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Red door lever size

Started by omarvance, May 04, 2014, 10:45 pm

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omarvance

Sorry if this is mentioned somewhere else. Can someone tell me the dimensions of the red door handle lever and rounded casing? Thanks!image.jpg

celation

Sure - the casing is basically the re-used large grey lever from the Hartnell era.

By my measurements, 9 inches long by 3 wide. Overall 2 inches tall (need to double check this one). Base is 3/8 in thick. Border around edge of base is 3/4 in at each end, and 1/2 in at each side.

You should be able to take a decent guess at the diameter of the red sphere based on that. I'd take a stab at 3 inches for that one.

Hope that all makes sense.

omarvance

Thanks! So does the inside shaft extend below the console panel? If you took a thin dowel rod and had the screw in the center of the circle, it wouldn't look like the image. I'm not sure how else to phrase my question lol. Hope you understand what I mean.

Rassilons Rod

According to this website: http://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/rad2.cgi

That means the overall diameter would be 6" (or 6.06250"). But I would imagine that 6" would be close enough ;)
In the cities in the streets there's a tension you can feel,
The breaking strain is fast approaching, guns and riots.
Politicians gamble and lie to save their skins,
And the press get fed the scapegoats,
Public Enema Number One.

celation

Yes - you might well be right about the diameter, Marc. Can't remember right now... 6" sounds feasible.

But yes - the rod rotates around a bolt fixed well below the surface of the panel.

galacticprobe

May 06, 2014, 03:55 pm #5 Last Edit: May 06, 2014, 03:55 pm by galacticprobe
Quote from: celation on May 05, 2014, 12:08 am
You should be able to take a decent guess at the diameter of the red sphere based on that. I'd take a stab at 3 inches for that one.


I just measured one of my bubble globes (like those on the 2005 console) and found one that is 3 inches in diameter. That's a bit large; in fact depending on the size of your hand, if you make a fist that's roughly a 3-inch diameter "ball".  Judging by how the actors' hands fit on and around that red ball, I'd guesstimate it at closer to 2, maybe 2 1/4 inches. I know that doesn't sound like much, but if you look at the height of the "housing" with an overall height of 2 inches, and the size of the ball, they're pretty close, so I'm thinking that 2 inches is a more accurate guess.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

omarvance

One guy said he thought it was 9 inches and the other 6. Any other guesses? Lol

Rassilons Rod

6" is the radius of the curved housing not the red ball :D

The ball is probably 2" or 2.5" diameter (1" or 1.25" radius).
In the cities in the streets there's a tension you can feel,
The breaking strain is fast approaching, guns and riots.
Politicians gamble and lie to save their skins,
And the press get fed the scapegoats,
Public Enema Number One.

omarvance

Jun 07, 2014, 03:10 am #8 Last Edit: Jun 07, 2014, 03:12 am by omarvance
This is the first time I've ever even tried using a saw. I could use a little advice making my lever box. I got a workbench and jigsaw. The edges of these pieces are really jagged. I seem to be a little off each time I try cutting a circle. Anyone have general advice on making this?
image.jpgimage.jpg

galacticprobe

Jun 07, 2014, 05:38 am #9 Last Edit: Jun 07, 2014, 06:04 am by galacticprobe
Omarvance, don't get discouraged; unless you're a machine or have a really most sincerely steady hand, you're always going to get jagged edges and the pieces aren't going to turn out the same. (That is, of course, unless you build a jig to hold either the saw or a router and use that to cut the curve, but that's a lot of work.)

However, you could try something like this:
image.jpg
Cut out your two outer side pieces (the yellow arrows). Then cut a third piece from which you'll cut your two "end stops" (red arrows). Try to be as close as you can get to the cuts in-as-far-as the curve and size, but don't worry if they're a little rough (pardon the pun) around the edges at this point. Cut the pieces a bit proud so you still have your curved pencil line on the piece and it's easy to see. (This will come in handy soon.)

Once you've got the pieces cut, assemble them however you have planned (glue and clamps, small screws or nails, both, etc.). Use care to align the pieces the best you can making sure that you have the curved pencil line on the outside so you can see it. Once they're assembled (if using the glue and clamp make sure everything is quite dry), take the assembly to a sander (belt sander, palm sander - a.k.a. "jitterbug") or some such stable sanding machine.

Lay the assembly on its side (blue arrow - doesn't matter which side, so long as it's smooth and you can see that curved line I mentioned above, and both sides should be from the looks of what you've got so far). Then using great care, rub the assembly slowly across the sanding machine until you've sanded down the edges to meet the curved line. (You can use the same method on the flat (down) side of the assembly as well so it mounts without having a tilt to it.)

When you're done, you should have a very smooth and even curved surface, and if you've used enough glue on it (where it squeezes out a bit when clamped to dry) the glue should hide the seams when it's painted. (With ply, though, you may have to full in a few holes where the laminates are joined, but something like Bondo should do well for that. Fine sanding might be needed if filling is needed.)

That should give you about the closest and smoothest look to your lever housing.

Hopefully all this is a little helpful.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

omarvance

Dino, I'm confused about the middle piece.  I want a slot and groove system.  If I just do a pivot point in the middle of a 6inch radius circle, it goes way below the panel.  So I thought some type of groove that followed the arc across would be better.  Any ideas?

galacticprobe

Jun 08, 2014, 06:25 am #11 Last Edit: Jun 08, 2014, 06:56 am by galacticprobe
Quote from: omarvance on Jun 08, 2014, 12:54 am
Dino, I'm confused about the middle piece. I want a slot and groove system. If I just do a pivot point in the middle of a 6inch radius circle, it goes way below the panel.

Well, actually, I believe that is how it worked on the actual prop. That's one reason why they left enough room inside the console, under that lever; to accommodate the pivot point. Basically, my last post was just intended to help you get around the difficulties you were having with getting the curves of the housing pieces to match up, since you mentioned that your curves were off on the pieces you'd cut. But since the subject of the pivot point came up...

Quote from: omarvance on Jun 08, 2014, 12:54 am
So I thought some type of groove that followed the arc across would be better. Any ideas?

If you don't mind altering the design a bit, you could try using the earlier original Hartnell/Troughton console "lever's" design:
HartnellDematLever.jpg
Here's a rendering of it. (I can't remember where I found this one, but on this console that knob did have a red center to it.)

1A.jpg
Here's a cropped color publicity photo from the Hartnell era. (That's Hartnell's hand in the photo.) You can see the design of the housing for the lever is the same as yours, it's just the knob that's different (but it does indeed have a red center on it). And this one does follow the curve. It probably also had a pivot point, but if you just slip the knob into the slot, with the knob being so low, you could probably use your middle piece and have the knob's stem slide along it, thereby eliminating the deep-console pivot point of the larger lever. Here you can see the knob is just above the housing.

2nddoc01.jpg
And here's a cropped color publicity photo from the Troughton era. This one is a different control (but the same lever; this console had three of those levers on it, but only one had the red center on its knob. This photo shows the housing better; it's one of the other two such levers. (You can just make out the third lever housing at the very edge of the left side of the photo.) This knob sits a little more on top of the housing, so you can have a little leeway with it.

Other than using one of the above style levers, I'm not sure how you could totally eliminate that pivot point, even with the center slot like you have it; it's got to pivot on something. But these here could simply slide along your center slot and that would eliminate the need for that pivot point.

(I'd link to some of the reference photos in the Console Reference section (Seasons 1-6), but every time I try to get into that sub-board I get a white screen saying that the page can't load because my browser is not connected to the tardisbuilders.com server. I've tried several times, and each time it takes my browser out - nothing on TARDIS Builders will load - and I have to clear my browsing history, dump my entire cache, and then reboot my computer before I can get back into the Forum. So, I've just posted a few of the photos I've collected over the years.)

Someone else may have a better idea, but I'm afraid this is all my brain can come up with at the moment.

I hope it is of some help.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

Rassilons Rod

Just a small point on the mechanics of this lever.

Without the 6" circle pivot point design, the lever would appear to lengthen as you bring it to the middle of the unit and shrink again as it reaches the end again.

When it is seen in the show, the knob remains on the surface of the lever housing.

:)
In the cities in the streets there's a tension you can feel,
The breaking strain is fast approaching, guns and riots.
Politicians gamble and lie to save their skins,
And the press get fed the scapegoats,
Public Enema Number One.

omarvance

image.jpg

I've done some work and learned a lot since my last post. This is my prototype. I drilled a hole in a cue ball but it's a little off center.

galacticprobe

Jun 23, 2014, 05:49 am #14 Last Edit: Jun 23, 2014, 05:50 am by galacticprobe
Looks good. Que balls are a bit on the heavy side, though. Are you worried about the weight and that thin dowel the ball is on? Or are you going to slip a brass tube/sleeve over the dowel to re-inforce it? (Of course, there are always wooden balls of the same diameter that would be lighter, that is if the "off center" hole bothers you and you have plans to redo it. But for the record, I can't tell it's off center at all.)

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"