B4DW0LF's TARDIS - Tucson Az

[willfleming]

I used bondo on all the edges and seams on my roof because no matter what I did it leaked and soaked up water. ever sence I used the bondo the leakes stopped, the only problem I have now is that I have a couple of spots on the sides of the roof that bubble up on me but thats because I ran out for bondo to smooth everything and used indoor outdoor spackle (DUMB) the bubles fill with water when it rain so i ill have to fix that soon.but no leaks inside anymore

[galacticprobe]

I can see where it comes in from on the inside but Ive coated the outside so many times I just dont understand how its still leaking. Im going out to buy some of that spray plastic and put a coat all over the effected area....

Double check everything. I know from having a few leaky house roofs in my lifetime that water travels. It could be showing up in one place, but leaking from another. You think you've got all possible areas covered because of where the leak is appearing, but then you find out the leak is in another area and the water is traveling along a joint or beam before finally showing itself.

In one house I had a leak in the roof over the living room, but it was dripping through the kitchen ceiling. It drove me crazy because I couldn't find any "leak spots" over the kitchen. It wasn't until I crawled around the attic with a torch, following the water during a rain storm that I found the leak source, and how it travelled from there to the drip spot.

("Water is patient... Water just waits. Wears down the cliff tops, the mountains. The whole of the world. Water always wins." - 10th Doctor, 'Waters of Mars')

Dino.

[b4dw0lf]

double and triple checked... the problem is, the heat here drys out the fillers and such and with that the leak comes back.  So Im contantly making repairs.... luckily winter is coming and the heat has dropped a bit.

But come April Ill be back out there making the same repairs....

oh well...

for now heres a photo of me, the TARDIS and K9



Paul

[DoctorWho8]

You know what, you can always blame ghosts for attacking your TARDIS.
Bill "the Doctor" Rudloff

[b4dw0lf]

I could do that.... But then someone would want proof and that just opens a whole new can of worms.....

[willfleming]

I put bondo on all my seams..it worked great UNTIL I moved my Tardis acrossed the yard and than the leaks started.It's to late in the season for me to fix so once the winter breaks I think I'm either going to rap it or use fiberglass Like Larry C. suggested.

[larry cain]

Will or Paul let me know I have a whole roll of rigid fiberglass mat I can send to you guys free the roll is 5' by 200' long so I got yah covered BTW it was a freebie so not a big deal. This is a permanent fix. I can cut off a nice big piece place it in a shipping tube and that is that.
Just let me know, I was going to send Paul a big ole piece and let him decide if he wants to use it. Then I got busy,

[Volpone]

A caulk should not dry out. I don't know what your leak sources look like, but if you shoot caulk into them, it is flexible enough and will bond with the edges.  At least in theory.  The latex caulks that are paintable (and less expensive) require some curing time and I've had less luck with them than a more expensive, nonpaintable silicone caulk.  And truth be told, leak hunting is a continuous affair. 

Do you have any ventilation for the interior?  Because that could help.  No matter what you do, you're going to get some moisture inside.  Vents can help with that.  And it should help equalize inside temperatures with outside temperatures.  Yes, when you are fighting leaks it is scary and counterintuitive to start making *holes* in your box, but it has helped get rid of mold in my TARDIS. 

Right now I've got a plastic vapor barrier under mine (be sure it is shorter than the box footprint or else it will instead collect rainwater and funnel it under the TARDIS) and a free-floating floor that allows for some ventilation.  My door is far from watertight as well.  Finally, I've got an air hole directly under the lamp--engineered in such a way that any water that runs down the sides of the lamp can drain onto the roof instead of into the TARDIS.  I've considered ventilating the undersides of the lintel signs, but haven't needed to do that yet. 

[larry cain]

If your set on caulk I would use Quad this stuff will stop running water, I used some years back one winter when my neighbors house had ice dam build up and water came thru the windows. Not after I caulked it,, not sure where it went after that lol, This was an extreme condition and only happen a couple times over the years here in Michigan
BTW I did not caulk the window it was the areas above where the trim was letting water thru.