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A Met Box Build

Started by fivefingeredstyre, May 01, 2011, 06:10 pm

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Retro lord

Outstanding work! I'm building a 1\6 met box with a view to building a full size, the construction of yours is almost identical, uncanny! My 1\6 was going to be a practice session for a full scale build, looking at yours, I can see it should work

fivefingeredstyre

Regular Bi-annual maintenance and refit time...

As I've said previously I've been chasing the rot on the left hand side of my box. It's a constant battle, as this is the side that gets less natural ventilation thanks to the large tree I sited the Box against. The rot will have set in years back but taken quite a while to manifest itself; however hopefully I'm reaching a point where I've caught most of it...

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So I cleaned out all the wet, rotten wood and attacked what was left with hardner and let it dry out for a couple of weeks.

The I made some formers on the laser cutter and attacked everything with filler...

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Once the resin had cured I pulled away the formers and gave it a light sanding and this is as far as I've got so far...

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I've still got loads to do, so more updates will follow when I get time...


russellsuthern

Hey,Steve,

Great to see you are keeping up with the maintenance on this one.

It's one of my favourite boxes on TB.

It is always very interesting to see how people keep their boxes in good condition.

I'm looking forward to seeing some photos of the completed refit.

Regards,


Russell

fivefingeredstyre

Quote from: russellsuthern on Jul 03, 2021, 05:41 pmI'm looking forward to seeing some photos of the completed refit.
Ha! So am I!!!

There's a lot to do. Not just on the outside, the inside needs some real work as well. Condensation and mould growth a plenty! as well as reinforcing support pillars and replacing the floor (again).

I'd like to find a way of getting the box lifted, so that could get some plastic shims under it to get it off the ground  and allow more ventilation underneath; however I'm not sure its going to be possible without damaging the structure...


russellsuthern

Hmm...

Yes, that is a tricky one...

Where's a squad of Cybermen when you need them?

Hopefully a solution will present itself.  :)


Regards,

Russell

kutan66

Wedges could help you?

Wedges are good for moving/lifting/removing things. 

You could make 12 or 16 slim wedges.  About 2 foot long.  Maybe 2" to a point.  And maybe 2" or 3" wide.

Pop them under the box.. 3 or 4 on each side.  (With left and right one under the corner posts).

Then go around the box, giving each wedge a tap as you go.

Then once you are high enough, slip something plastic (with holes in for drainage) under.

If you're replacing the old floor, you could also wedge from the inside too?

Hope you manage to get rid of your soft wood and soggy bottom! :-)

Ian

redfern

Oh...mercy!  Seeing those first 4 shots is like seeing a beloved relative or friend waste away in a hospital bed!  :'(  I know I shouldn't "play favorites", but like Russell, this box is one of my fan built favorites, wherever it gets displayed.  ;D  So to see all that literal rot is just heartbreaking!  :'(

I realize situations arise that take priority (and should) like family and finances.  But I'm relieved you still like it enough to expend the effort on repairs.   :)

Sincerely,

Bill

fivefingeredstyre

Quote from: redfern on Jul 04, 2021, 02:37 pmI realize situations arise that take priority (and should) like family and finances.  But I'm relieved you still like it enough to expend the effort on repairs.   :)
The Mrs asked me earlier why I just don't make another box instead...

It just wouldn't be the same... ;)

fivefingeredstyre

Quote from: kutan66 on Jul 04, 2021, 11:16 amWedges could help you?

Wedges are good for moving/lifting/removing things. 

You could make 12 or 16 slim wedges.  About 2 foot long.  Maybe 2" to a point.  And maybe 2" or 3" wide.

Pop them under the box.. 3 or 4 on each side.  (With left and right one under the corner posts).

Then go around the box, giving each wedge a tap as you go.

Then once you are high enough, slip something plastic (with holes in for drainage) under.

If you're replacing the old floor, you could also wedge from the inside too?

Hope you manage to get rid of your soft wood and soggy bottom! :-)

Ian
:D

I'd thought about wedges as well, there is a slight overhang at the from where the base of the TARDIS sits on the concrete slab beneath.

I was wondering if I could make a start there and hopefully that would be enough to slide a few more in whilst I work my way round the edges..? Alternatively I've also got a 1 Tonne engine hoist I can play with, which might help with lifting the base if I can find something strong enough to slide under the box and act as a pivot, once I've got the wedges in...

I always find with these things that necessity is the mother of invention. As long as I have a few half decent ideas rattling around my head, when it comes to actually carrying out the task I can usually find a way to pull it off closer to the time :D

Volpone

Jul 04, 2021, 03:59 pm #204 Last Edit: Jul 04, 2021, 04:02 pm by Volpone
[puts on thinking cap]
Has idea.  Has better idea.  Goes back and rereads earlier post. 

OK.  Given the caveat about damaging the structure, I don't think either of these ideas will work, but they might spark another idea.  Actually, the first idea that I was discounting for being unnecessarily complex might work.  Actually either could work.   

The trouble with TARDISes is the inward-opening door.  Makes any kind of structure inside difficult.  That said, you could put a framework of crossbars about a foot off the ground and then slip 1-3 small car jacks under them and use them to lift the structure.  But, no.  Because you probably have a floor and all you'd do is either rip the floor off or rip out the framework the jacks were under. 

But how about screwing a kind of cleat or lip to the base on each side.  Then you could use a fulcrum and a lever wedged under the cleat to lift one side at a time.  If you lift from the center of each side and work opposite sides (front, back, right) instead of going around sequentially (left, not front, right, back, left) you can probably avoid any warping. 

My box got significantly warped and damaged in the recent move, but it hasn't been as well cared for as many of the outside boxes still extant that are of similar age (including yours).  And it took a lot more abuse than some careful levering.  It got slid onto a trailer, slid off the trailer, then it got wheels temporarily mounted under it (which involved not-so-careful levering) so it could be pushed 30-40' and down a slight grassy slope.  With all that, it is in place, repaired, and looking as good as it ever has. 
"You know, the very powerful and the very stupid have one thing in common. They don't alters their views to fit the facts, they alter the facts to fit the views, which can be uncomfortable if you happen to be one of the facts that needs altering."
-The Doctor,
"Face of Evil."

fivefingeredstyre

Quote from: Volpone on Jul 04, 2021, 03:59 pmBut how about screwing a kind of cleat or lip to the base on each side.
Actually, this spawns a really good idea!

I have the engine hoist - I could screw some ring bolts on to the front face of the base and lift it from there. This would have the effect of tipping the box back on it's rear face. I only have to lift the front by about 4 inches to give me all the clearance I need to get the acrylic shims in at strategic points under the TARDIS.

Once its settled back into place the bolts can be removed and fillered over!

Thanks mate! I think that's problem solved!

It will be a few weeks before I get to this point; however more news as it comes...

 

Volpone

Ah-ha!  You really only need to lift 1 side.  You just need to lift it high enough that you can get your shims far enough back that, when you lower it back down, it rocks the opposite edge up off the ground.  Then you can pop some shims under that edge for support.  Quite clever. 

I mean, my initial idea was clever, but you radically simplified it.  The 2 concerns are lifting an edge so far that the whole thing tips over (unlikely and could be guarded against with a safety rope higher up if it was actually deemed a valid risk) and parts of the base being too fragile.  If the base that gets the eyebolts isn't secure, it could get ripped off and if the base all the weight is going on isn't secure, it could get rolled under.  I think both are unlikely, but putting it out there as a brainstorm and something to keep an eye on so you can abort if they are looking problematic. 
"You know, the very powerful and the very stupid have one thing in common. They don't alters their views to fit the facts, they alter the facts to fit the views, which can be uncomfortable if you happen to be one of the facts that needs altering."
-The Doctor,
"Face of Evil."

fivefingeredstyre

Quote from: Volpone on Jul 05, 2021, 03:52 amThe 2 concerns are lifting an edge so far that the whole thing tips over (unlikely and could be guarded against with a safety rope higher up if it was actually deemed a valid risk) and parts of the base being too fragile.  If the base that gets the eyebolts isn't secure, it could get ripped off and if the base all the weight is going on isn't secure, it could get rolled under.  I think both are unlikely, but putting it out there as a brainstorm and something to keep an eye on so you can abort if they are looking problematic. 
I was thinking the same thing. I might lift it from the right side as there is the massive fern tree I can use to stop it falling over if it gets unstable and topples. To be honest the only way that will happen is if I pivot it over its centre of gravity, which I am pretty sure that - given its height, relative to its width - is a bit higher than the 100-200mm I need to pivot it...

I'm a little concerned about the fragility of the base's bevelled fascia. Its designed to be sacrificial so that if it rots it can be replaced. I originally covered it with Fiberglass in the hope that it would make it last longer; however all this has done is made the wood sweat. When I treated the rot a couple of years back I stripped the wood right down to the where it was at its most solid. Hopefully the underside of the fascia is still in good enough condition to take the pivot, but the weakest side is actually the left side which I will be pivoting on...

If I proceed slowly enough I can keep an eye on things as I'm going.

I hope...

fivefingeredstyre

Jul 18, 2021, 10:28 am #208 Last Edit: Jul 18, 2021, 10:30 am by fivefingeredstyre
Yesterdays progress. More filling and sanding...

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Once thing I have noticed is how much water has seeped in through the paint over the last 11 years or so. Some of the wood is really quite wet, which is why I'm getting the rot problem. Ideally I'd like to get as much of the "blue" off as I can around the left side and rear and let it sit, exposed for as long I can to properly dry out before I give it the re-paint.

However this is how we are currently looking...

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Which makes me a little sad.

I am umming and ahhing about painting the window frames blue though...

russellsuthern

Jul 18, 2021, 11:40 am #209 Last Edit: Jul 18, 2021, 11:46 am by russellsuthern
Don't be sad!

I think the box is looking great & your repair work is coming along swimmingly.

She'll soon be back to her former glory!

As for painting the windows blue...

NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Go for white windows & a super-dark gloss blue for the woodwork.

(You will be one of us....You will become like us.....  ;)   )

Can't wait to see more!!


Russell