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1:1 Hartnell/Troughton Console Build

Started by markofrani, Apr 16, 2016, 07:48 am

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tony farrell

You're being too modest Jonathan!

The quality of the workmanship in your various scale model builds of the Tardis and Consoles speaks for itself.

Creating a PDF is no mean feat either - especially when you realise all the work that goes into drawing the constituent parts (allowing for the different thicknesses, working out where the best place is to create the joins, creating locating tabs and mortice and tenon joins, etc) and the skill and patience this entails.

Its a pity you can't fit in the full Console, but, if you could get it done by then, the Central Column would look really good - all lit up for Christmas; you could perch it on the end of that long workbench/treasure trove of parts that you have in that back room/Aladdin's Cave of yours!

T

galacticprobe

May 06, 2016, 04:53 am #31 Last Edit: May 06, 2016, 04:53 am by galacticprobe
Well said, Tony! (I rest my case. :))

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

greggnowling

Not too shabby mate.....not too shabby at all ;)

Gregg

Ok....bloody brilliant.

markofrani

OK, quite fiddly this one, but here's the first slide switch. I've decided to make these non-functioning for simplicity...

14.jpg

davidnagel

[insert giddy excited reaction to more exciting additions to your console here]
Regards
David

Rassilons Rod

Oh my god. Everything looks like production line pieces.  So beautiful :)
In the cities in the streets there's a tension you can feel,
The breaking strain is fast approaching, guns and riots.
Politicians gamble and lie to save their skins,
And the press get fed the scapegoats,
Public Enema Number One.

galacticprobe

May 11, 2016, 06:59 am #36 Last Edit: May 11, 2016, 07:01 am by galacticprobe
Quote from: davidnagel on May 10, 2016, 01:44 pm
[insert giddy excited reaction to more exciting additions to your console here]

Ditto!

Quote from: rassilonsrod on May 10, 2016, 02:29 pm
Oh my god. Everything looks like production line pieces.  So beautiful :)

And ditto!

(And I'm building up another ENVY! eruption at some point. ;))

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

markofrani

May 11, 2016, 07:54 pm #37 Last Edit: May 11, 2016, 07:54 pm by markofrani
Testing the light effects for one of the Movement sensors. I'm using a ring of 10mm RED LED's with a motorised rotating disc for the movement...

15.jpg16.jpg

davidnagel

May 11, 2016, 07:58 pm #38 Last Edit: May 11, 2016, 08:13 pm by davidnagel
Movement as in, the leds are stationary but the disc has a hole in it and its blocking the light?
Regards
David

markofrani

Yes, that's right. I'm trying to post a video to show it working, but I'm not having much luck.

davidnagel

May 11, 2016, 08:09 pm #40 Last Edit: May 12, 2016, 12:47 pm by davidnagel
Simple but clever idea though, I was going to get a larson scanner circuit to do most of the work...
Regards
David

markofrani

Here's the light effect in action...

http://s143.photobucket.com/user/markofrani/media/Movement%20sensors_zpsulk36m23.mp4.html?sort=3&o=1

galacticprobe

May 12, 2016, 07:43 am #42 Last Edit: May 12, 2016, 08:02 am by galacticprobe
Wow! That really captures the effect quite nicely! There is also another way of doing that without having to worry about the spinning disc, or the motor that spins the disc. Here's a circuit that's a favorite among some electronics hobbyists. It uses the bulletproof NE555 Timer Chip as the clock, and the almost bulletproof 4017 Decade Counter chip to "chase" the lights.

LED-ChaseLights.jpg
And here is the parts list for the above:
1- 555 Timer Chip (a.k.a. Integrated Circuit, or IC Chip)
1- 4017 Decade Counter IC
R- 560 Ohms (10 - one for each LED)
10- LED (red, or you can brighten it up a little with white or yellow ones)
R1, R3- 2k Ohms resistors (k=kilo-Ohms, or thousand Ohms, so 2,000 Ohms)
R2- 20k Potentiometer (speed adjust)
R4- 1k Ohms resistor (just a buffer between the 555 Pin 3 output and the 4017 Pin 14 input)
C1- 100nF capacitor (nF=nano-Farad)
C2- 100uF electrolytic capacitor (uF=micro-Farad; electrolytic means the cap is polarized, so make sure to connect the + side of the cap to the + side of the circuit; only electrolytic caps are polarized like that)
Battery or other 5 to 12-Volt power supply

The variable resistor (a.k.a. potentiometer, a.k.a. "pot" for short) controls the speed of the sequencing, or "chasing" effect. (With two Movement Sensors, you could connect that resistor up to one of the knobs on the console and adjust their speed independently.)

Here's a rough drawing of how the pins on the 555 Timer are arranged:
555TimerChip.jpg
Pretty simple; when positioning the chip so that "notch" or "dimple" is "up" as shown here, Pin 1 is always the upper left corner.

4017Pins.jpg
Here's the 4017 Decade Counter's pins. In this case, that black circle is the "dimple" I mentioned earlier, and that is the Pin 1 Locator. All chips like this (DIP - Dual In-line Pin) will have either the notch or the dimple to help locate Pin 1.

So, 10 LEDs (each) chasing around the Movement Sensors, speed adjustable, no physical moving parts.

I hope some of this is helpful.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

markofrani

YIKES! Not being an electronics expert, this looks VERY complicated. I'm sure that other people would find this useful though...

galacticprobe

May 13, 2016, 04:32 am #44 Last Edit: May 13, 2016, 04:46 am by galacticprobe
It's not really all that complicated, Jonathan, if you ignore the "labels" on some of those IC chip pins (DC Supply, Carry Out, Reset, etc.). Just wire the pin numbers to the respective resistors, capacitors, LEDs, etc., and of course the power supply. Anyplace you see a line is a wire; where there is a dot when wires cross is a connection - no dot, no connection. That large downward-pointing arrow at the bottom of the diagram represents the negative side of the power supply (goes by various names: Return, Ground, earth), and is all connected to the other side of the circuit (with the positive side being shown here at the top).

The zig zag bits are the resistors (anything with an R next to it); one resistor is adjustable for speed (R2 in this case - acts like a dimmer switch of sorts that's connected to an accelerator pedal; this one will have three leads or connections on it, but you'll only really be using two - the middle one, and one of the end ones: doesn't matter which end; there's no need to connect those two leads together like it's shown).

Anything with a "C" next to it is a capacitor, and of course the LEDs are the LEDs. There are several different models of the 4017 Decade Counter which is why there's a "b" next to the chip number on the diagram, but any 4017 will work. And if you don't see a pin number on the chip in the diagram, or you see one with nothing connecting to it, then that pin isn't used in the circuit and is just left alone.

Building the circuit is easy; in this case the actual circuit with the chips and its local components (anything that isn't the LED or the R2 adjust pot) would easily fit inside a box the size of one used for an engagement ring. Running the extra wiring to get the from the circuit board to the location of the LEDs, the speed adjust resistor (knob), and the power supply is the hard part.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"