Dec 06, 2023, 03:07 pm


New, New TardisBuilders!

1929 Trench build Tutukaka NZ

Started by Oor Wullie, Apr 06, 2022, 09:36 pm

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Oor Wullie

Apr 21, 2022, 03:09 am #15 Last Edit: Apr 21, 2022, 03:11 am by Oor Wullie
Set up my sawhorses and 2x6 rails across them. The wall ply serves as a temporary workbench and receiving table for the table saw so the weight of pieces like the door ply and column wood which need ripping don't fall off the edge of the saw surface. Next to choose the ply for each of the eight wall/door layers.

Since I'm thinking about the ripping, I was mulling over the watertightness of the sign boxes and fretting about the beading along the columns angled edges, which will be a strip of square cut out filled with quarter round molding. So the part where the sign box top and bottom pieces round the corner of the column will present a leak spot since it's square and the beaded molding isn't.

Then I remembered that I'm cutting out those corners and will have a long strips of square molding I just made. If I mark the sign box position on the columns, I only need to use the quarter round molding up to that point and reuse the square molding where the sign box goes. Not confident enough to only cut out to that point with a table saw and couldn't be bothered having to do chisel work to clean it up. If the kerf reduces the square molding a bit I'll silicone it up since I'll be doing that where tier one of the roof meets the top of the sign boxes anyway.

Found some two way hinges online which are not bulky double-action barrels which seem to be the only ones available in the big box stores. They even have a different arrangement of hinge plates, seemingly split into two plates for the last joining surface. You'll have to google two way hinges to see the three types: these slim ones, the big barrel spring-loaded ones for self-closing and the top and bottom pin ones. Really like two doors opening both in and out.

Oor Wullie

Off to town for groceries so I'll pop into the hardware store for some pavers, concrete and treated stakes. I built a kitset shed last year and polished up on my foundation skills. We get hurricanes in NZ so I imagine a 9 foot box would crash land if I don't anchor her in. Simple process of setting the base frame down and spray painting the ground at the corners, augering some holes at these points, screwing heavy stakes into the inside frame, levelling  bricks to rest the frame just above ground contact and cementing the staked frame into the holes. Then some internal L brackets from the columns to the flooring and nothing is going to blow this lady over. Paid too much for the Fresnel for that to happen.

Oor Wullie

Apr 22, 2022, 04:32 am #17 Last Edit: Apr 22, 2022, 08:41 pm by Oor Wullie
Successfully back from the foundation shopping trip. Did a scematic of the pavers this morning so I could compare different sized pavers vs the features I'm after. As the base is 1430 square and I wanted a bit of paver extending from the edges of the base so I don't ever need to weedwhack the grass directly next to the box, the winner was 230x190x40 mm in a black cement, bit classier than the normal grey. These pavers fit nicely to the base with 90 mm of the 190 dimension supporting the base fully and a further 100 mm forming the wee patio edging beyond the base. This makes 7 pavers of 230 mm length per side with the last of each side forming the first of the next. 24 blocks at $330 each plus three brick sized ones for the span of the one floor joist. Now it's easy to cement the anchor stakes from the frame as the blocks only sit under the base frame. Geek speak complete.

Oor Wullie

Apr 22, 2022, 08:30 pm #18 Last Edit: Apr 23, 2022, 09:45 am by Oor Wullie
There must be a god on Gallifrey. I went cheap and lightweight on my wall ply at only 9 mm x 2 ply = 18 mm. Reading up on door hinges, I realise I need more thickness for most hinge types. So I thought, back to the hardware store for a thicker back panel and that I'd wasted $70 on one sheet of unused ply. But I haven't bought the roof wood yet and remembered the four roof panels. Raced to the plan to happily find that my precut heights for the walls suits using the spare sheet for the roof panels by 10 cm to spare. The walls are cut to 2070 mm to meet the sign box bottom. Four heights of roof panel come to 1972 mm! Plus, the plan calls for a 4" top mount square for the lamp and I'm going 10" for a 6"diameter Fresnel lens ala Crich so my panel heights are shorter again as a result. Time to do a scale drawing to find out what that is. Sometimes, cockups just get lucky.

The ideal hinge is call a three way concealed hinge. The problem with these beauties are that they need to be inset in routered grooves which means another router bit and a frame for the template. But the gap between door and column is near nothing, making for water-tightness and door opens in, out and the third dimension allows for up and down height adjustment if it's catching the floor or top trimwork. I may have to bite the bullet and learn a new routering skill and not buy my new door ply until I know the exact thickness required to add to the 9 mm outer panel. I realise that 9 mm lessens the profile of the rails and stiles but it makes for cheaper and lighter walls.  Should still do the trick once the cut squares are chamfered at 22.5 degrees.

I'll have to read up on how everyone did their window and phone cabinet squares. I think these are better left unchamfered and square cut to accommodate the window pane frames and phone cabinet surround trim.

So thank you to the White Guardian for looking over my shoulder on this one.

Oor Wullie

Still, dry day so I'm marking up my wall panels and column and base stock towards getting them cut to spec. If you don't start, you never finish.

A big question is the window holes. The plan I'm using calls for the inside panel window holes to be 12 mm larger than the profile of the outer hole, creating a lip on the inside to set the plexi window pane into. I see from TARDIS photos that the outer hole is indeed chamfered so I'll go with the plan, though it seems more weathertight to mount the pane assembly from the outside with the mounting lip inside. But this would not work for me due to my thin outer ply. OK, sorted. Inner holes larger. Works for the inner ply of the door being thicker.

Back to the phone, I found a solution of a solar USB charger linked to a bluetooth gateway and then linked to a rotary phone, with bluetooth to my IPhone. Here are the two bits I need to order:

And a phone like this:

Back to the pencil and measuring tape...

Oor Wullie

Yikes! Need to adjust the plan door measurement away from the plan, as I want two working doors and there is a 5mm gap all around the plan's working door, so I need to accomodate for the left door opening as well. No drawing on the door panels today, just the three fixed walls.

Oor Wullie

My faith restored in potentially scammy online shops in China. My two router bits arrived. The 30 degree chamfer bit was an error in ordering but I have to stary collecting bits for the new router anyway. But the 22.5 degree chamfer bit is for the door squares. Now that drawing the cut lines is underway, I can go from cutting to routering to glueing without a break in the project.

Also got 2 white silicon O-rings from a NZ camera store in the mail, perfect size for my 155 mm diam lamp lens lips. The top hole through the circular wood cover and the square support wood plate will be fully cut by hole saw at 155 mm diam and the chimney lip sithe inside the holes. The O-rings go at the point where the lip meets the turn into the lens proper and will form a seal onto the wood when I tighten the threaded rods holding it all together and through the roof plate into the interior. I have two solar lughts on order. One is a flying saucer shape which will fit inside the top dome. The should charge the solar panel as the dome id clear plexiglass. I may paint the lower part blue but maybe leave it clear. It's remote control so can stay put. The second light will go up into the lens to solar change and be brought down to light the box. It's like a ball with a light at the bottom and four circular light panels which fold down to any angle. That should light my signs, windows and interior. Nor remote control unfortunately. Still waiting on both to arrive, then I can test how well the top light works with the Fresnel and how well they solar charge the way I'll have them. Then I can contruct the lamp.

Oor Wullie

Lazy day since I've decided to go for a thicker front sheet of ply. The plan used 2 x 12 mm. Since I initially got 8 sheets of 9 mm, I'll go for four more of 12 mm for a laminated thickness of 21 mm overall with the rail and stile profiles increasing by 3 mm.

I could have gone for 18 mm fronts but that's almost too much profile and the walls and door would be heavy.

The real reason for settling on 21 mm is that is the dimension to receive 2-way panel hinges.

This will allow my doors to open in and out both, TARDIS in, access and shed use out.

There is a 6 mm gap between the frame and door ends. I think I can use adhesive weather stripping here, run up the face of the frame, stopping the rain. For the gap of 5 mm between the doors, the plan has a useful suggestion of attaching an overlapping baton on the inside of the right door to block rain from the gap.

The overhanging sign box and the dripline of the trimwork over the doors should keep water out of the top and the metal and rubber inside screwed-in strips is a solution for the bottoms.

I ordered the hinges from Australia since NZ doesn't have local variety and the Chinese stores are iffy. These are probably cabinet grade hinges so I'm going for four on each door. They butt into the door edge so I can go for the heaviest and longest screw possible to hold into the ply.

 Four small brass hinge barrels each side seen from outside but brass is cool and I get my two-way dream done with. Off to get the ply tomorrow.

The four leftover sheet of 9 mm can be used on the roof, console, phone cabinet, maybe flooring over the paling floor and possibly a cut-out roundel panel for the right wall for more of a recessed feel like on the show. It will duplicate in my mirrors at all three mirror image walls. I could back light the plastic roundel insets.

The chair arrived today and it's very sturdy for being plastic. Pleased as.

Note on glueing the two panels. I'm going for cut squares rather than mucking around with rails and stiles. So if I mark up the front profile on the back of my back sheet, I can lay the front sheet down, glue liberally and lay the back sheet on top and screw precisely along the rail, stile and window positions by using the back drawing as a guide. This saves of going nuts with clamps. Small screws but going through the 9 mm into the 12 mm gives them some teeth.


Hello mate,

Sounds like you are cracking on with your build.

However, please don't take this the wrong way, but if I can offer some advice?

If you could post some pictures with your descriptions, you would garner a bit more interest in this thread & your build.

With all the best will in the world, it can be difficult to read through long tracts of descriptions
without some pictures for reference.

A few pics really brings a build diary to life.

I hope you take the advice with the goodwill that was intended.

Good luck with the rest of your build,

Best regards,


Rassilons Rod

As has oft been commented on these boards, we do love pictures :)
In the cities in the streets there's a tension you can feel,
The breaking strain is fast approaching, guns and riots.
Politicians gamble and lie to save their skins,
And the press get fed the scapegoats,
Public Enema Number One.


  Agreed on that,   Pictures please,  reading through posts of things that you may or may not be doing is a bit tedious without any frame of reference. 

I want notes, lists and answers by the time I finish this here Juicy-a-Box! WARNING: I am Thirst-ay! And it is Fruit Punch! And it is Delicious!"

Oor Wullie

Point on photos taken. I came across how to do that and will have to find it again. Not straightforward like fb if I recall. Rainy day here awaiting granddaughter #2's birth so doing little other than looking at acrylic sheets.

I came across Weprofab which seems to be the largest acrylic factory in China. The range of products boggles the mind but they don't show it all neatly. You kinda have to give them the specs and they give you a price. They cut it to spec. I need opal sign box backing, the several types of window "glass", roundels, a quarter of a tube for the time rotor and the ply sized two way mirrors. I have a decent plastics place in NZ but this place has far more choice.

Oor Wullie

Photo posting practice

The chair is much like a Troughton intro graphic9C6E230C-5D06-4116-8765-36446A32A090.jpeg95CB53D5-5350-479D-B3CF-776284D7E569.jpeg

Oor Wullie

The hatrack with scarf and hat0F01349B-62DA-4D88-9C99-758F3330FCC2.jpeg

Oor Wullie

The Vermont Lanterns 6" diameter lens, like a Fresnel without the sharp ridges, some test wood hole-sawed to take the lens lips, the blown plexi dome with flange and silicone O-rings bagged still.6B4EDB2D-EB9D-4CA0-9A24-2F56245B35B3.jpeg