NST2010

[pmc]

Ok so it's been a while  , life just seems to get in the way and every time you get one thing sorted something else comes along to take its place. The upshot being that my blue box build gets pushed further back.

Even though it's been a year since my last update things have been slowly happening, mainly getting everything in place to allow me to finally start. One of my problems was a location where I could actually do the build, this was resolved by converting the garage into my workshop. The other issue was having the tools available to do the job right. They say a bad workman always blames his tools but having the right ones certainly helps. I have spent a bit of cash buying a saw table and saw, router, belt sander and other bits and pieces that I think I will need.

I would just like to mention PHILIPW, I have been reading all about his build on the RPF http://www.therpf.com/f9/my-new-series-dr-who-tardis-build-image-heavy-99629/ website and it is truly inspirational. His detailed picture's, along with excellent commentary, is a joy to read. He has definitely had an impact on some of the methods that I am going to use. I urge you if you haven't done so already to take a look at his build, you truly will be in awe.

Right let's get down to business. After weeks of measuring, comparing and extrapolating I managed to get my final dimensions. I'd like to share these with you but you know the rules.

Next thing was to figure out what wood to use and where to get it. I decided to go for Redwood, this is kiln dried and can be used outside as long as a suitable wood care treatment is applied. And even better I can get it delivered. I realised I could get away with just two sizes, 144mm X 20.5mm could be used for the posts and sign boxes and maybe some of the roof and 94mm X 20.5mm could be used for the door rails and stiles along with other parts of the roof. I also got 18mm exterior plywood for the sides, doors and floor and 6mm exterior plywood that will be used for the roof.

The base will be made by laminating 4 of the 144mm X 20.5mm boards together to create the required size.

The wood was ordered and a week later my flat pack Tardis arrived, minus the instructions 



I needed to store the plywood upright so decided to hold the pack together with clamps to try and stop any warping. Also I don't think I have ordered enough of the 144mm X 20.5mm boards but will sort this out later.

Last Sunday (17th July ) I eventually got underway. My first job was to build the four corner posts. I will use the same method as PHILIPW in his build although I will not be using biscuits but instead a dado joint on all corners.

Below I'm cutting the dado recess out of each board:





These boards will be arranged like this:



I next needed to consider glue, I found out that normal wood PVA glue isn't waterproof and can degrade in extreme heat or cold. This kind of worried me as I don't want the thing falling apart due to wood glue choice. I noticed PHILIPW used Gorilla Glue, apparently this isn't temperature sensitive and also is waterproof. This glue is water activated and does foam, the foaming action can be useful to fill any imperfections in the woof. To apply I first wet the wood with a water spray then applied a line of the glue:



It was at this point that I intended to clamp the whole thing together but found this tricky having to do four pieces at once plus I didn't have as many clamps as I needed. Another point was that even though the boards are fairly flat some do have a minor warp. To solve this I decided to use screws. This pulled the wood into shape and also meant I only needed clamps while applying the screws. The screws were countersunk so I could cover them with wood filler later.







Once all four corner posts were constructed they were left for the glue to activate and dry.

As I said the Gorilla Glue is activated by water and does foam out. This meant that I needed to clean the excess off after it had dried which was about 2 hours later.



This is easily cut away with a sharp knife but I found a better way was to use a filler knife:



The posts are nearly there:



The posts are 2440mm long so need cut down to 2280mm. I also need to fill in the counter sunk screws. Once done I can then lightly sand the surface.


In the meantime my lamp is finally finished, apart from it needs painting:



The only issue I had here was that the original top of the main lamp is screwed into the body from the top. This meant that I needed to cut two holes in the attached lantern top so the lid could be screwed on. There isn't a water ingress problem here as the top is sealed but for aesthetics I may make small covers for these holes later on.



Another thing I have been considering is paint. Although I'm basing my Tardis on the 2010 revision I'm not sure I want to make the wood grain as prominent as on the prop. My main consideration here is to make the thing weather proof. Reviewing JAGUWA68 build, which again is top class, I noted that he used Cuprinol Garden Shades Iris Blue. I managed to get hold of this and have painted two coats on a tester piece of wood.











It's hard to see the true colour with the fluorescent lights and camera flash but you can see the grain and the colour match is quite good. I intend to finish this with a clear coat of varnish just to maximise protection.

Lastly, having seen the size of the actual prop (promotional prop) at the BBC, even though very big it's not until you get it in the home environment that you realise how big it's going to be. I am only going to be able to build the base and attach the corner posts and sign boxes but won't be able to attach the Tardis roof while in the garage. I will have to figure out what to do later. Meanwhile I have a full size print of the Tardis, one half of which I have put up on the wall at exactly the right height.



As you can see the roof isn't going to go on in the garage.

Anyway that's it for now and I'm sorry it's been such a long time since I started this post, hopefully it won't be as long until the next one 

[geminitimelord]

Welcome Back PMC..... I was just thinking about you the other day and your plans to do a build after you visited the BBC Studios and got those great shots of the Matt Smith Box.  I really am looking forward to watching this build evolve.

Also I agree with you on PhillipW's awesome build. I did catch one note in your diary about countersinking the screws on your posts and using wood putty to fill them in. I am not sure yet if you plan on putting this build outside or inside but if you do have any plans of going out into the weather you might want to consider a latex caulk that can be painted as opposed to the wood putty. I did the wood putty thing on my build and the wood putty abosorbed moisture and expanded pushing out my paint and creating more of a mess. So far the latex caulk is holding up very well.

[pmc]

Thanks its nice to be back. Thanks for the filler advice geminitimelord, I'm at the point where I need to fill in these holes so I'll look at using your suggestion. My box will be an outside box, I will not be making it so it can be assembled and disassembled so I guess that makes it easier for me but the flip side of this is that I do need to make it water tight.

Another thing I'm debating is do I route out the pattern at the top of the outer face of each post? I have bought a router but haven't had any experience using it. It would be a nice touch but I could ruin the post and have to start again. Not having this outer pattern won't be noticed too much.

[geminitimelord]

You know seeing PhillipW's Build and noticing your posts I wondered if you were going to do that accent. I have no experience with a Router, I had my neighbor do the only router stuff carving out my lamp assembly. My suggestion, if you haven't already thought of it, take some scrap wood and make sure your pattern gives you what you need. I am sure after some trial and error you will be confident to do the post and have it look as it should.

Since you are building for outdoors then definitely use the Latex Paintable Caulk. I caulked the joins for my roof and sign boxes and the sides of the walls where they meet my corner posts a simple bead smoothed out and then painted, you cannot even tell it was caulked and so far, after a year in the elements, it is holding up excellent! The only maintenance I have needed to do is where I didn't get it thick enough and it started to separate, simply put more caulk and paint over it, Works very well.

Keep the passion going, the reward when you get that coat of blue and assemble the box is priceless!!

[pmc]

OK so today I added the detail to all four corner posts. First thing was to make a jig or pattern that I could use with my router to make the top detail. Here is the jig:



There are a couple of elements in the jig that can be reversed to allow for each aspect of the top detail.

Now came the time to use the router. Let me just say that having just bought this power tool I have never used one before. I was very nervous of making a mistake and ruining a post. I did have a practice on some scrap wood but even so I was a bit reluctant. Anyway I soon got the hang of it and some time later had all four posts done. The next thing was to add the detail that runs from top to bottom, a quick change of router bit and again some time later all four posts were done.







Last thing to do was to add the 45 degree angle to the outer corner on each post, another router bit change and all four posts were done.



I'm quite pleased the way the detailing went and am very satisfied with the results.

[superrichi1a]

Respect to Phillip, but this build you've got here, I think, could be set to knock his build off the top spot of most accurate builds, if only for the reason his was originally a Tennant, then had to be changed and reworked into a Smith.
Your attention to detail is brilliant, and your work so far is superb. A word to the wise, though. The Iris paint may not be as good a choice as it seems at first. After 1 or 2 coats, it looks lovely, but if you add too many, as you'll have to to protect it from the elements, the grain all but disappears, and the shade lightens several notches. With a build such as this I think it would be a shame not to use the correct "Subaru Liberty Blue".
But anyway, your progress so far is abseloutly fantastic! You know, seeing professional-looking builds like this is always nice, and always slightly sad for me, because I could never hope to match it with my mess of a TARIDS...

[geminitimelord]

I would say for someone being nervous about using the Router you seem to have done an excellent job mate!

Many of us did this project as a First major build project. While I wish I could go back and rebuild my box because I know where and what mistakes I made yet still I am told it is one of the best looking on the board. Just goes to show we are usually our worst critics.

Take risks, learn as you go and in the end I am positive you will have a box that looks awesome!

[DoctorWho8]

It's really looking good.  Now to make the other 100 parts.
Bill "the Doctor" Rudloff

[philipw]

Just saw this thread. It's very nice work you have going there.

Thought I should mention a couple things. Titebond III PVA glue is waterproof and tests better than gorilla glue for outdoor wood to wood bonds. Gorilla glue used to be the standard until Titebond III came along. I used Gorilla glue when attaching wood to pvc, as that's an excellent application for it. You can't go wrong using it like you did either, so no worries there.

Super.... My build was always a smith build, but when into it I came to realize the assumed wood I used for this (spruce) would only lend itself to and burning it or sandblasting and was going to be necessary, so thus was born the hybrid. Smith dimensions / windows / paint and Tennent weathered wood.

I'm anxious to see your build progress.

[superrichi1a]

@PhlillipW, I'm worried I offended you now. I was under the impression that seeing as you started your build with Tennant wood, you had originally planned it to be a Tennant, I didn't mean that it was originally a Tennant, but then modified to be a Smith. Sorry if I was wrong. You're build is still the best yet, and I prefer it to the official BBC Smith.

[philipw]

Super... not in the least. I just wanted to clarify. I'm quite happy with the way it all came down, and I'm not sure I'd change a thing about the whole evolution of it. I'm in the process of building an outdoor Tennent all from oak for a friend, and interestingly, this one won't be weathered, but should be completely able to withstand the north Texas elements. It's as though something keeps me from a build that's not a hybrid.

However, the next one I build will be completely a Smith. We'll see when that comes about though.

[pmc]

Super, I bow down to philips superior carpentry skills, I'm a novice with a bit of practical skill. If my build turns out as good as his then I would be extremely pleased but thanks for your comments. With regards to paint, the Subaru Liberty Blue is quite expensive, £22 for a 400ml spray can. I'm not sure what the coverage of this would be but think I would need quite a few cans. The other thing is protection, I will have to look to see what the best method would be if I used the spray paint as opposed to the proper wood preserver.

Philip thanks for the further wood glue advice. Iv just ordered A 16oz tub of Titan Bond III to see how it performs. I do like the Gorilla glue but did feel I would rather use a more traditional type of wood glue so the Titan Bond should be great.

Paul.

[galacticprobe]

PMC, I don't know how auto dealers work in the UK, but in the US you can usually get a small bottle (like a large nail polish bottle) of touch-up paint from a dealer for just a few dollars. You could try getting one of those in Liberty Blue from a Subaru dealer, brush some on a scrap piece of wood, and then once it's dried take that piece to a paint/home improvement store and see if they could color match it. Most places can these days and then you could get a larger amount for probably less than £22. Granted, it would be in a can and need a brush to paint it on, or if you've got a paint sprayer you could use that.

Just a thought.
Dino.

[philipw]

I didn't realize this was your build PMC. Something odd about the way the forum doesn't show you the name of the person who started the thread when you're reading the last posts.

Your photos of the BBC promo tardis were a great help to me when I was setting my build dimensions.

If you need a sample of the subaru paint on a board let me know and I'll do one up for you and send it over.

[pmc]

Hi Philip, thanks for the paint swatch offer but i took Galacticprobes advice and ordered a tester pot of the Subaru paint. I got my Titebond III glue today so look forward to giving it a try soon.

Hopefully I will get my posts finally finished at the weekend then I can make a start on the base.

Paul.