New, New TardisBuilders!
Started by chriskingbees, Feb 12, 2009, 07:44 pm
Quote from: kiwidoc on Sep 02, 2010, 04:17 amIf you guys are interested in a TARDIS Lamp flasher circuit, I'd recommend looking at Jason's as seen here: http://www.asciimation.co.nz/tardis/tardis_light_flasher.jpg (from http://www.asciimation.co.nz/tardis/index.html)Jason built and sent me one as thanks for helping him with his build and it works perfectly- connect to 12volt battery and away she goes. Adjustable flashing rate so you can make the beat of your choice. Not connected up to sound in any way but I'm sure the clever types could figure something out.Cheers, Glen
Quote from: galacticprobe on Sep 02, 2010, 04:30 amMicro-controller based sircuits, with plug-ins for programmable code needed for the flashers? (Scotty - "Star Trek III": "The more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain.")Dino.
Quote from: Theta Sigma on Sep 02, 2010, 11:40 amThis is the same circuit that I used in my 12V "halogen" flasher, except I added a relay between the MOSFET and the bulb due to the high current draw of the halogen bulb. For those of you who want to see the device working:
Quote from: geminitimelord on Sep 02, 2010, 12:37 pmQuote from: Theta Sigma on Sep 02, 2010, 11:40 amThis is the same circuit that I used in my 12V "halogen" flasher, except I added a relay between the MOSFET and the bulb due to the high current draw of the halogen bulb. For those of you who want to see the device working: Kevin, after seeing this I revisited your build diary, you know I sorta wish I would have embraced your design for my TARDIS. I went the route of Glen's manual for my corner posts. I devised a system of blocks as which to connect the panels to the posts. I wish, however in hind sight, I would have realized that once this puppy was up it wasnt going to come down. I would have built my walls to the edge such as you did and secure with a corner bracket. I am curious do you find your box very stable?
Quote from: kiwidoc on Sep 03, 2010, 01:07 amThat does look good, much easier than the loose-pin hinges I've favoured until now. Might have to dig around the hardward store and find something comparable for my next build..
Quote from: Theta Sigma on Sep 03, 2010, 12:53 amWhich build are you referring to, the full size S18 or the 3/4 size NST? I'm not at all happy with the route I went with on my full size S18, and if I ever get back going on that one again, I'm going to change it. I am very happy with the way my 3/4 size NST came out, and it is easily dis-assembled and it very sturdy and stable. I used window latches to attach the walls to the posts just like "UncleLew" did. I don't think he's a member of this forum, but he has a YouTube build diary. Here is the relevant video showing the window latches: This method works amazingly well! I will be using the same method if I ever get around to resuming my full size build.The posts are attached to the base via triangle corner braces, and hangar bolts. The posts are easily removed by taking off a couple of hex nuts.
Quote from: geminitimelord on Sep 03, 2010, 04:53 amUncleLew was on TR2 under Moonbeam or something like that.
Quote from: chriskingbees on Sep 03, 2010, 01:23 pmHey chaps, no worries.I'll just throw this picture into the mix, to remind you that our grest leader has eyes everywhere KB
Quote from: Scarfwearer on Sep 03, 2010, 07:22 pmAnd apparently only three fingers...
Quote from: rassilonsrod on Sep 04, 2010, 07:16 amQuote from: Scarfwearer on Sep 03, 2010, 07:22 pmAnd apparently only three fingers... So you're obviously the "Simpsons" Doctor