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New, New TardisBuilders!

New Lamp For 2010

Started by rizla, Jun 10, 2010, 02:56 pm

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Jun 17, 2010, 05:24 am #15 Last Edit: Jun 17, 2010, 05:29 am by cathlyn847
Quote from: Doctor Iz on Jun 16, 2010, 12:16 pm
I have found a website that still has the 'anchor oil lamp' that is used on the 2010 NST.  I don't know how many they have, but given they have been discontinued elsewhere, it would stand to reason they maybe discontinued here as well.  I hope this find help those of you looking for authentic parts for a 2010 NST.

Here are  a couple more sites:
PS: Purple confirmed that the hero prop was 14" tall (as found) and was then cut down for the NST2010
What would the Doctor do?


May 24, 2011, 06:36 pm #16 Last Edit: May 24, 2011, 06:38 pm by deck5
Screen cap from "Rebel Flesh".  Bit dark but a rare view down upon the roof and the lamp fixture.



dunno if this thread is still open to info but i will try none the less,i recently bought a candle lantern that looks pretty much exactly like that,was lookin every where,on the net,hardware stores,then one day out of the blue,homebase,got a full stock of em in,they are around 8 inches in height and they were on 6.99 euro,i was chuffed and got 2 lol dont know wot i need 2 for mind,but i tot at that price egt em just incase,anyways,if anyone is lookin for one check homebase,cant hurt lol


Jun 14, 2011, 04:26 am #18 Last Edit: Jun 14, 2011, 04:26 am by galacticprobe
Could you post a link to the lantern's page? There's a lot to look through and my browser keeps hanging up after a few pages. Maybe if you posted the direct link it would be easier to get to.

"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"


dunno if u are replyin to me dino but if ya were,i did try and get a link for ya but they dont have them listed in their website,yet when i go tru the main doors there they are stacked upon stacks of themselves,dunno why they  dont list em on their site,i found a pic of it on the web to show ya how it looks and this is the one that i got and the color too,they have rusty and silver colored ones,see wot u think95424.jpg


I think that height is going to be very short compared to what is used for the NST, which is 14" best I can tell. While the ratios look good enough (height vs diameter of the fresnel) that means the fresnel is going to be much smaller around that what you need.


Jun 23, 2011, 06:10 am #21 Last Edit: Jun 23, 2011, 06:10 am by galacticprobe
Thanks for posting the pic, Paddy. That's a nice-looking lamp. Coming from a nautical family heritage it would break my heart to tear something like that apart. (I'd probably just end up hanging it up in my living room.)

I'll keep poking around the antique shops. Maybe I'll find one that's so far gone - with a good lens - that I won't mind doing some extensive surgery on it.

"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"


no probs chaps,just want to point a couple of things out,my build is a 3/4  size scale so that one is nearly inch perfect for my build,(btw i was ment to log a build diary of my build and my progress,was excited on sharing the experiences,but my wife took my camera to a recent wedding and the daft mare left it behind and its gone forever grrrrrrrrr,wit the memory card still in it,all my pics gone forever too,double grrrrr,so i took some pics on my phone from half done stage to finish,will try and post em soon) but gettin back on topic,the lid of that lamp,doesnt need cutting or anything,there is a screw on the side that holds the top part that holds the handle,unscrew that and the lid just comes off,no cutting involved,so it really isnt desecration per se lol,i then got a cheap birdfeeder thingy that had a rounded ceramic top and fitted that on top of the remainder of the lamp so wit that sitting on top brings its height back up to about 7 and a half inches to eight inches in height and am thinking of cutting a rounded piece of wood to blend in wit it and stack it on to add to its height and give it a ten inch stature,now even wit all my good intentioned gentle persuasion lol for a full scale build it prob might not be wide enuff for wot u are lookin for but for height wise all it takes is simple adjustments to give a tall lookin lamp,but i understand its all about personal preference and all that,i was just thinkin wit the price it was worth sharing wit yas,hate to see anyone pay tru the nose for one


Ok, I found a lamp that will work and look grand, but how do I fix the light to blink properly? What kind of inner workings has anyone used?


Mar 14, 2014, 11:20 pm #24 Last Edit: Mar 14, 2014, 11:49 pm by galacticprobe
Okay... below this post is a lamp flasher that I found for celation to use on his Hartnell console, quoted from a post I made in his Build Diary. The principle is the same for the lamp on top of the TARDIS. The thing is, whereas celation needed to use 230Vac (UK power), we in the US use 110-120Vac. This circuit should work with your standard wall outlet line power and a regular lamp bulb (say around 40 Watts or so, though I think 25 Watts would be plenty bright).

But if you're looking to go with something like a 12V bulb instead - like from a car's turn signal, parking or side marker light - then this would be the better circuit for you:
And for the explanation of how the circuit works, the web site is, but basically, it's the setting of your adjustable resistor VR1 (a.k.a. the speed knob) that will set how fast the lamp flashes. With VR1 being adjustable, you can have the circuit working while you tweak VR1 until you get the flash rate you like.

And here's that quote from celation's Diary:
Quote from: galacticprobe on Nov 14, 2013, 06:33 am
Chris, I've been poking about for this one and I think I found something that may be of use to you:
(And for reference posterity, the circuit; I can also transcribe the operational description as well if anyone feels it necessary, so we have that to go with the diagram in case this link ever goes dead. But the link is posted already so the credit for the circuit goes to that site.)

The page explains how the circuit works (if you need clarification on anything just let me know). Most of these parts can be found at any electronics parts store (Radio Shack is a US favorite), and 95% or better will only cost a few cents (US). I'm not sure how much the Q1 (the BC 548) or T1 (the BT136) will cost because I've never had cause to buy one of them before, but considering the rest of this circuit, they shouldn't be all that much. And D1 (the BZ 148 near the left bottom) is just a zener diode voltage regulator.

Of course the 230VAC on the left is going to be the plug and your wall outlet for power coming in; the 230 VAC Lamp on the right will be your column's tube. (The "G" and "M1" and "M2" of T1 are the leads on that component.) I'm going to guess that since you've got this beauty all wired up otherwise you know the rest of the symbols and how to read one of these diagrams.

Anyway, just build this three times and you'll have your flasher circuit for each lamp in the column. With the tolerances in the components not being perfect, even if you build identical circuits your lamps will most likely not flash at the "exact" same rate - which will only lend to the accuracy as not even the original console had its lamps flashing at the same rate. And if things look a little too "timed", you can always adjust those components that control the flashing to change the flash rate a little. (Sometimes it helps to use variable components on those places so just a small turn of a thin jeweler's screwdriver can adjust the flash rate of each lamp while you watch the others until you get the look you want.)

I hope this helps.

"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"


Cool, I'm going to have to give this a shot as well. Unfortunately the most complicated circuit I've ever made before is one just involving some LEDs, wires, a resistor, and a switch.  ;D

I've going to have to do quite a bit of studying beforehand to figure this one out (heck, I'm not sure what half of the symbols in that diagram even mean! Lol)


Mar 16, 2014, 10:18 pm #26 Last Edit: Mar 20, 2014, 01:23 pm by galacticprobe
Well, in that case, I'd say stick with the 12V version. You could run that off of a battery (like from a Coleman lantern) or one of those wall adapters that you use for odd electronics thingies (just make sure the label on it says something like "Output: +12V" or "Output: 12VDC").

Quick basics in 'tronics for you and anyone else interested:


  • ----/\/\/\/\--- are resistors (ones with an arrow pointing over them like the one labeled "VR1" are variable, meaning that you can adjust its value by either turning a knob connected to it, or by using a small jeweler's-type screwdriver and turning a small screw on it). The numbers next to the resistors are their values in Ohms (how much resistance they offer to the circuit). Since there is no wattage listed, I think the standard is half-watt;

  • ---|(--- or ---||--- are capacitors, a.k.a. "caps", (and those with a + on one end are polarized, so that lead must be connected to the positive side). The numbers next to them (such as the "10uf") are their "Faraday" value - again too much theory for this. If a cap has a voltage next to it (like C1 in this diagram - "25V"), it is the maximum voltage that cap can handle without blowing. Even our military equipment used caps with ratings higher than the voltage they would be working with, so seeing a 25V cap in a 12V circuit is normal;

  • Can't really draw this one here, but the circle with the dotted line around it and three lines and the arrowhead in it (labelled "T1" on the diagram, with the 2N3055 under it) is a transistor. (It should actually be labelled "Q1" as the "T" is normally reserved for transformers, and the "Q" is for the "quiescent" state transistors operate in - way too much theory to go into that here, though.)

    In this case, a 2N3055 is an average power transistor capable of handling a flashing 55 Watt halogen bulb without any heat sink to help keep the transistor from overheating. If you stick to a car parking lamp or side marker bulb, that 3055 won't even get warm.

  • The other circle with the curly line in it is the bulb. (The easy one!) Bulbs will give you the slight fade on and off the TARDIS lamp has (or had). If you use LEDs for this, you'll need to add a resistor on one side of the LED as a ballast so it doesn't short out the transistor. An LED version of the lamp, though, will give you a strictly ON and OFF blink unless you add extra components to the circuit to get that fade look of a bulb. (Stick with the bulb!)

  • The rectangle with NE555 inside it is a small 8-leg IC (Integrated Circuit) chip - 4 legs on each side. This is every electronic project DIYer's favorite, near-bulletproof timer chip (called a "five-five-five timer", or "five-fifty-five timer", etc.). It can be configured to operate where it toggles the output on and off at a certain rate (as in the diagram), or it can be set to just toggle, meaning the output will turn on, or off, only when it gets an input signal (from a button, or even another 555 Timer). Pretty much one of the most versatile clock/timer IC chips out there: simple, rugged, and reliable (and inexpensive).

    Inside the rectangle is a group of micro resistors, capacitors, and transistors comprising the circuit of the 555. You could actually look at the internal diagram of the 555, go to your local Radio Shack-type of store, and buy the bits to build a large (about 2-inch square) version of the 555 if you really wanted to show off - that whole 'tinkering with a circuit in an open roundel of the TARDIS' kind of thing - but for a flasher for the TARDIS lamp, a 555 that's only about a quarter-inch square is about as easy as can be.

  • Finally, the 'A' labelled "+12 V" and the 'B' labelled "Ground" are simply the positive (A) and negative (B) side of your power source, whether it be a battery or one of those wall adapters.

So, hopefully that explains the symbols and some of what's happening in the circuit diagram. (Goat, feel free to e-mail me off-forum - so we don't bore people to tears - if you want any help with circuit stuff. I was an electronics technician (ET) in the Coast Guard for 29 years, and taught ET School twice, so I can probably answer just about any question that you might have. My e-mail is in my profile, and if you have any troubles getting through because AOL is acting like a prat, just send me a PM and we'll work out the comms issue that way.)

"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"


Wow, thanks for the info galacticprobe!


Mar 20, 2014, 01:29 pm #28 Last Edit: Mar 20, 2014, 01:29 pm by galacticprobe
Not a problem, Goat! I know I threw a lot of info out there, but hopefully it was helpful to you, and quite a few other people. And as I said, if you have any questions about that circuit or the bits in it, just pop me an e-mail or PM so our "tech talk" doesn't bore people out of their minds and I'll probably have the answer. (And if it looks like it would be of interest to everyone else, I'll just copy-and-paste the question and answer here.)

"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"