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Walls, Posts and Assembly
Started by natiejk, Jul 25, 2012, 08:05 pm
Jul 25, 2012, 08:05 pm
: Oct 22, 2012, 02:31 pm by Scarfwearer
As I'm working on some plans (with the help of Bill Rudloff's PDFs) for my Tennant/Smith build, I've run into some things that I thought I'd ask the forum here about.
First off, you probably know that you can't attach the door hinges directly to the corner posts because the round bit of the hinge would get in the way, so I drew up a plan on how to fix that by putting a small piece of wood behind the door trim.
But now I'm not quite sure how I want to attach the walls to the corner posts. I could make them the same way as the doors, minus the hinges and not cutting the walls in half to make doors, attaching them to the little extra wooden piece I mentioned earlier with some sort of flat connector.
This would make the measurements more symmetrical on each side since I wouldn't have to add the extra orange part's length to the wall if I did it the following way, using corner braces to connect the walls directly to the corner posts. But I do have a feeling this next idea would be sturdier.
I have no idea if any of my wording made sense, but which one should I go with? What would be easier and what would be sturdier? Any different ideas instead of these two? Does anyone know how it was done on the real Tennant and/or Smith props? What did you do for your build?
I appreciate the help,
Jul 25, 2012, 09:15 pm
It might be better if the door goes halfway behind the trim and the attachment block it attaches to is half the width of the trim. On the cornerposts for the wall joins, router a slot for the walls to slide into, then you can screw in L-brackets to attach them to the posts more securely.
Bill "the Doctor" Rudloff
Jul 25, 2012, 11:20 pm
For What It's Worth (FWIW), I completed an NST a few months ago (still got to get around to doing the build diary..) and actually did attach the hinges directly to the posts. I used loose-pin hinges so that I can pull it apart as needed and it's worked well for me so far. It does of course mean a very slight gap between door and wall because it's not a perfect 90 degree fold but the gap is entirely covered by the door trim on the outside and I was only worried about how it looks outside. My walls are joined in the middle in the same way so that they can be folded or with pins removed serve as secret doors. This does mean of course that the hinfes are not rebated into the door sides either but screwed through from the back.
Jul 26, 2012, 06:06 pm
Thanks for the replies. I've decided to go with Bill's suggestion, as it seems like it would make for a fairly sturdy TARDIS. Hopefully I'll have the time and money to begin my 1/4 size build (basically practice for the real thing) fairly soon.
Oh, and Glen, I noticed you started uploading your build diary after you replied to my post. It's looking very good so far!
Sep 07, 2013, 08:51 pm
I was having the same problem and this is just the kind of thing I was looking for. Thanks So Much!!!!
Have Sonic Will Travel
Sep 08, 2013, 04:31 am
: Sep 08, 2013, 04:36 am by galacticprobe
And of course, you can always use the official BBC method, as the plans posted in the DWE reveal (which is very similar to Bill's method, the major differences being no routered out slot in the post for the side wall, and an "L"-shaped external corner trim).
"What's wrong with being childish?! I
being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"
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