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New series TARDIS build

Started by Seb Harvey, Aug 05, 2023, 02:17 pm

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Seb Harvey

I've embarked on a new series TARDIS build.  I'm building off the official 2005 plans, but have adapted it so that the finished box will look more like the Capaldi tardis (something about the blank and white windows looks great).

Here are my progress pics.

Made from Redwood - most of the box will be made from this and marine ply as they're great for outdoor projects.  Anything touching the ground will be made from treated timber while the rest of the box will have a generous coverage of wood preserver and then a high-quality paint system.

First - columns.  These were made from four lapped planks, strengthened using dowels (the vison for this box is not to have any visible screws, so where possible, I'm aiming for strong glued joints and dowels. The columns are to sit over pegs in the base, so it was important to ensure the columns don't split. I've then filled any holes or gaps with a high-quality outdoor wood filler and sanded smooth.  I've then routered out the pattern along the face edges.

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Will post progress pics as I go!

Volpone

I love all the builds here.  I love when someone paints a refrigerator box blue because they're trying their best and realizing their dream, but I definitely enjoy a build by someone who clearly knows something about carpentry.  Seeing the joins notched for added strength--and then dowels added.  This is going to be fun to watch. 
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

Seb Harvey

Next on the TARDIS build - the base and pegs that the columns are to be seated on.  The wood for the base is all treated timber as this will have direct contact to the ground.  I intend to add a decorative outer piece on with the trademark bevel.

The pegs were made from 100x100 posts and trimmed down to the size of the inner columns.  Each one is custom to the column.  I created a jig to make this step a little easier.

The base was constructed with screws - the only part of the project I intend to use them!  But the finished result will have them all hidden.

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And one with the post in place - this thing is going to be bigger than I thought!

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Seb Harvey

So more recent progress.

The façade on the base has been installed, routered back, planed and sanded.  I don't have a table saw or anything that could cut this angle for me, so all done by hand. Then filled any gaps and tidied up.

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I also recently visited the BBC Birmingham public space as part of my build.  They have an Ecclestone TARDIS on display which you can get right up to.  So as part of the build I went along to see one in person and get a sense of the size, detail, etc.

I know there is a reference part of this forum (which I've found to be invaluable), but seeing the real thing was definitely helpful.  For example, I'd not appreciated there was a 10mm bevel along the side of the outer corner of the columns!

I've included the pics here as it's part of my build diary / journey.

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And I wish I'd taken a tape measure with me!  But here I am taking some very specific measurements!

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alextheyellowthing

Quote from: Seb Harvey on Aug 07, 2023, 03:06 pmSo more recent progress.

The façade on the base has been installed, routered back, planed and sanded.  I don't have a table saw or anything that could cut this angle for me, so all done by hand. Then filled any gaps and tidied up.

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I also recently visited the BBC Birmingham public space as part of my build.  They have an Ecclestone TARDIS on display which you can get right up to.  So as part of the build I went along to see one in person and get a sense of the size, detail, etc.

I know there is a reference part of this forum (which I've found to be invaluable), but seeing the real thing was definitely helpful.  For example, I'd not appreciated there was a 10mm bevel along the side of the outer corner of the columns!

I've included the pics here as it's part of my build diary / journey.

20230121_144420524_iOS.jpg

20230121_144425941_iOS.jpg

20230121_144656027_iOS.jpg

20230121_144715499_iOS.jpg

20230121_144938887_iOS.jpg

20230121_145119017_iOS.jpg

And I wish I'd taken a tape measure with me!  But here I am taking some very specific measurements!

My project-1.jpg

 

That's a cool sporting, it looks like one of the promo's fiber glass replicas. It was casted out of the sides of one of the 2 props at the time. Tho be care full, it's doors, being made out of that side molde, are inaccurate, having more square panels then the real ones at the time.

Seb Harvey

Update on recent progress.

Installed the architrave on the columns.  The walls and doors will press against this once done.  The architrave along the top edge of the doors/walls will be installed on the underside of the sign boxes.  Also installed retaining blocks on the top of the columns which the sign boxes will rest on / be attached too.

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Also started the construction of the sign boxes.

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Which means I can start to assemble the thing the garage.  Clearly, it will need to move outdoors soon!

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russellsuthern

Looking really good!!

They are big bu****s, aren't they?!


Russ

Seb Harvey

Finally was able to assemble the box outside - got a break between rain!

Discovered one of the columns has developed a slight twist, which made attaching the sign boxes one two sides a little difficult.  May need to replace the column in question - so will need to keep an eye on that. 

Good news is that the joins are tight.  I've followed the drop-pin/hinge methods so that I can keep the box modular - seems to work well.

The sign boxes need tiding up - still need to attach the architrave to the bottom of the box and add in the end-caps.

In the meantime, I've started on the walls/doors.  Will attach some pics of that soon.

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Seb Harvey

Started work on the walls/doors.  I've decided to go for a panel and frame approach - rather than nailing strips of wood to a huge piece of ply.

Each wall/door will be made from 9mm hardwood marine ply and the frames will be made from 44x69 timber - this will allow a good 20mm for the bevel and recess on the panel and give enough to leave a nice panel effect on the back. 

I've decided on this method because I want the inside of the box to look just as good as the outside (rather than a plane flat wall with squares cut out for the windows).

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alextheyellowthing

Will you torch the wood to bring out the grain?
It looks really good so far :)

Seb Harvey

Aug 17, 2023, 08:07 am #10 Last Edit: Aug 17, 2023, 08:10 am by Seb Harvey
Starting to feel like progress is being made.  8 frame and panel doors gluing up nicely.

In the meantime, I've started the tackle the roof (lots of thought has gone into this, so hopefully it all works out.

The initial lower layers were relatively straightforward to put together.

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Next it was time to work out the hypotenuse of the roof from the top of the light box to edge.  The magic number was 525.6mm!  The below is working out the width of one side of the roof from a cross section, where the height from the bottom of the roof to the top is 110mm and the width from the light box to the edge being 514mm.  This gives me the measurement for the length of one side of the slope.

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Next was to work out the angle of cut for the diagonal cuts.  8.5 degrees was the magic number.

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There's a slight lip on the attached roof - I will plane that off later and fill in any gaps with wood filler.

Seb Harvey

Some small work done on the sign boxes to tidy up the edges and install a back panel on the protruding ends which sit over the columns.  This should help prevent water sitting on the back side of the box and causing premature rot. 

Should have really factored this in during the initial design of the boxes so the panel could be lapped in better rather that butt joints.  However, it's not structural and no strength is required, so hopefully this achieves the result.

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Volpone

Ah, so it IS an outdoor box.  When I was looking at the beautifully executed roof, I thinking that overhang might be worth keeping (although it would probably look just "off" enough that I'd wind up removing it) to serve as a "drip edge" so water drips off the roof instead of running down the sides.  Of course as I type this I realize the sloped part of the roof is just over additional steps so it is going to run down the sides regardless. 

Anyhow, don't beat yourself up too much about not planning for weather.  Most of us don't know enough about weather effects to plan for them.  And some of us that attempt to factor in weather wind up doing exactly the wrong thing anyway. 

If there's any way you can get even a slight slope to the top edges of all your steps, that will be a big aid to fight water intrusion.  Any flat surface allows water to pool up against the sides and work on the paint and the joins until if finds a way in.  I learned that the hard way because I didn't bevel any of the trim (to keep things simple) and the interior plywood rotted away right where the trim is on the outside. 
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

davidnagel

So neat and tidy !!!
Regards
David

Seb Harvey

Next on the build was to assemble the walls and complete the decorative bevel on the frame and install the pairmaker on the walls and doors.

A dry assemble of the box will be next now that the base, columns, roof, sign boxes and walls are now complete.

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