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1929 Trench build Tutukaka NZ

Started by Oor Wullie, Apr 06, 2022, 09:36 pm

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Oor Wullie

Mar 13, 2023, 09:06 pm #255 Last Edit: Mar 13, 2023, 09:12 pm by Oor Wullie
I'll do a couple of posts today since the sign box painting is a step by step process. After doing the priming, I put painters tape on the inside edges of the acrylic sign grooves in order to keep the inside shelves white for good light bounce.

I did two coats of blue around the lip so when I paint the rest blue, once the signs are in place and the top plates are screwed down, I won't have any splash on the signs.

The joins where the butt ends and top plate meet have been left unprimed or else I risk having two blobby paint edges meeting. Once joined, I'll prime that face and then do two coats of blue over the lot.

I did have a few bristle streaks of blue which went beyong the tape so I freshened that up with some white. Once that dries, I get screwing. Since I'll countersink the screws and putty them, I'll need to prime the putty, so two more drying steps.

Finally I'll put in the waterproof edge plastic beading between the outer groove and the acrylic. Thinking of a light bit of wood glue between the outer lip of the beading and the outer edge of the groove, although the fit is tight enough.

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Painters tape for the blue sign surround blue two coats.

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White touch up paint on the inner shelves where there were a few blue streaks.

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Inside edges of the plates made white plus more priming of the grain paint-absorbing end cuts.

Now it dries and I wait.

Oor Wullie

Phase two done. Signs in grooves. Countersinking holes, screwing, putty, sanding and priming. The hardest thing was meant to be the easiest. The rubber beading around the signs was very stubborn in places where there was pinch or paint between sign and groove. Using dish soap to lube it and sheer determination paid off. The two blue coats tomorrow methinks.

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Volpone

I feel ya.  My ancient car has vinyl insets on the doors and over the years the glue has let go so I had the bright idea to get that rubber spline material they use to put screens on doors and windows; thought I'd just press it in.  It was like trying to put a sweater on a cat. 
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

Rassilons Rod

Quote from: Volpone on Mar 14, 2023, 01:41 pmIt was like trying to put a sweater on a cat. 

😂😂😂😂
In the cities in the streets there's a tension you can feel,
The breaking strain is fast approaching, guns and riots.
Politicians gamble and lie to save their skins,
And the press get fed the scapegoats,
Public Enema Number One.

Oor Wullie

And ready to roll. I'll have them up tomorrow morning.

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Oor Wullie

Problem solving over a morning coffee. I'll mount the sign boxes today, promised rain now changed to clear. I was hesitant to clamp the boxes to the columns while I screw them in for fear of damaging the fresh paint job. I'll use baking paper between clamp and paint. Nothing sticks to that stuff.

The other concern is what I read from some TARDIS builders. That water will find a way in, even along the threads of screws. I usually run a screw over a bar of soap to relieve friction and reduce torque.

I'm going to attach the boxes by screwing from the inside of the columns, through to the sign box end plates. Due to nothing ever being truly square, there will be at least some gaps for the rain. I'm going to use some bolt grease to permanently keep water from the holes. Though an upward screw holds better, I'll go in straight for less water flow. Future proofing is what the Doctor does best.

Oor Wullie

Sucess! Four sign boxes up plus I test fit the roof tier 1, which fit but with a small squeeze which ruins the perfect square. So I'll chisel a notched corner for a good square.

Maybe cut and fit tier 2 tomorrow.

One of the 8 column overlaps of the sign boxes is leaving a gap on the outside, so I'll cut a filler shim for the end and top. No real problems, just the column was slightly off square.

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Sign boxes from each angle.

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Two with tier 1 in place

Rassilons Rod

Ooh! She's coming along a treat! :)
In the cities in the streets there's a tension you can feel,
The breaking strain is fast approaching, guns and riots.
Politicians gamble and lie to save their skins,
And the press get fed the scapegoats,
Public Enema Number One.

Andrew Harvey

Ah!....That's looking great! Bleddy 'Ansome!

Oor Wullie

Mar 17, 2023, 07:04 am #264 Last Edit: Mar 17, 2023, 07:08 am by Oor Wullie
Not everything is grandiose in TARDIS building, but every step is important and deserves a mention.

Problem statement: where the walls meet the floors on the outside, the floorboards are showing and allow rain to affect the board edges and the inside of the base which the boards sit upon. There are small, variable gaps at  the bottom of the walls and rain can get inside and also wick up into the edges of the wall plywood, even though it's painted.

Solution: Cut some angled pieces to butt against the wall and cover the floorboard gaps to the outer edge of the base where it angles downwards.

Problem statement 2: the moulding on the edge of the columns/pillars and the centre-wall mullion are in the way of a straight edge strip, as above.

Solution 2: Tried the scribing method you see on youtube, using a protractor holding a pencil, with a gap being the distance of this strip to the wall. It worked for a general sketch onto each strip but was difficult to keep the gap and right angle firm while making the marks, plus the strips are angled, adding to height related sketch issues.

The real solution was to use a small steel ruler to mark the lines of the moulding and mullion positions and then measure their distance from the wall. This worked well. The quarter round moulding lines were made using a vitamin jar lid of the same radius.

Tomorrow I cut to these lines and see how well it fits.

I cut the strips from the 2" side of a 2x4 on the table saw. Once the reliefs are cut out, I'll sand each piece, paint, screw and use sealant on the join lines.

Water-tight is alright!

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Volpone

Do I understand this correctly?  Does the right door open out like a police box and the left door opens in like a TARDIS?  Then you can lock up the left door and pretend it's a police box and use the right door and pretend it's a TARDIS.  I don't think anyone's thought of that before. 
"My dear Litefoot, I've got a lantern and a pair of waders, and possibly the most fearsome piece of hand artillery in all England. What could possibly go wrong?"
-The Doctor.

Oor Wullie

Mar 17, 2023, 05:32 pm #266 Last Edit: Mar 17, 2023, 06:08 pm by Oor Wullie
Hi Volpone

I used three two way cabinet hinges on each door so both open each way. I currently have a slide bolt on the left door top which goes up into a bolt reciever on the stepped awning cross piece.

The eventual plan is to enter through the right door inward, like most TARDIS' do, but the show has seen both doors open out on occasion. Doctor 11 while it's on its back and Jodie and Yas while it's on its side.

To stop rain, I'm putting a baffle strip on the inside of the right door which overlaps the inside of the left door. This makes the only entry inwards from the right, while the left is bolted.

Only problem is these hinges are made for lighter cabinet doors and they are starting to bend at the tops leaving a wider gap at the top outer part of the doors.

Since I want to move the doors upward a bit, I'll swap out for one way butt hinges. Right inward only, hiding the hinge barrel inside and left outwards for utility sake. This means the left barrels are visible outside, unfortunately.

The right front quarter of the TARDIS is bare floor. The rear right has a chair, the rear left will have a 1.5 panel console and time rotor which reflects into mirrors on the back and left walls to visually create a six sided console in the middle of the visually four times larger room. The front left quarter has a fold up shelf to sit a phone on, accessed from the phone cabinet door outside. This shelf can be folded down flat to allow the left door to open in (if I go that way). I have a hatrack for the left front quarter as well.

Oor Wullie

Quick post since I need to paint the outer floor cover strips before seating them. Here's a photo of the best of the three. The other two require an inward bow of the walls to be pushed out a cm and an inside square brace strip to be screwed in to hold the new position.

Anyway, really happy with the scroll work over the column mouldings and mullion. I'd recommend this step if you have floor boards visible from outside. Once in, I'll seal up any small gaps and paint them.

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Oor Wullie

Mar 19, 2023, 05:27 am #268 Last Edit: Mar 19, 2023, 07:07 pm by Oor Wullie
Cut some blocks for the corners of tiers 1 and 2 of the roof and screwed them in. They serve three purposes. 1. Keeping the tier square, 2. Holding the tier together as it's only glued, 3. They are the seat for the next tier up.

As my three tiers are made from the same width board, the blocks are the same height as the face of the next tier. Not intuitive until you do the simple math and do a Homer Simpson 'Doh!'. I'll screw along the tier squares to hold them together, once assembled, but these blocks make it simple to get each tier to the height it belongs. My exposure faces for tier 1 and 2 are 79 mm and 65 mm, respectively, so that's my block height.

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Oor Wullie

Mar 20, 2023, 02:48 am #269 Last Edit: Mar 20, 2023, 02:52 am by Oor Wullie
Tier 2 is cut and fit nice and snug. I think I'll glue and screw it in place within Tier 1 and then put in the blocks for Teir 3.

I think I'll make Tier 3 a bit of a looser fit so I can do two separate lifts. The entire roof will be too heavy for me and the companion to get up safely.

Once Tier three and the roof is together, I'll get the first two up and do all the gap stopping which includes expandable foam waterproofing strips for the two corners with gaps to the columns, maybe 6 mm each.

I'll get some beveled pieces butting up to the outside of Tier one on top of the sign boxes. These will keep rain outside the top of the sign boxes and any small gaps between them and the roof and the bevel will shed water to the edge of the sign boxes, much like I did with the floor edge strips.

Then the top of column decorative caps can get attached to the outer Tier 1 corners. All this work is easy with an open roof and ladder inside the box.

Note in the photo that I chiseled one bottom corner of Tier one to alleviate the torquing by the small difference in corner to corner of each pair of column Ls. The chiselling really helped get it right. The upper half of the chiselled corner of Tier 1 sits 6 mm on top of its column with the chisilled part inside. Invisible when the build is done other than one decorative cap either fitting wider or being cut less wide than the others.

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