2005/2010 Moveable Outdoor TARDIS Build

[davhoo]

Okay, I have decided to attempt the Herculean task of building my own TARDIS.  (The wife is not thrilled).  I know I want a new series look to the box, with more of the Matt Smith brighter blue and the St. John's Ambulance sticker on the door.  I want it to be sturdy and able to survive the weather, but also to be easily moveable when necessary from indoors to out.

My daughter and I went to Lowe's and started out with purchasing 2x6's that I would cut to form the base, going by the dimensions in Bill Rudloff's excellent plans.  Rather than using pressure treated lumber which is quite heavy, I've decided to use dry lumber and treat it with Linseed Oil before painting it.

The attached picture is our initial look at the frame when we placed the boards down in the design they would go.  What you may notice is that I am making the base in 2 halves which will be bolted together and then split to be moved, helping to deal with the weight.  What we noticed was that it wasn't perfectly square because we hadn't taken into account the width of the shorter boards on the front and back.  This made it 3 inches too long.  Thinking I was clever, I cut the 5 ft boards down to 57 inches each to make a perfect square before remembering that the boards would eventually be mitre cut on a 45 degree angle.  STUPID STUPID!!  Oh well, first mistake!  This will require another trip to the store and possibly writing down plans in the future before I actually begin cutting!

I will post more as the project progresses!

David Hooie[/attach][attachid]Chop Saw.jpg[/attach]

[mulla]

Ahh the mitre-cut screw up... Happy memories!  I learned that for any four sided frame with mitres.... cut 5 pieces!  colourful language and flying tools! 

Good Start though!

[davhoo]

Sorry it's been so long!  I'm about finished with my base (miter cuts and all) and do like the idea of bolting the 2 halves together so I can take it apart and move it easier.  I've also put together 1 of the hollow corner posts and stood it on the base.  You guys aren't kidding!  The TARDIS is TALL!!  I started trying to work out an easy way to connect the hollow posts to the base on each corner.  My Father-in-law suggested taking a 3 ft piece of 6x6 and doing a dado cut on it so the corner post would slide over the slimmer section.  I liked the idea but wasn't crazy about how much weight that would add to my base.

I started looking instead at common PVC pipe.  A 3" diameter pipe is just too thin and a 4" diameter pipe is too wide.  What I needed was something that measured 4" in diameter from the outside of the pipe.  Enter a 3" Pipe coupler!  With that, I also found a way to secure one coupler to the corner of the base and use as the "plug" to connect this custom pipe to, and then slide the hollow post over it.  I've included a picture of my first pipe just a bit over 30" long.

Would appreciate any thoughts, comments or critiques!

David Hooie

[DoctorWho8]

Is this meant to be dismantleable or a permanent attachment?  You can attach 2-3" tall blocks on the base so the corner posts can fit onto. As long as they match the size of the opening of the hollow post, you probably could then either screw the post into the block or drill a couple of holes and use maybe 3/8"-1/2" dowel rods to help keep the posts attached to the blocks.
Bill "the Doctor" Rudloff

[davhoo]

The goal is to be able to dismantle the whole thing, throw it in the van and take it to random places for whatever reason.  (My son is a film student so we might do some shooting with it)

The pipe (pictured) will go into another coupler that is screwed into the base and flush with the plywood so you push the pipe into it and then slide the posts over the pipes.  But I may have to look into your block idea instead.  I was mainly concerned with something that was tall enough to keep the corner posts from wiggling and didn't require screwing it in to hold them down.

[davhoo]

Okay!  Using the Pipe I showed in my last post, I cut out a hole in the corner of my base and secured another PVC conduit under the whole to act as a socket. (See picture for reference).  Then I inserted the pipe securely into the hole on the base, then put the hollow post over the pipe.  This takes some wiggling to get the post all the way down to the base.  Once there, I drive screws in on each side of the corner post that are long enough to go through the side of the PVC pipe making the 2 items once piece.  Now, I can lift and twist my corner post out of the base without dowels or screws and it is amazingly sturdy (and light) when in place.

The pictures below show what I'm talking about.  I'll be finishing up the other 3 posts this weekend (hoping) and then on to the sides!

[Volpone]

Clever! Like a Lego TARDIS!

[davhoo]

I completed the other half of my base (also cutting out the PVC conduit holes in the corners and a second post.  Large wood clamps have become my favorite tool to hold things in place while I am working.  Below is a picture of the full base bolted together and the 2 complete posts (with the other 2 PVC pipes in the remaining slots).  I hope to finish my last 2 corner posts within the week and then move on to the sides of the TARDIS.

Is this what others normally do?  Base - Corner Posts - Sides - Sign Boxes - Roof?

[DoctorWho8]

Is this what others normally do?  Base - Corner Posts - Sides - Sign Boxes - Roof?

Generally, yes.  There are some exceptions.
Bill "the Doctor" Rudloff

[rasalon]

Is this what others normally do?  Base - Corner Posts - Sides - Sign Boxes - Roof?

it depends on what you are using to prop up the other pieces. eg. If you are using the police box sign on top to make sure your post are square then you should build and install those before you do the side panels

[davhoo]

Sorry it's been so long since I've updated!  Holidays and all, plus trying to get episodes of the podcast out as well!

Today, I tackled the 3rd side of my TARDIS which I had mistakenly made too wide before.  I knew I needed to trim the width of the plywood underneath the 1x3's but I didn't want to trim those, so the outer 1x3's had to be removed as carefully as possible since they are wood glued and stapled to the plywood.  Once done, I was able to trim the plywood on the trusty table saw (With my wife's help - she's awesome!) and trim the horizontal 1x3's to accommodate the reduced width, etc.  FINALLY!  My TARDIS has 3 stationary sides and all that's left is building the door side next.

I've attached the latest picture so you can see what one of my 3 sides looks like on the base.  I still need to do windows, sign boxes, and a roof with lamp but I'm trying to focus on what's been done rather than what's left!  Each side is still foldable and removed from the posts by stage hinges that have the L shaped pin in them.  I'm very happy with this because it allows the TARDIS to be moved relatively easy, which I had to do when I had family visiting for Christmas!

I hope to write again soon with more updates.  Would love to hear from anyone who has done the 11th Doctor's windows on what sort of plexiglass or plastic you used because I don't want it to be so clear that people can see the inside of the TARDIS when they look, you know?

[mobius]

Clever! Like a Lego TARDIS!

as soon as I saw those words I had to do an image google search for them, and not shockingly found a few.
interesting construction approach! PVC pipes are used in theatre props sometimes, in not dissimilar ways.
looking good!

[potatotimemachine]

For my build's windows, I bought clear plexiglass and used this stick-on privacy window stuff. You can't see through it at all, and it has that bubble-like texture of the one from the show. That's just what I did, and I'm pretty pleased with the results. Cheap too. Also, if you do decide to do that, cut the plexiglass before applying the privacy window stuff. It really messes it up.

[davhoo]

Having some trouble staying motivated when I think about everything that's still in front of me!  I started painting what was already done and ordered my door sign and St. John's ambulance decal.  Both turned out very nice.  I also started looking online and talking to other builders about lamp options for the top.  I don't mind doing some mods to the lamp if necessary, but I really don't have the budget to throw over $100 at something.

Yesterday I ran to Home Depot (normally I go to Lowe's) to get some paint brushes and wood filler.  On a whim, I walked down the exterior lighting aisle and found this!  It's not a perfect match, but it's darn close!  I'll have to paint it and reroute the wiring to the bottom somehow, but I think this will work for me!  And the best part is that it was only $69.99 (under $100!!)

Let me know what you think.  I have a couple of options, I will remove the handle and leave the top as is, having the bulb hang from the top.  Or, I secure the top as the "bottom" of the lamp (having the bulb feed from the bottom) and then get a more "pointed" top from somewhere to make it look closer to the one on Smith's TARDIS.

Suggestions?  Thoughts?

[galacticprobe]

I like the idea of mounting it upside-down and getting a more pointed top. (I was going to suggest that just before I read that you were already thinking of it.) Having the pointed top on it like that will make it look very close to how the original does.

Also, if you can get the right diameter PVC pipe, or some such object that allows the "real" top of the lamp to sit on it, you could have the wiring hidden in the pipe and when upside-down would give the lamp that extra couple of inches like on the original. (Am I making sense with that? Or do I need to explain it better?)

Dino.