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David's TARDIS Toolkit

Started by davidnagel, Jul 06, 2015, 09:57 am

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davidnagel

Jul 06, 2015, 09:57 am Last Edit: Aug 16, 2017, 08:01 am by davidnagel
Hello!

For some reason this prop isn't in the Build Type list ???

Anyway, if there is one prop I will finish this year, I hope it will be this one. Ever since the brief glimpses of the thing in "Earthshock" I have been a little obsessed with the TARDIS toolkit. The reference thread includes pictures I had not seen before which have been very helpful and pictures from episodes I had long since forgotten the prop featured!

As we all know now, the original case was a metal Helix Home File case.  I helped a replica prop forum member source one and I quickly found my own on eBay, which can be seen here:

ttk_clean.JPG

All painted up with the first lick of primer:

ttk_painted.JPG

Yes! Thats the first post and as far as I am with the build!

My plans are to

  • plastidip the plastic ends, this will ensure they're stronger/reinforced

  • add the push buttons to the handle section

  • add black electrical tape (though it looks thinner than this) to add the detailing on the lid

  • gradually build the inside tools (another potential thread build itself! haha)

  • add the black boxes to the front, sides, back and inside top



Wish me luck!

For those that don't want to skip to the other thread, here are a few images (posted by warmcanofcoke) of the box from the show:

toolkitEarthshock_zps1081806c.jpg
toolkitArcofInfinity_zpse838bbb9.jpg
toolkitMawdrynUndead3_zpsc0a713bf.jpg
rani008_zps335549eb.jpg
Kind Regards,

David

www.spiffinglyniceguy.co.uk

fivefingeredstyre

Can't wait to see how this one turns out. I was thinking the other day that i've never seen anyone attempt one of these before :)

galacticprobe

Jul 07, 2015, 06:01 am #2 Last Edit: Jul 07, 2015, 06:02 am by galacticprobe
I think there have been a few people that started a build of this version of the toolkit, Russell, but so far I don't think anyone has finished a build. (And I think some of those members may have not logged in for years.)

No pressure, though, David! ;) ;D

As for that black tape trim on the lid, perhaps some of that automotive "pin-striping" detailing tape would work better. It comes in different widths so you can see which one would fit the lid best. And I think it's got more of a grip to its adhesive than electrical take does (it is designed for cars and highway speeds, after all). It would also make for a lot less work, not having to cut such straight lines out of the electrical tape just to get the right thickness you need.

I hope that suggestion is feasible.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

davidnagel

Thanks Dino, I didn't actually know such tape existed!

Shock horror I know!

I'll keep my eye out for some, as soon as I work out the rough thickness. I'm guessing it's about 6mm but I'll do some photo comparisons first.
Kind Regards,

David

www.spiffinglyniceguy.co.uk

13drwho

If you look in the drafting section of a craft store they sell colored "artist tape". I used it to put stripes on my console. It comes in differnt widths... 0.0625, 0.125, 0.25 etc. I would seal it with clearcoat to make sure it doesn't peal though.

galacticprobe

Jul 08, 2015, 04:52 am #5 Last Edit: Jul 08, 2015, 04:59 am by galacticprobe
Quote from: davidnagel on Jul 07, 2015, 09:48 am
Thanks Dino, I didn't actually know such tape existed!

You're welcome, David! Anything to help ease the work involved (or the pain and frustration levels). :D

Quote from: davidnagel on Jul 07, 2015, 09:48 am
I'll keep my eye out for some, as soon as I work out the rough thickness. I'm guessing it's about 6mm but I'll do some photo comparisons first.

I don't know if you've seen this yet (probably have, but just to be sure): http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=1201.0. I'm not completely sure of its accuracy with regards to the measure scale at the bottom of the "Toolkit" page (second photo down), but since you've got the actual base box you should be able to use that as an accuracy benchmark. If that drawing is anywhere near accurate, then it would make it easier for you to figure out the thickness of the pin-striping tape you'll need.

I hope it helps.

(And is it just me, or does that "Stalos Gyro" - bottom tool in the first photo - look like a modified bottle opener?)

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

davidnagel

Jul 15, 2015, 04:22 pm #6 Last Edit: Jul 15, 2015, 04:25 pm by davidnagel
New but not very interesting progress on this, after a sand back and a reprime, the proper paint job can begin.

20150714_202425778_iOS.JPG
All taped up ready to paint.

20150714_202726701_iOS.JPG
The paint goes on.

I've gone for automotive silver spray paint. To me, the tool kit looks like a silvery/white. It may be wrong but I'm going for an idealised version of the kit.

Unfortunately between acquiring the case and painting now, it seems some weird rusting is appearing in places:

20150714_202732242_iOS.JPG
20150714_202738963_iOS.JPG

I've tried sanding this back between primer coats but it isn't going away. Being the impatient sort, I have decided against fixing this completely and hoping the detailing tape will make the lid patch less obvious. The side will be covered by the external boxes.

Still waiting on delivery of the plastidip to continue. And I have yet to decide on the width of the detailing tape - off to photoshop I go!
Kind Regards,

David

www.spiffinglyniceguy.co.uk

galacticprobe

Jul 16, 2015, 05:08 am #7 Last Edit: Jul 16, 2015, 05:08 am by galacticprobe
Quote from: davidnagel on Jul 15, 2015, 04:22 pm
New but not very interesting progress on this...

Any progress is interesting, David, especially when replicating a seldom-replicated prop. I know there are a few others that had started on this toolkit a while back, but those builds just faded away and are left in limbo. You are battling on with yours, and that in itself makes it interesting, no matter how little progress you think you've made.

Quote from: davidnagel on Jul 15, 2015, 04:22 pm
I've gone for automotive silver spray paint. To me, the tool kit looks like a silvery/white. It may be wrong but I'm going for an idealised version of the kit.

And that is perfectly fine! When you take into account color alterations caused by studio lighting, outdoor lighting, publicity photo lighting, the way your TV or computer screen interprets colors, etc., making an idealized replica is a good way to go. (Remember; it has to please your eye first and foremost.)

Quote from: davidnagel on Jul 15, 2015, 04:22 pm
Unfortunately between acquiring the case and painting now, it seems some weird rusting is appearing in places...

I've tried sanding this back between primer coats but it isn't going away. Being the impatient sort, I have decided against fixing this completely and hoping the detailing tape will make the lid patch less obvious. The side will be covered by the external boxes.

David, for the lid spot, have you tried some "tough love" (i.e. a wire brush - manual or the wheel-kind on a drill) to clear the rust, and then smoothed any pitted areas with Bondo-like putty? That should take care of any blemishes on the lid. The sides, as you so rightly put it, will be covered by those add-on boxes.

Quote from: davidnagel on Jul 15, 2015, 04:22 pm
Still waiting on delivery of the plastidip to continue. And I have yet to decide on the width of the detailing tape - off to photoshop I go!

Good luck with the continuation of this great replica! (And remember, all updates are interesting. :))

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

Oblivion

Jul 17, 2015, 05:31 am #8 Last Edit: Jul 17, 2015, 05:36 am by Oblivion
You really ought to make dealing with that rusty lid a priority David, after spending time and effort making such a replica it's only going to get worse, it'll eventually bubble through and spoil the finished item if you don't. ;)
Hampshire UK

davidnagel

Looks like it may be a chemical reaction. Spraying other sides has had some boil up that I hadn't anticipated.

I may need to sand the entire beige coating back to the bare metal, Or whatever it is, and prime from the beginning.

*facepalm
Kind Regards,

David

www.spiffinglyniceguy.co.uk

rob49152

See if you can find a place to sandblast it for you. I did that with some white enamal chairs. Worked great and was super cheap at the time. 6 chairs was $30.

davidnagel

Thats a good idea Rob, I'll look into that.

If I'm right in my understanding of sandblasting, I may not need to do any sanding back what I've painted already.... ???

I do wonder whether the plastic parts will survive though!
Kind Regards,

David

www.spiffinglyniceguy.co.uk

rob49152

Quote from: davidnagel on Jul 18, 2015, 11:11 pm
Thats a good idea Rob, I'll look into that.
I do wonder whether the plastic parts will survive though!


I think you'll have to take it down to bare bones minimum and remove all the plastic. Or at least cover those parts with material that could withstand the sandblasting process.

davidnagel

I'll see if it comes apart (and can be put back together without issues!) and consult a sandblast company on how they prefer to receive items to be blasted.

Thanks Rob!

And thanks everyone else for their suggestions and support so far.
Kind Regards,

David

www.spiffinglyniceguy.co.uk

galacticprobe

Jul 19, 2015, 06:51 am #14 Last Edit: Jul 19, 2015, 06:52 am by galacticprobe
I know they use walnut shell bits when blasting fiberglass to get old paint off because the shell bits don't damage the fiberglass. If the case doesn't come apart and go back together with relative ease, that may be another option if the shells won't damage the plastic parts of the case, and will still strip the paint from the metal parts.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"