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Norfolk U.K Capaldi Tardis

Started by alan curston, Nov 23, 2015, 09:11 am

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alan curston

Nov 23, 2015, 09:11 am Last Edit: Dec 12, 2015, 09:07 pm by alan curston
Sooo hello! I have completed the build before I start this diary and I built it through the summer months of 2015. Here is a picture of the finished box as you probably don't want to scroll through to see it. IMG_0972.JPG

alan curston

I started with the corner post in July 2015.IMG_0818.JPG
you can see using a router i made a rebate down the length of each side or the posts, and then glued, clamped and screwed them together.  IMG_0819.JPGIMG_0827.JPG
a couple of days later I routered the details around the tops of the posts.IMG_0839.JPGIMG_0838.JPG
i was pleased with them, but on more research I found the post I made were 125mm square and should have made them 150mm square :-\

alan curston

Nov 23, 2015, 10:09 am #2 Last Edit: Nov 23, 2015, 10:14 am by alan curston
I got a wall light and a candle holder to make into the roof lantern.
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Next I assembled the lantern, by dismantling the lamp and removing 2 or the 6 outer braces, and moved two of them round to have on on each corner. Then I took the top off the candle holder and removed the vent in the middle. I soldered the two halves together and soldered the top piece on and gave it all a undercoat. IMG_0817.JPG

alan curston

Nov 23, 2015, 10:18 am #3 Last Edit: Nov 23, 2015, 11:30 am by alan curston
I managed to get from Rubber Toe Replicas (The Doctor Who prop builders) a 'pull to open' door sign, it was a seconds (only a couple of flaws and loose letters)
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alan curston

Its all about that Base! so, I got some 6 X 2 cls timber, and glued it together to make timber big enough for the base. I then cut the chamfer along the top of each length. next was the mitre cuts at each end of the timbers.
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as I didn't have a chop saw big enough to cut the mitres I had to cut them by hand which caused a few problems. Firstly they were not accurate enough so there were some twists when they were connected and also I didn't check the squareness of the base so it is about 3/4" out.

Anyways, I put some other timbers across the base to allow the floor to sit on top.
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I added some timbers in the corners to allow the posts to slot in to them. I then added some ply squares into the bottom of the posts to slot into the base.
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alan curston

Sign boxes. using the measurements from the base and posts I was able to make the sign boxes.
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around the inside of the boxes I cut a groove to allow for the signs themselves. also as I am making this Tardis to be dismantle-able I attached the sign boxes with hinges with removable pins
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and had to adjust the hinges to get a good fit around each post.

alan curston

Roof!
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so I did the stepped part first. Then made a 150mm square tube to place the lantern on and then cut the 9mm ply for the roof itself.
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the inside of the roof showing the cross members and corner bracing.
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and then the little corner details
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alan curston

I ordered some 'Police public call box' signs and fitted them to keep them from getting knocked apart.
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I then made a base to attach the lantern on to so it can be removed
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Then did the details that go around the panelling on each side. There was a bit of a dilemma of which style of detail to go for, either a chamfer, a rounded detail or the rebate. I opted for the rebate as I'm trying to make a Tardis which resembles the promo photos from series 8 with the t-rex skull.
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alan curston

main Panelling. I used some 20mm redwood timber as it was the right thickness and it is a bit easier to work with when machining out. I put a chamfer along the upright stiles, and then cut the horizontal rails to fit over the top. then put the chamfer on the horizontal styles depending on weather they were going at the top middle or bottom of the section. Firstly I glued the centre styles to the ply, and then attached the horizontal styles with a spacer stick to keep them the same. they were all glued and screwed and then I attached outer rails, clamping them up to get a tight fit.
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I then repeated this for the other 2 side panels.
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alan curston

Next, doors. I made them from some 96mm by 45mm timber for the upright rails, with a rebate down the middle to allow the 6mm ply to insert in them. then cut the horizontal styles which were 10mm shorter than the ones on the sides. All glued and screwed together. and then hung again onhinges with removable pins.
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I also did the small door for the phone sign and made it so it can be opened.

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alan curston

I finally got some ply for the floor, as it had to be 5' wide to get it in one piece. I then painted it with Valspar external wood and metal paint. I had a few custom colours scanned but none of them seemed right, so I found what I believe to be a close colour called 'Submarine Blue'
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alan curston

the window frames were all half lap jointed, glued together and placed in the opening to ensure the would be the right shape when the glue went off.
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I painted them again with Valspar pure brilliant white and attached the perspex for the windows with silicone.
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They were then attached in to the box, pin nailed and siliconed in on the inside to cover any small gaps.
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alan curston

so just the final details, putting in the yale lock, and painting inside the doors white. door handles and putting some clear perspex over the police public call box signs to the the reflective nature I wanted. also the door handles and the paint touch ups.
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then pretty much done. IMG_0963.JPG

alan curston

So its all done, with only a few minor things to do. I need to get a proper St. Johns ambulance sticker as the one currently on it is a print out laminated.
also getting some electrics in it, as my dad is an electrician he should be able to do it for me as I want it all to run off a 12v car battery so I can take it places without worrying about power.
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issues:
1.) base not square or level, so always needs blocks to get the doors to open
2.) the police box signs don't quite black out all the lights so the whole sign lights up, not just the lettering.
3.) the black perspex was not tinted as I thought when I ordered it rather than just black, so it doesn't let any light through and looks a bit lame at night.
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4.) the right door is a bit bowed so the top and bottom on the middle sit away from the cover spline it closes against.

overall I'm very pleased with the outcome. and use this as an excellent learning curve if i decide to make another one.

thanks for reading - Alan!!

Senseidale

Very nice build, I do like the Rubber toe pull to open sign, i hope you did not pay all that money for it to have loose letters ect they are are not cheap,  Bowing is a problem I came across, I ended up making one new door,  you might think about putting a false celling and have the lights in side and separate lighting for the main body, is the lighting mains power or have you used battery LEDs ?
All in all you have built a very very  nice Tardis down in Norfolk.
Regards
Dale.
"In 900 years of time and space, I've never met anyone who wasn't important"