2010 NSDW D Prop Wooden TARDIS

[alextheyellowthing]

In paralelle to my future Tv movie box, i've started work on a Series 5 tardis. I'm now sure that my full size 3D model is as acurate as i can get it without an official plan.
so here are some pictures of it. later after the hudolin box, i'll start gattering materials to build it.




btw, this would be a nice thing to see in the comming hollyday special...

[alextheyellowthing]

little comparaison betwin the series5 tardis(dubed Heroprop D) and the series 10 one (Hero prop F for this 3d model, but there was a G model used in tandem, wich has a lock placement that differse a bit, being more down to the corner of the rectangular recessed panel).

over the years, the doors and pannel sides got squished a bit getting the boxes slimer and slimer over the many constructions. The Capaldi tardii are thiner then the earlier moffat era tardii. The base got even more thicker (about 2cm). the paint has changed a couple of times, from a transparent (apprently a bit glitered, but not confirmed (quick edit, metal flakes sounds more accurate. For sure, the D prop lamp was at list looking "candy", wich means it as been painted metalic silver and toped with the same color of transparent blue. Wich give a deeper finish to it, kinda like those spectraflame vintage hotwheels) wood protection mid blue paint to a flat opac lighter blue that is a bit more cyany.




the series 5 lamp is made of a anchor brass lamp with the top part of a earlier guardman candel lantern(same model as used on the 3 RTD hero props era. reconisable by the thiner exterior lower ridge and the big cheminée cap but the "niple" part was kept this time) this lanterne can be opened btw.



from the second half of series6 onward (fitted on the brand new tardis E prop) the lamp construction sources changed for a modified exterior metal lamp on wich 4 of the 8 protection cage rodes have been plucked topped with a more recent guardman candel lanter round top (reconisable from it's thicker base, biger lower ridge and the thiner cheminée cap.) i also need to do more research, but some of the lamps might even just be made out of a resin casting of the fresnel part, mounted on some metal house cheminée/rain pipes. i can't confirm right now.




 I will eventualy do the later moffat tardii. At list make some interchangeable parts to make the tardis look more accurate to diffrent seasons.
 But i gotta be honnest, I personnaly don't like the box look after series 6b as much as I like the series 5 D prop or even all the RTD's ones. The lamp got more flimsy looking, wich isn't just a look actualy, it was realy bloody frigile, even more the the RTD lantern construction. It got knoked all the time during production, wich is the reason it's size and proportions change so much during the episodes because of replacement and quick fixes. I'm also a fond of that detailed wood grain effect earlier box had. Despite being inacurate to the real life met boxes it was, it's a good look on the RTD's, and it got realy embrassed ont the D prop to the paroxisme. The later flat blue just makes it looks cheap by how clean and uniform it was. Wich enfacise how beaten it got during production and brings out more the "movie props aspect" and fragile look instead of feeling more real and grounded, like previous boxes did. And i'm glade the H,I and J boxes (Whittaker's boxes) got back to a more intentionnal weathered patched look, because dings and neglects of the productions doesnt look out of place, can be more easily hiden and repared and it even adds up character and realisme to them.
 Also, I like the sized tardis C and D got. Because it feels more like what the tardis is suposed to be in apparance. A basic and small street coner police officer's minimal office where a human being can spend a day working, looking for something to happen without it feeling too smal to fit in. Thiner tardii, with a poor choice of paint work added to that cheap prop Aestetic. Wich is a Shame, because it is absolutly not a cheap prop, it's expensive and detailed, but it suffer from comparaison to the previous and next boxes.
 So yeah, little opinion piece here I guess. Maybe justification for me taking a while to make the capaldi tardis in the futur. I like this doctor and the interior, the exterior is a nice desing over all, but compared to the others, it's my list favourit new who box. Wich i still think is funny, compared to how little diffrenced there are betwin all of them, when i come to think about it (and compared to the classic show), yet how off it looks to me. It won't probably grew on me for a long time, but i don't hate it, so i will surly make one anyway at some point.... way sooner then i'll propably make the Newberry prop X)

[alextheyellowthing]

I'm working on the metal jobs for the incoming boxes.
While doing that, i made a prototype of the series 6 lamp

While i'm at it, here is some locks.like i said in the hudolin channel, i might show how i made it, i'm just internaly debating on doing it because i've massivrly missused my hand drile in a way i don't want a kid reproducing.

[kutan66]

Love those little locks!    I've frequently adjusted screw heads with a belt sander or angle grinder when they've been too big for little hinges etc on cabinets.  Never made a pretty little lock though!

Is the brass coloured bit an insert, or painted?

Did you turn your drill into a bit of a lath?

Did you off-set the screw in the chuck jaws do do the brassy bit?

Cheers
Ian

[alextheyellowthing]

@kutan66 I'm kinda scared to anser, since my prcesse was quite unortodox. the short story it that i used my power drill as a metal turning machine to file and dig the screw into shape. The X shape was drill down mostly until i had a round shaped hole that i later filled with fluxed circuit solder. for the brasse part, i took a wire i had lying around an shaped it into a round shape using the end of a paint brush. i used it to stamp the soft solder metal part on the top of the lock, registered the crated grouved a bit more with a needle (making the key hole too) and then used black acrilyc paint to emphasise the panel gape. then i finaly painted the the round part with tranparent fined yellowish paint. I don't think i'll go into more detail, because I don't realy want a kid (or an adult realy) to do as i did and injure them selfs.

[scotland yard]

I'm kinda scared to anser, since my prcesse was quite unortodox. the short story it that i used my power drill as a metal turning machine to file and dig the screw into shape. The X shape was drill down mostly until i had a round shaped hole that i later filled with fluxed circuit solder. for the brasse part, i took a wire i had lying around an shaped it into a round shape using the end of a paint brush. i used it to stamp the soft solder metal part on the top of the lock, registered the crated grouved a bit more with a needle (making the key hole too) and then used black acrilyc paint to emphasise the panel gape. then i finaly painted the the round part with tranparent fined yellowish paint. I don't think i'll go into more detail, because I don't realy want a kid (or an adult realy) to do as i did and injure them selfs.

Yes, very nice being concerned about child's safety, because we all know every self-respecting family gifts their children a drill at the age of 5!! Jokes aside, this is a forum for adults. Some kids must read these pages, but very few and unable to a) Understand a lot of what we say, and b) Have the means to do what we do in here. So, don't worry, the children are safe...!!

The adults are another matter. I mean, as any person who has had to take their mate to an A&E/ER on a Friday night will confirm, many adults do a lot of stuff without thinking things through. It's always better to have at least a book or set of instructions as a base. And if you want, you can say in big, red letters, BEWARE!! STUPIDLY DANGEROUS THING TO DO AHEAD!! DO NOT TRY TO DO THIS IF UNCERTAIN!!!

[alextheyellowthing]

noted then!

[alextheyellowthing]

Behold, the série 5 model to be. I'm letting it dry a bit. It asn't warped luckly but thoses trashed crates are sadly not disposed under a shaltered storage aera. Anyway, i'll still find a way to use it if it's unusable as wood pannelling.

[alextheyellowthing]

Year                    Color                 Code         Type
2000     -    SYDNEY BLUE PRI          55A        METALLIC

1996   -   LIBERTY BLUE PEARL   55A      METALLIC"

Oak wood ?


I'll use this place to note the paint and wood refrence

[alextheyellowthing]

I've been reading up à lot about the windows for this prop lately, i'm thinking more about doing à couple diffrent sets of window backing (frosted White, Black, transparent, and dark filmed glass) with à système to switch them out easily. What do you think ?
Frome what i've read, that's the kind of set up that box had at the time

[alextheyellowthing]

i updated my 3d model to more acurate mesurements
don't mind the textres btw, it was just trown to geter for the heck of itNo message is associated with this attachment.

and a little before after

[alextheyellowthing]

i might make the model foldable too if it's a success with the C prop, that i'm affraid i'll have to make first. since it will need test fitting. but it might mean i'll be able to easely bring it around in vacation and it means more pictures oportunity

[alextheyellowthing]

Work as begun. And stoped quick X)

Need some matérial again.

[alextheyellowthing]

Some progress. I've got the entier outer parts of the base, i've moc up à bit.
Also i've find à way to make the sign boxes so progress will résumé on that. But i still need my 2mm wood to arrive before any progrès can be made on the base i think.

[Volpone]

As a kid, I built plastic model airplane kits and I'd like to have a go at a model wooden sailing ship from a kit, but these scratch-built models always blow my mind.  To some degree, a TARDIS is a relatively simple shape, but you don't have to get the dimensions off by much before it looks wrong.  I would never have the precision, patience, and attention to detail to do one of these models.  Ironically, there's a bit more "fudge factor" on a full-sized build.  If something's off by 1/4", it is a lot harder to notice than if something's off by 1/16" on a model.  And it is easier to disguise measurement errors on a full sized build.  (IMO).  My build is far from perfect, but it looks pretty darned good--if I say so myself--and there aren't 2 panels or window panes on it that are the same size.  Much harder to get away with that on a model (or even harder if, for example, you're doing the altered Barachaki and you NEED to have things not square--in very specific ways.