why not have a go at the Movement Sensors' chaser lights yourself?

Well, the thought of doing something along those lines had crossed my mind. But firstly, he keeps the wife and I rather busy all week long (which is hell enough on my back) so when the weekend comes around, as run-down as we feel, we still have to play catch-me-up on inside and outside housework. (You don't want to know the state of the house after not doing anything during the Comicon weekend. )

Secondly, Stormy's got several "busy boxes" already with big light-up buttons that make noise or play some sort of music when he presses a button. He's constantly dashing from one to another (oh, the cacophony!), so I didn't think a silent Movement Sensor would hold his interest. (Even the blinky lights on The Evil One's earrings don't interest him because, while the lights are bright and colorful, there is no sound, and it's much more fun for him to try deafening us with those other busy boxes.)

What I should have though of before now is finding a way of throwing together some sort of (possibly hexagonal?) structure and mounting his busy boxes to that like console panels. Then he could toddle around it while he tortures our eardrums, and look like a pint-sized half-pint-sized Doctor whirling about his console! (Maybe time to look into some heavy duty cardboard?)

Dino.

[The14thDr]

What I should have though of before now is finding a way of throwing together some sort of (possibly hexagonal?) structure and mounting his busy boxes to that like console panels. Then he could toddle around it while he tortures our eardrums, and look like a pint-sized half-pint-sized Doctor whirling about his console! (Maybe time to look into some heavy duty cardboard?)

Dino.

Go on, you know you want to.

Great work on the console so far markofrani!! What with this and greggnowling's build, this version of the TARDIS console is really starting to grow on me. Can't wait to see both builds progress.

[markofrani]

Not much progress to report, but I've just finished the Movement Sensors. Here they are in action...

http://s143.photobucket.com/user/markofrani/media/MovementSensors_1_zpskuxe9bvn.mp4.html?sort=3&o=1

[davidnagel]

Looking good

[TheMasterRichman]

Its getting there I bet it's going to be the best out there, you see I'm a Hartnell console fan and seeing that I think it's going to be spot on  

- Rich