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Primrodo's Capaldi/Smith 2013 Console Build

Started by ThisJustinOnline, Nov 11, 2015, 05:31 pm

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warmcanofcoke

Quote from: Primrodo on Mar 02, 2016, 06:53 pm
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I know its blurry I will get a better shot for sure.

It is a METAL Keyboard and from the US! So it explains the cost!

Quote from: warmcanofcoke on Mar 02, 2016, 07:28 pm
Empros Systems international Minneapolis Minnesota

Equipment Ident Number CA312B 01 Series Code ?????? Part Number ??????

-Serviced in 1992-

Control Data Product Description 15388511 Operations Keyboard Model 8830-101 Serial Number 1046 HPC/EC 56598680

A clearer picture will help.  ;D

Quote from: gambit410 on Mar 02, 2016, 07:53 pm
Via google fu looks like Empros was bought by Siemens back in 1993.


http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=4581.msg82081;topicseen#msg82081

why doesn't the Guide mention them? - Oh, it's not very accurate.
Oh? - I'm researching the new edition.

ThisJustinOnline


warmcanofcoke

why doesn't the Guide mention them? - Oh, it's not very accurate.
Oh? - I'm researching the new edition.

warmcanofcoke

Mar 02, 2016, 09:13 pm #108 Last Edit: Mar 02, 2016, 09:25 pm by warmcanofcoke
I have a friend who wants to know what the cable connections / ports / plug ends look like on the keyboard. They have this plan to use a "gsettings tool to program the extra buttons." Please take a picture.  :)
why doesn't the Guide mention them? - Oh, it's not very accurate.
Oh? - I'm researching the new edition.

ThisJustinOnline

I don't actually have the keyboard with me, and I am leaving behind all but the buttons because it WEIGHS a ton to ship!

warmcanofcoke

why doesn't the Guide mention them? - Oh, it's not very accurate.
Oh? - I'm researching the new edition.

ThisJustinOnline

Some updates! The Good!

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The BAD

The base I completely goofed on and its too high up by a good few inches so I have to do some cutting and figure that out. Not fun but I have faith in me!

Video to come on Monday and then that weekend should be finishing it up!

greggnowling

I'm totally stoked watching you build this. It's fun seeing things come together that are intimidating.   You're doing a splendid job.

I don't really have anything constructive to say....just well done!

Gregg

galacticprobe

Mar 05, 2016, 06:36 am #113 Last Edit: Mar 05, 2016, 06:36 am by galacticprobe
Agreed! Watching this console grow is amazing! And that base really doesn't look as bad as you think it does, Justin. It actually looks pretty good. (So what if, by measurements, it's a little tall? Remember, this is a scaled-back version, but you still want the control panels to be about the right height so you're not leaning over so far to reach them - like we saw the War Doctor and 10th Doctor have to do when standing on the extended entrance platform in the 50th: that extension they put in there for Clara's entrance on the motorcycle. They had to bend over a little too noticeably.)

I could see if this was a half-scale or so, but you're pretty close to full-size. So if your base is a little bit high, I would say check the height of the control panels before cutting anything down. With having your console scaled back only a little, I would think that base would be fine, and not noticeable as a little high.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

davidnagel

Lovely! Looking really good.

I realised this is scaled down, is that why the plinth section light tubes there are 3 instead of 4?

Also, will the panels be raised a little to give that indent between each panel? Or are you intending it to be flush?
Regards
David

galacticprobe

Mar 06, 2016, 04:41 pm #115 Last Edit: Mar 06, 2016, 04:41 pm by galacticprobe
Quote from: davidnagel on Mar 05, 2016, 09:48 am
I realised this is scaled down, is that why the plinth section light tubes there are 3 instead of 4?

I noticed this too, and it being scaled down was my guess. Looking at the small "bridges" between the holes for the light tubes, if you tried to squeeze four tubes into this plinth (that's four per section for a total of 16 light tubes), the holes would be so close together that there would be no structural support in that light core. So the only way to adjust for this is to reduce the number of light tubes and give the remaining ones more room. (Of course the narrower light tubes could have been used, which would have meant smaller diameter holes for them so the full four per section could be in there, but then I don't think that would have looked as nice; the narrow tubes would - for lack of a better way to say this - 'throw the eye off'.)

I think this will be great once she's all lit up.

Quote from: davidnagel on Mar 05, 2016, 09:48 am
Also, will the panels be raised a little to give that indent between each panel? Or are you intending it to be flush?

Good question. I was sort of wondering a little of that myself. (Is there some heavy duty routering to lower the inner surface of the panels in the near future?)

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

ThisJustinOnline

Oh its 3" too high to be at the right spot is all. I will be able to save it, but its hovering at my waist, so needs to come down or I am reaching to go to the top. When I did my math I over estimated the height for the scale and appropriate heights.

Because of the scale if I made the tubes correct they would have to be smaller diameter and I wanted those thick tubes still so yeah I tweaked it slightly :) So very much correct!

As for the frame details, that all goes on top of each panel and covers the join. Will make much more sense next week ;)

ThisJustinOnline


davidnagel

Ah! Wasn't very obvious from the build initially.
Regards
David

ThisJustinOnline

Well I did it and it was easier than I thought!

Now the whole thing rests as 44.75" Including the Nonagon.

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