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Kiwidoc's Console

Started by kiwidoc, Jan 24, 2013, 08:42 am

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Thanks Dino - that's a good reference shot.   I agree with you on the dimples, they're quite variable and look like they were hand made/pressed at creation.       Most of the panel shots I've seen have 20-odd dimples and I have calculated the size to be 2cm wide and between 6-7 cm long.   I've revised my thinking about this since taking the pictures above - I was offsetting it by 3cm from the top of the rim and 2cm from the bevel edge but think it might be better to put the dimple right in the middle of the slanty bit so will make the 6cm instead.   Will try those sizes tomorrow and see if it looks a but more accurate.

Cheers, glen


Hey guys pretty sure that if you check you will see that when the crackle finish changed so did the proportions of the dimples- They are bigger in the second version.  With this one some sections have 21 some are smaller and have less.


Oh Great build!

"I could retire and be the curator of this place,"  the 11th doctor or maybe the 12th?


Seriously?!   Wow, time to go back and check photos (again!).    Do  you think they re-made the rim pieces when moving studio after Series 2?


Feb 03, 2013, 02:48 am #18 Last Edit: Feb 03, 2013, 02:48 am by museumdave
I know the angles are not quite right-but these are from the same panel.-
To answer your question I am pretty sure they were redone, you can see the propotions have changed and that they were less regular to start with.



"I could retire and be the curator of this place,"  the 11th doctor or maybe the 12th?


Feb 03, 2013, 05:37 am #19 Last Edit: Feb 03, 2013, 05:54 am by galacticprobe
Looks like you're right on that one, M.D. And since we're comparing rim sections, here's another to compare side by side (or rather top by bottom ;)):
the rim from my last post...
...and from the "Time Crash" Children In Need special.

The later rim did get uniform dimples (at least in size and placement: still hard to count how many are on each section). My guess is, though, since the earlier dimples look a bit haphazard in shape and placement - higher up on the slanted part of the rim and not in a straight line (really noticeable on the left-hand section), and the later dimples are more uniformly-shaped and centered on that slanted part of the rim, they either really reworked the rim sections or they rebuilt them.

So I guess like with everything else TARDISy, it all depends on which version you like best (if going for as much accuracy as possible), or which looks better to your eye if that level of accuracy isn't planet-shattering. (And there's nothing wrong with a little "mix-n-match", especially with this console!)

"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"


Good work guys!

Something i must add to my article  :)

Demat lever looks great kiwidoc  ;)

Love it!

the mister

holy wow! lookin profesh


Feb 09, 2013, 09:16 pm #22 Last Edit: Feb 09, 2013, 09:19 pm by kiwidoc
I'm mired in the same stage, puttying and sanding then repeating until I'm sick to death of it and wish I was building some shelves instead.  Anyway, here's the news:

I've clad the entire ceramic ring with 3mm MDF, in 4 pieces.  The joins aren't too bad but of course take extra work to stick down and sand flush.


I've had quite a lot of time spend on putting in filler and no-more-nails and sanding and repeating but the ring is looking pretty good now, ready for a finer sand and some sort of undercoat to gloss it up.   But before I do that I have to punch holes all through it don't I  Ugh - that seems so wrong!

I have two options for the sprockets divots -  I can ether line them under the hole with flat wood or create individuality rounded divots that I stick behind the holes.  I'm prepared for both options and made this wooden divot template from plywood and created 3-D plaster casts of the holes.  these i'm thinking can be used to make papier-mache moulds of the divot and be cut-up able if I make them in batches.    I'm pretty much decided to go with just wood behind because it is faster and easier and has minimal visual difference.   If I was casting the outer rim in fibreglass (I had enough skill to do that well) it would be easy to out divots in using the plaster casts on the inside of the mould but oh well...

I've also been making end plates for the variable resistor Assembly - I've elected to make one end plate for each end instead of 6 seperate ends - a bit of economy there plus it will hold itself together more easily.   Shouldn't be very noticeable once all put together.


I also got a can of expanding foam to test as a surface texture for the ribs and injected it under the rim to help solidify the piece and I learned a lot, quickly.


The foam expands a heck of a lot!  It also only lasts a few seconds so I blew a $10 can in about 10 seconds and filled only a small area.  As a surface texture it would be good in theory but the swelling would be monstrous so it's not an option.   I'm going to get some 'gorilla glue' next and experiment with spreading some of that over a flat surface, hopefully it will swell and bubble but not to huge heights like the foam.


I've started cutting the sprocket holes out of the rear-most parts of the ring (while I perfect my technique) using a router with a rounded end.  It wanders a little so not an ideal solution but the size is right and with (YET MORE!!) filler I'll tidy those holes up in due course.


So... it's looking pretty much right at this stage but I'd so love to be moving on with more exciting pieces and building something.

I have been looking for garden pots  to upside-down for the central dais bit but have found nothing close to size.   I saw the perfect shape but the pot diameter was only 40cm, about half what I'm looking for.   Looks like I might be scratch building that and I'm considering papier mache over some sort of framework, if only I can make sure the surface is smooth - can you sand papier mache?


Wow this is coming along fast!!!  ;D

Very nice start to the rheostat, and all round looking good!

keep up the good work!



Feb 10, 2013, 07:16 am #24 Last Edit: Feb 10, 2013, 07:22 am by galacticprobe
Yes! And we officially have another case ofEnvy(tiny).jpgon our hands!

Brilliant work, Glen! You rank right up there with M.D. and his build!

(I'm re-doing my sketches yet again because what I've tried to create looks like crap on paper, so I can only imagine how bad it would look when compared to these two beauties, and some of the others I've mentioned. :P)
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"


You can sand papier mache, just use very fine sand paper.


yep thats looking great. nice and tidy.

the mister

someone's been a busy bee! looking profesh.


Hey gang - updates are spaced out because I am not excited at the moment as I spent WAaaay too long working on the outer ring of the console.  I'm drilling small holes and hand cutting the wood between them then sanding that smoother and putting a piece of thin MDF in from behind to simulate the dimples.  I've tried several types of way to do this but all were unsatisfactory so I''m going for practical and hoping that the look is 95% there.

to distract me I've recently started work on the central dais-base part.  I've singularly failed to find a pot of the right shape and size (found a great shape but only 40cm diameter) so decided I had to craft my own.    I thought for weeks about how to build it from plaster or polystyrene or some converted lather but all were dead-ends.  Decided I had to build it from wood so began preparing for an epic day in the workshop.

I broke the design into 1" high sections.  I might be slightly off but I could make panels of MDF into 1" heights (I had 3/4" stock so bought some 1/4" panels to glue to it) and so it became a matter of convenience.

I created a centre pivto for my router and cut sold discs out from my panel.

I then mounted these on a jig I made for my table saw, at various angles, to simulate the curve as the dias climbs.   I had to run the disc through the saw dozens of times and the, when most of the waste was removed, I could edge the disc up to the blade and turn it carefully around until there was a perfect smooth edge.  It was a delicate and possibly unique process but I'm very pleased with the final result.

I'm cutting the centres out of the discs too, using a router to use them as discs at the top for the monitor swing area and also to reduce weight.  

I've broken two router 'heads' so far so need to go slower.   And OH THE DUST!!  

I spent about 7 hours in the workshop to create the stack you see in these pictures.   It's a small part but important to get right so please don't pick too many holes because I'm not re-doing it!  :)


The TARDIS Console, frontios style...



Oh, and another wee piece i'm working on - any guesses?

techno gallifrey

Hey Kiwidoc, nice build! Loving it so far!

Just a question, do you live in New Zealand? Because I know that New Zealanders are known as 'kiwis'