Brachacki TARDIS Build

[galacticprobe]

These screws have a wood screw on one end and on the other is a machine bolt thread. I'll be able to put a washer & bolt on it and bolt all parts together, allowing easier for dis & reassembly & not be enlarging the holes each time in doing this.

If you use wing nuts with the washers rather than ordinary nuts when bolting things together it should make things go even smoother. You won't need any tools (like ratchets or spanners/wrenches) to attach things; just your fingers to spin those wing nuts on and off, and you should be able to tighten then sufficiently with just your hands when assembling the cabinet.

Dino.

[dfotusn]

Light looks great! Where did you get the ceiling fan cover and which one is it?

[bdhuey]

You're right, wing nuts are the way to go.  Nuts are a pain, going to Home Depot for some more materials and they will be included. I'm posting a pic of the hanger nut install.  I screwed up by putting one on the pillar, they should all be on floor so I can lift off, don't know what the heck I was thinking.  Finally finished the pillar caps and mounted 2, also completed one lintel and most of glass frame on phone door. Only have the horizontal pieces to cut, but will wait till its finish work is done and painting, then will on glue to lexan. For the frosted panes, I'm going to use florescent light cover plastic. I'll post once I get there. Hoping to have at least 2 walls installed by end of weekend.
I got the ceiling fan cover at Home Depot in the fan parts area.
   

[bdhuey]

Finish building and installing one wall, plus another lintel. I removed the center 2 3 in board for door frame and replaced it with a 6 inch piece to give stability. Also mounted telly sign & frame and install inside guards for door so it won't flop back inside.       

Taking a break fro building to get caught up on finishing work so i can start some painting.

[bdhuey]

Forgot to mention, to any possible builders of this TARDIS, that on the inside part of the pillar to wall, or door jam, i had to add 2.25 inches/ 57.15 mm to pillars it so that the wall aligned up with side of the pillars & the top of the lintels. Only found this out after I installed a wall and say that they were not back far enough under the lintel. Plus this seals it so no light will show through from inside. If you do the complete box method on the pillars, this a moot.  I also added 2 inches/50.8 to the wall height and on both sides of width, on the inside, walls are exact size on outside.  This gave me more support in mounting the wall and will make it easy to disassemble & reassemble for move from garage to living room. The top pillar caps were reduced 1.5 inches/ 38.1 mm total from original horizontal size of pillar to make the indent as in original prop. The window slats were and are being made out of my 3/4 inch/19.05 mm scrap from all of the reduced sizing on the wood. I don't know how it is overseas, but here in US when you buy , say a 1 x 4/25.4 x 101.6 mm, it's actually- .75 x 3.5 inches/19.05 x 88.9 mm. So on all cuts for pillars and board panel wood you have to go up 2 sizes to get proper width. Needles to say there's a lot of thin scrap wood left over.  Here's the working retro phone, I'm going to install it in the TARDIS when complete in build and paint.  Got it off ebay for less than 20 bucks.    On Telly part of build, I'm not doing the box part, because on the show it's open, no box. Plus, I'll have immediate access to beverages placed on future shelf near the Telly  GRRR just looked at door hinges, bought the wrong ones! I need removable pin door hinges, another trip back to HD..Oh Well!

[bdhuey]

Doors installed  Magnetic lock for phone door   Couldn't resist photo by daughter  

[galacticprobe]

She is really coming along nicely! And quickly. You are doing great justice to my favorite model of the TARDIS prop exterior!

Dino.

[DoctorWho8]

One issue that may be too late to fix is that the top of the doors should overlap behind the three horizontal steps to act as a door stop.  This also applies to the other 3 sides.

If you can, your 3-steps can be thinned down as they look thicker than on the original prop.  Then you can add some wood (say 1/2"=3/4") to the tops of the doors and sides so they go behind the 3-steps.  I hope this makes sense.
Bill "the Doctor" Rudloff

[bdhuey]

Wow, I appreciate that info, you're absolutely correct.  I've got the sides of the doors on the inside of the pillars/post by a little over a .25 in or 6.35 mm, The walls are recessed so they look like they overlap top & sides but just completely screwed up the top.  I'll fix it, Will take doors off, I used removable pin hinges.  All I have to do is slip them out and add a 1/2 in or 12.7 mm to them.  Again, thank you.

[bdhuey]

She is really coming along nicely! And quickly. You are doing great justice to my favorite model of the TARDIS prop exterior!

Dino.

Thank you, and I have a question. Didn't the later version of the Brachacki have the key moved to the right door? I think I saw it in one of the post, but can't confirm it and don't want to screw this up again. Thanks

[galacticprobe]

Bd, you are correct. Starting with the Hartnell story "The War Machines", the prop got a bit of a refurb which consisted of a repaint (resulting in the window frames turning blue), and the doors were reworked/replaced. The doors definitely got new window frames (no drip sills that were still on the windows on the other three sides), they were still painted blue like the rest of the windows, and this is when the lock moved to the right-hand door and the Old Girl lost the St. John logo from the right-hand door.

The refurb happened during the filming of the story, so when you watch it, you'll notice the discontinuity as sometimes when the TARDIS is in shot she's got the "new look", while in others, she's still in her original configuration (white window frames, lock on the left-hand door, St. John logo on the right-hand door). So in all stories following "The War Machines" the TARDIS' lock was on the right-hand door - albeit in various places throughout the Jon Pertwee/Tom Baker/Peter Davison eras - but it's been on the right-hand door since. (Personally, since the original Brachacki is my favorite model, I like the lock on the left-hand door.)

I hope this explanation was helpful, if not thorough.

Dino.

[warmcanofcoke]

Such a work of beauty - I am dazzled  Keep up the magnificent work. 

[bdhuey]

Wow, I appreciate that info, you're absolutely correct.  I've got the sides of the doors on the inside of the pillars/post by a little over a .25 in or 6.35 mm, The walls are recessed so they look like they overlap top & sides but just completely screwed up the top.  I'll fix it, Will take doors off, I used removable pin hinges.  All I have to do is slip them out and add a 1/2 in or 12.7 mm to them.  Again, thank you.

Bot was I wrong on it being easy to fix door install.  I spent better half of 2 hrs screwing with it, finally went back to 1st option.  And you were right again, I don't have the doors behind the pillars. I must have dreamed itm cuz I would have swore I did. Oh well.

[bdhuey]

Thanks for info, Was getting a little perplexed about correct side.  I'm with you, I'm keeping it on the left.  Only mod I will do is put door handles on both doors.  It's going to be a liquor cabinet so, gotta have quick access. LOL

[bdhuey]

Such a work of beauty - I am dazzled  Keep up the magnificent work. 

Hey thanks, I appreciate that. Lot of work but fun.