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The Kenneth Sharp Tardis Console

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ALMOST EXACTLY 45 YEARS AGO TO THE DAY, ON 4th JANUARY 1971,  PRODUCTION BEGAN ON “CLAWS OF AXOS”. THIS STORY MARKED THE DEBUT APPEARANCE OF THE KENNETH SHARP VERSION OF THE TARDIS CONSOLE.

By its final appearance in “Inferno” in 1970, Peter Brachacki’s original Tardis Console was in a very poor state of repair and had to be retired. The job of designing its replacement was given to BBC designer Kenneth Sharp.

Unlike the construction of the original which was contracted out to Shawcraft, the building of the new MK1A Console (as it is often referred to) was handled in-house by the BBC, probably by the Visual Effects Department who built a simplified timber frame on which were fitted the various controls (most of which were salvaged from the original Brachacki Console).

As well as having a slightly wider (and slightly sleeker) ‘silhouette’, the most obvious difference between the two versions of the Console was the design of the central column’s interior.

The Brachacki central column’s interior was clearly reminiscent of a steerable radio antenna (and, as such, was capable of rotating). The Sharp/Pertwee/MK1A version of the console’s central column is clearly designed for the then new medium of colour television – containing as it does brightly coloured plastics in the form of ‘shafts’ and various angled panels.

Though made of plastic, especially when viewed from above, the column’s interior is more reminiscent of the ‘clover-leaf’ shaped piers which can be seen in many medieval and later ‘Gothic revival’ Victorian-era buildings:

064time036-1 showing collar lining.jpgcloverleaf column.jpg

In architectural terms, this type of pier is known as a “compound column”; a compound column consists of a central “pier”, to which engaged (touching) or semi-detached “shafts” are attached. The central pier and shafts can be any regular geometric shape – in the case of the Tardis, a triangular central pier with three circular shafts.

Where the shafts are fully detached from the central pier, they are coupled to it by “armulets” (bridging pieces) at regular heights to maintain structural integrity. A compound column can be free-standing or mounted on a “base”. (Note, all terms in quote marks (“-“) are correct and a compound column does not need to support anything on top of it.)

This architectural analogy is particularly suited to the Pertwee/Sharp/MK1A console:

PERTWEE COLUMN FOR TB.png

(For reasons of clarity, at this stage, the multi-directional angled panels are not shown.)

Here I’m posting Lespaceplie’s excellent version of the Baker/Davison “compound column” for comparison.

lespaceplie column.png

Though obviously simplified by the removal of the colourful angled panels and their replacement with frosted panels (which serve to obscure the still-slightly-gaudy pink/red central triangular pier), the later Baker/Davison version re-utilises the Sharp original.

Note, there are subtle differences in the construction methods implied by these drawings and these subtleties alter the overall dimensions as a result:

Firstly, let me say that (whilst I’m going to explain why I slightly disagree with his conclusions) how much I admire Lespaceplie’s work here on TB and, equally, how much I admire Crispin/Scarfwearer’s earlier work in trying to establish the dimensions of the MK1A Console as well.

They say ‘imitation is the sincerest form of flattery’; well, in creating my version of the Pertwee “compound column”, I’ve hopefully achieved precisely that! So where I’m now going on to explain why I differ from Lespaceplie (and Crispin) it is meant in the spirit of respectful, polite and friendly disagreement. Above all however, it is meant in the spirit of creating screen accurate plans:

In Lespaceplie’s drawing, structural stability is gained by recessing each shaft within a four inch diameter hole cut into the acrylic mirror which tops the column’s black base. Further rigidity is provided by the three Perspex “annular sectors” which are screwed through the mirrored disc and into the black base.

At the top of Lespaceplie’s column, three small armulets attach the shafts to a triangular collar which (in turn) attaches to the central triangular pier. Here I completely agree with Lespaceplie:

rotor close.png

Where I disagree is in the relationship of the shafts to the mirrored disc. In my view, only the 'sheaths' for the fluorescent tubes are recessed into the mirrored disc. This would  only require the cutting of three one inch diameter holes through the mirrored disc rather than three four inch diameter holes.

In my opinion, stability is not only provided by the three annular sectors but also by the presence of a triangular collar fitted onto the mirrored disc (i.e., except for the armulets, identical to the structure at the top of the column). The three circular shafts are therefore ‘locked’ into position rather than being ‘recessed’ into position.

This arrangement would seem to be borne out by the pictorial evidence:

axos7reduced for tb.png
068PlanetoftheDaleks012.jpg
axos2a cropped.png
planet of daleks1.png

(The presence of the lower stabilising triangular collar - fitted to the mirrored disc - is highlighted in yellow in the last picture.)

By comparing the diameters of the hole in the Console’s collar, the Perspex cylinder and the diameters of both the mirrored disc and black base, we can also begin to establish the Central Column’s overall dimensions; it doesn’t matter what the unit of measurement is, the ratios of the diameters will remain the same (476:438:352 pixels at the points indicated). So, once you’ve established one diameter, the others can be calculated accordingly.

But which diameter do you choose? As with everything connected with Dr Who, the Pertwee/Sharp/MK1A console was subjected to adaptation – for example, a microphone was fitted for “The Time Monster” as was the ‘time ram’ dial, whilst in “Death to the Daleks”, coloured lamps replaced the small toggle switches on Control Panel 2; famously in "Colony in Space", sudden damage to this panel was supposedly hidden by the creation of a ‘socket’ into which the housing for the Tardis’ de-materialisation circuit could be fitted!

So, our diameter needs to be something we know was not altered. This therefore effectively rules out the diameter of the outer Perspex cylinder:

Not only were controls modified or replaced, throughout its screen lifetime the Central Column too underwent various refits; it is obvious that the outer cylinder was made in two halves from very thin Perspex sheets which were riveted together. When first introduced in “Claws of Axos”, these joins were achieved using two metal re-enforcing strips:

057axos007.jpg
 
This is a close-up from “The Time Monster”:

rivets.png

Note the main securing brass rivets/small bolts/screws in the ‘rear’ join of Perspex cylinder (left-hand side of picture).  Note also that the two Perspex halves of the outer cylinder meet rather than overlap so, the metal strip acts as the original joining piece (see nearside of cylinder/right of picture where upright join meets the circular top of the central column). Also note the small holes in the Perspex on either side of the nearside join (these are in addition to the holes which correspond to the main nearside brass fixings).

These metallic joining strips remained until Pyramids of Mars but were removed in the next story - Planet of Evil:
082PyramidsofMars0004.jpg
081PlanetofEvil0006 - thin fascia aluminium.jpg

By the time “The Pirate Planet” was recorded, it is clear that the production team had decided that overlapping the two Perspex halves would be more durable/easier than fitting any kind of joining strip:

pirate2 reduced size for tb.png
pirate2 top.png


The screen grab from Pirate Planet is also helpful in determining the relative diameters of the hole in the Console’s collar, outer cylinder, mirrored disc and black base:

The Central Column is (more or less) at its full height and has (for once) risen vertically! These pictures are the full-sized version of the same screen capture but split into three to ‘dodge’ the forum’s 500KB upload limit):

pirate2 top.png
pirate2 middle.png
pirate2 bottom.png

Note the ratios of the three diameters we are discussing (760:700:570) and compare them to the same ratios seen in Claws of Axos (476:438:352). Also note that in the Pirate Planet the mirrored disc appears to be fractionally smaller than the black base whereas in Axos, both the mirrored disc and black base appear to be the same diameter.

Now to the maths and – remember – we don’t yet know any dimensions, we are simply talking about how big each diameter is in relation to the others. Secondly, the two pictures are different sizes so the comparative diameters need to be expressed in the same way: To achieve this, I am going to take the diameter of the hole in the Console’s collar as my baseline i.e., its diameter is one hundred units.

For Pirate Planet:-
Where 760 pixels = 100 units,
the diameter of the Perspex cylinder = 700/760 x 100 = 92.105 units and
the diameter of the black base = 570/760 x 100 = 75 units.

For Claws of Axos:-
Where 476 pixels = 100 units,
the diameter of The Perspex cylinder = 438/476 = 92.017 units and
the diameter of the black base = 352/476 = 73.950 units.

Clearly at 73.950 units and 75 units respectively - and given the appearance of a slight discrepancy between the diameter of the mirrored disc and the diameter of the black base in the later Baker picture  - the black base has been fractionally increased in size between the two stories (possibly a later thin ‘skin’ was added to disguise some damage to the original - MK1A - black base).

So, with different outer Perspex cylinders and a re-dressed internal ‘compound column’, between the Pertwee and Baker versions, just what were the dimensions of the MK1A Console’s Central Column as designed by Kenneth Sharp in January 1971?

As the only ‘constant’ dimension is the hole in the Console’s collar, we need to accurately establish this measurement. The only way to do that is to create screen accurate plans for the entire Sharp Tardis Console itself!

We’ll discuss these measurements in Part Two. And Happy New Year!
 

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Good suffering Jehoshaphat! That's some serious research, Tony! :o Bravo! (And that drawing of the Pertwee column you've started is still an amazing feat using just Paint!)

Just one minor correction I would like to propose: the removal and replacing of that metal strips that hold the two halves of the column cover together. It is true that it looks like they removed the strips for "Planet of Evil", however this story preceded "Pyramids of Mars" rather than following it. (Story order: "Terror of the Zygons" - "Planet of Evil" - "Pyramids of Mars".) So they may have removed those strips for "Planet of Evil" thinking the strips weren't needed (or looked unsightly), but then realized that the strips were needed for structural integrity and replaced for "Pyramids of Mars".

So other than the order of the Stories, I think you've just about nailed every detail. I can't wait to see the completed Pertwee column! (And am I correct in presuming that you plan to do the same drawings with this console as you did with the original Brachacki?)

Dino.
 
galacticprobe said:
Just one minor correction I would like to propose: the removal and replacing of that metal strips that hold the two halves of the column cover together. It is true that it looks like they removed the strips for "Planet of Evil", however this story preceded "Pyramids of Mars" rather than following it. (Story order: "Terror of the Zygons" - "Planet of Evil" - "Pyramids of Mars".) So they may have removed those strips for "Planet of Evil" thinking the strips weren't needed (or looked unsightly), but then realized that the strips were needed for structural integrity and replaced for "Pyramids of Mars"
I'm pretty sure Pyramids of Mars was made before Planet of Evil, but transmitted the other way round (Planet of Evil was shown before Pyramids of Mars)...

I am so looking forward to this thread... :)
 
fivefingeredstyre said:
I'm pretty sure Pyramids of Mars was made before Planet of Evil, but transmitted the other way round (Planet of Evil was shown before Pyramids of Mars)...

Possibly. The only argument against this is Tom Baker's costume. In "Planet of Evil" he's still wearing his red corduroy jacket, wide window pane patterned shirt, and original scarf. In "Pyramids of Mars", he's wearing his new burgundy frock coat, plain white shirt, and his scarf has been drastically modified to its Season 13 pattern, so it's nothing like its original condition. This makes it difficult to believe that they would put Baker in a new costume and alter the scarf to record "Pyramids", and then alter the scarf back to its Season 12 state to put Baker back in his Season 12 costume to record "Planet", and then alter the scarf and everything back to the Season 13 state as in "Pyramids" for the following Season 13 stories.

That's not to say they didn't do all that to record the stories in a different order, it just seems unlikely as for that one story ("Planet of Evil") it would require an awful lot of work to alter and re-alter the costume, especially the scarf. This is why I think "Planet" was recorded first. (Of course, someone could always find some documentation that would prove me wrong - I wouldn't argue with that; it's proof positive. But until then, I'll stick with "Planet" being recorded first for the reasons stated above.)

Dino.
 
According to Virgin's Fourth Doctor Handbook studio recording for Planet of Evil took place between 30th June -15th July 1975, whereas studio recording for Pyramids was between May 19th - 3rd June 1975. This means though that the differences in the console room sets between the stories happened post Pyramids.

I'm no expert on the scarf, but I think its the same one as the previous years in both stories (happy to stand corrected on that, though). The costume is definitely different, quite why they were swapped is anyones guess...


It always looks to me as though they forgot to plug in the Time Rotor lights in the opening episode of Planet of Evil...
 
I'm not sure what scarves have got to do with anything  :) but just to confirm, though transmitted the other way round, Pyramids of Mars was recorded before Planet of Evil, so the removal of the metal strips occurred in the order I stated (thanks to Steve W for confirmation of the dates)!

To answer Dino's question, yes, the plans are on their way and they will show different dimensions to those that have gone before (including the dimensions stated by Scarfwearer and Lespaceplie) so, I've brought my tin helmet!!!!

T
 
Tony Farrell said:
I'm not sure what scarves have got to do with anything  :) but just to confirm, though transmitted the other way round, Pyramids of Mars was recorded before Planet of Evil, so the removal of the metal strips occurred in the order I stated (thanks to Steve W for confirmation of the dates)!

Me neither. :)  I'd assumed that it was an aid to dating but in this case, the season 13 is the season 13 is the season 13 :)

fourthdoctorcostume.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/costume-index-season-thirteen.html?m=1
 
I've just realised that when I posted the close-up of the original metallic strips (used to join the two halves of the column's outer cylinder), I failed to publicly thank Jonathan for providing me with the photo from The Time Monster (it took him three goes to send it - oh the joys of the "inter-web" :) )!

column close up time monster.png


fivefingeredstyre said:
According to Virgin's Fourth Doctor Handbook studio recording for Planet of Evil took place between 30th June -15th July 1975, whereas studio recording for Pyramids was between May 19th - 3rd June 1975.

Thanks for the confirmation (Dino had me doubting myself for a moment).

fivefingeredstyre said:
It always looks to me as though they forgot to plug in the Time Rotor lights in the opening episode of Planet of Evil...

On the subject of the column's lights, in my drawing, I've shown them as all being lit simultaneously; this is purely to show their positions (I realise they flash in different sequences)!  :)

I'd be really interested to hear from anyone who could describe the wiring needed to achieve the intermittent flashing effect. I have accurately drawn the positioning of the curly wires and lamp-holder fixings as far as I can see them (side one of the pier definitely had four lamps, side two had three lamps and side three might have had just the top three of the four lamps I've drawn - it's really hard to see when the column is in motion) but I'm not an electrician, so don't know how this would work given what we can see.

If there are any electricians 'out there', replies in simple English please; I really am a bit thick when it comes to electrics!

rassilonsrod said:
Love your new diagram of the Pertwee rotor, Tony :)

Cheers Marc! It took over twenty hours to create but I really enjoyed it. I actually like Microsoft Paint - it does exactly what it says on the tin. As long as you remember it's exactly the same as drawing with coloured pencils, you can get reasonable results (here's one I did a few years ago in the real world of St. Patrick in pencil on paper). Glass - or clear Perspex - is extremely hard to draw in the real world let alone in "Paint", so I'm quite pleased.  :)

271122_216751468365057_1175464_n.jpg

Just so we can agree on terminology (for when we come to discuss dimensions), I've added my descriptions to the various parts:

PERTWEE COLUMN FOR TB with descriptions.png

Well, what's the use of a good drawing if you can't re-use it?!

T
 
Fantastic!  Really hoped you'd tackle this console.  I've often thought that the MK1a was a brand new build, and am glad that you confirm this.  The use of MK1a as a name has always suggested a modification of the Brachacki.  Perhaps now is the time to call it the MK2?

Will be following with extreme interest.
 
Tony Farrell said:
On the subject of the column's lights, in my drawing, I've shown them as all being lit simultaneously; this is purely to show their positions (I realise they flash in different sequences)!  :)

I'd be really interested to hear from anyone who could describe the wiring needed to achieve the intermittent flashing effect. I have accurately drawn the positioning of the curly wires and lamp-holder fixings as far as I can see them (side one of the pier definitely had four lamps, side two had three lamps and side three might have had just the top three of the four lamps I've drawn - it's really hard to see when the column is in motion) but I'm not an electrician, so don't know how this would work given what we can see.

If there are any electricians 'out there', replies in simple English please; I really am a bit thick when it comes to electrics!
Well, I'm a sparky, but I'm more of the mains voltage variety. For this I'm guessing some sort of 3 or 4 channel sequencer built into the console base that would the lights flash seemingly at random (although in reality they would be flashing to a pattern). In order for this to happen though each of the lamps on the sides of the central pier would need to be wired independently, so they can appear to flash at different rates on each of the three faces of the pier.

If this was right, each of the coiled wire sections would be made up of multiple thin cables to take each of the channels

(Does any of that make sense...?  ???)

Are the lamps held on by Cable ties?


ETA... YOu know that rotor does look seriously easy to make... The only problem is, if I made it I would then have to make the whole console to go with it...  ;D
 
fivefingeredstyre said:
Well, I'm a sparky, but I'm more of the mains voltage variety. For this I'm guessing some sort of 3 or 4 channel sequencer built into the console base that would the lights flash seemingly at random (although in reality they would be flashing to a pattern).

I think I have the sequence for two sides of the pier (from Colony in Space and Axos). I don't have the DVD for "The Time Monster" (which has some overhead shots). Death to the Daleks is next to useless because the restored episode one's quality is poor and Planet of the Daleks/Frontier in Space is mainly tracking shots. So, I'm struggling with what the 'third side' of the pier's lighting does. 

Having watched the various take-off/landing scenes, for the side which definitely has four lamps (I'm calling this side one because the lamp is nearest the top of the pier), the sequence is lamps 1 to 3 on (lamp 1 at the top, 4 at the bottom) for at least five seconds. Then, still on side one, lamps 2 to 4 are lit (again for about five seconds - the camera cuts away after this). Meanwhile on side two (with three lamps), the bottom two lamps illuminate alternately (I've no idea if the top lamp flashes, I presume it does, but have never seen it lit). From what I've seen of side three (the one where the spacing would definitely allow room for four lamps but, of which I've never seen the bottom lamp because the height of the column hasn't been 'appropriate'), either all three visible lamps are lit ( i.e., 1 to 3) or the bottom two lamps are lit (i.e., 2 and 3). So, if there were four lamps on this side as well, then the sequence could very well be identical to that on side one of the pier.

If people didn't realise that I was a 'rivet counter' before, they certainly will now!  ;)

T

 
 
Neither do I normally but it's done nothing but rain for a month (and, as you may have seen on the news, my local pub/restaurant in Summerseat was swept away when the bridge it had stood on for 200 years collapsed) so I've had the time!

If you want to contribute a wiring diagram (an idiot's guide would be a better term in my case), then, brilliant!

T
 
Blimey, was that near you? I saw the footage, it looked horrific! hopefully no one was inside when it went..? Is your place OK?

As for a wiring diagram... I'd imagine at the time the controller/sequencer was more a sort of plug in unit rather than something made from scratch. Nowadays you could make something from scratch quite easily if you have the skills (electronics are not my forte... the voltage is too tiny...;) )

I think Dino is a bit of a whizz with electronics... Can you help, Dino?
 
fivefingeredstyre said:
Blimey, was that near you? I saw the footage, it looked horrific! hopefully no one was inside when it went..? Is your place OK?

Off topic, the pub is a ten minute walk down the hill from me. This is what it looked like until last week and this is it now (luckily it was empty, it could have held two hundred people).

2FA1434A00000578-3375234-The_Waterside_Pub_in_Summerseat_near_Bury_is_pictured_before_it_-a-26...jpg
images.jpg

As you can see, almost half the building was swept away.  We must be grateful for small mercies!

_87383393_pub_trevorpriestley.jpg

T
 
I hope you're all sitting back. This one is longer than usual, even for me. ;D

fivefingeredstyre said:
According to Virgin's Fourth Doctor Handbook studio recording for Planet of Evil took place between 30th June -15th July 1975, whereas studio recording for Pyramids was between May 19th - 3rd June 1975.
Well... I stand corrected on that. You can't argue with irrefutable proof!

Tony Farrell said:
Thanks for the confirmation (Dino had me doubting myself for a moment).
Sorry, Tony. That wasn't my intention. And in all honesty it was the costume change that made me think "Planet of Evil" was recorded first.

Tony Farrell said:
I'd be really interested to hear from anyone who could describe the wiring needed to achieve the intermittent flashing effect.
Well, in the '60 and even into the '70s, most times they just used flasher bulbs because they were inexpensive, readily available, and easy to use; you just connect them into your circuit and once they heat up, the flasher element kicks in - like the old Christmas tree lights. A good example of these in action is the 'Lost In Space' (TV series) Robot. When he is first activated (and yes, his power pack actually made or broke the circuit that powered all of his lights), all of his lights came on at once - steady on - but after a few seconds of the filaments heating up, the flasher element would kick in and the lights would start blinking, some sooner than others, and all at random intervals.

This could possibly have been how they got the lights in the column to blink intermittently, and randomly. I'm not saying it's definitively how they did it, but it would have been the easiest way.

Tony Farrell said:
I'm not sure what scarves have got to do with anything  :)...
Well, as Marc said:
rassilonsrod said:
I'd assumed that it was an aid to dating but in this case, the season 13 is the season 13 is the season 13 :)
Ditto! So there goes my whole dating system out the window (which also sounds like my social life before I met my wife!) ;D

Tony Farrell said:
To answer Dino's question, yes, the plans are on their way and they will show different dimensions to those that have gone before (including the dimensions stated by Scarfwearer and Lespaceplie) so, I've brought my tin helmet!!!!
Yay-hay! And I seriously hope you don't need that "tin helmet"; you've already proven your mettle!

fivefingeredstyre said:
Blimey, was that near you? I saw the footage, it looked horrific! hopefully no one was inside when it went..? Is your place OK?
First, OH MY GLOB! That was a terrible shame. The only bright side is that the place was empty. (I hope they rebuild; it was a great-looking place.) Also it's a good thing Tony and his place are okay.

fivefingeredstyre said:
As for a wiring diagram... I'd imagine at the time the controller/sequencer was more a sort of plug in unit rather than something made from scratch. Nowadays you could make something from scratch quite easily if you have the skills (electronics are not my forte... the voltage is too tiny...;) )
Well, even back then wiring harnesses and plug-in harnesses were easily made if you knew how. I mean, look at all the electronics of the time: TVs, radios, radars, etc. They all had wiring harnesses in them, and someone had to make them. Heavens knows that when I was in the military - right out of electronics school in 1981 - I'd made enough of them to replace ones that had gone bad: cracked insulation on the wiring and all that. So if you were trained in the field, then you could make those plug-in things with ease.

fivefingeredstyre said:
I think Dino is a bit of a whizz with electronics... Can you help, Dino?
To a point. To paraphrase "Bones" McCoy: "I'm an electronics technician, not an electronics engineer." If something is broken and I've got a manual and schematic diagram to follow, then I can repair it. But when it comes to designing circuits, I'm total rubbish. It took me quite a while to translate that lamp flasher circuit from the YouTube video, but I couldn't have designed that circuit on my own.

As for the flashing lights inside this column, as I mentioned above, the easiest way they could have done it would have been to just use flasher bulbs. They might all come on steady for a few seconds when first powered up, but then they would quickly start blinking, each at their own rates and that would create a truly random flashing. Even if you use flashing controllers or sequencers, one for each bulb, you're still going to end up with some sort of pattern. Also, that would be a lot of work, having to build a flasher circuit for each bulb. That's why I think they may have just used flasher bulbs. With them, all you need to do is plug (or screw) the bulb into the socket, connect the wires to the socket, and then plug the wiring into the power source and flip a switch to turn everything on and just sit back and let the flasher element in the bulb do the rest. And from what I can see in that image Tony got from Jonathan, it looks like the bulbs in the column are in sockets, which would also facilitate changing out a bulb when it failed.

fivefingeredstyre said:
I admire your attention to detail Tony... I honestly don't have the attention span to count the flashing lighting sequence...  ;D

Tony Farrell said:
Neither do I normally but it's done nothing but rain for a month... so I've had the time!
Hey, at least these bulbs flash at a reasonable rate for counting how many there are and where they are, and when they flash. I've been working on a drawing for a story I'm working on (not 'Who'-related; something completely different) and I'm basing this certain piece of equipment on something from an old TV series I loved as a kid - a "one season wonder" called 'Search', or in the UK as 'Search Control'. In the later episodes of that series, they had a set of very rapidly flashing lights on a large monitor frame and I've been trying to get the color location of each segment by running my DVD into the ground! Even on slow-mo it's very hard to follow those lights. Three rows, six units in each row, with ten light segments in each unit (two across, five down, and they're small). So far I've learned there are three colors: red, white, and a very pale blue in each unit. Now I'm trying to place where each color goes and it's nerve-wracking! This column's lights should be child's play when compared to this monstrosity I'm working on!

Now how does this fit in? Even though this series ran from September '72 until May '73, the flashing lights in their equipment had a discernible pattern to them, ergo they must have used a sequencer. However in the TARDIS console's column, from what I've seen watching some of the Pertwee stories, those lights have a truly random flash: no pattern at all, hence furthering my belief in the use of flasher bulbs.

Tony Farrell said:
If you want to contribute a wiring diagram (an idiot's guide would be a better term in my case), then, brilliant!
Now, for a simple wiring diagram for this column, going on the assumption that flasher bulbs were used, once I know the location of each bulb in the column (both steady-on and flashing), I may be able to put something together. It may not be exactly how the original column was wired, but it would be a good working diagram for anyone building this column to get the same light and visual results.

Dino.
 
galacticprobe said:
I hope you're all sitting back. This one is longer than usual, even for me. ;D

Goodness, you weren't kidding!

Tony Farrell said:
I'd be really interested to hear from anyone who could describe the wiring needed to achieve the intermittent flashing effect.

galacticprobe said:
Well, in the '60 and even into the '70s, most times they just used flasher bulbs because they were inexpensive, readily available, and easy to use; you just connect them into your circuit and once they heat up, the flasher element kicks in and the lights would start blinking, some sooner than others, and all at random intervals.

Excellent, I'm all for cheap and easy solutions ;D

galacticprobe said:
Tony Farrell said:
To answer Dino's question, yes, the plans are on their way and they will show different dimensions to those that have gone before (including the dimensions stated by Scarfwearer and Lespaceplie) so, I've brought my tin helmet!!!!
Yay-hay! And I seriously hope you don't need that "tin helmet"; you've already proven your mettle!

Thanks. And in answer to Mr Kent's earlier post, I'm not sure what to call the Sharp Console either. I can see the sense in MK1A as so many of the controls were re-used.  That said the framework, column and column drive were all new so, MK2 would make sense as well.

Perhaps we should have a New Year's poll?  :)

galacticprobe said:
Tony Farrell said:
If you want to contribute a wiring diagram (an idiot's guide would be a better term in my case), then, brilliant!
Now, for a simple wiring diagram for this column, going on the assumption that flasher bulbs were used, once I know the location of each bulb in the column (both steady-on and flashing), I may be able to put something together. It may not be exactly how the original column was wired, but it would be a good working diagram for anyone building this column to get the same light and visual results.

Does this help? It's the best close-up I can get without losing the definition.

column close up time monster.png

So you know the locations of the lamps, in this picture the light is "lamp one - side one" and I've marked the same lamp on my 'Painted' version of the column:

PERTWEE COLUMN FOR TB.png

T
 
Okay... not sure this is how the props builders did it, but from what I can see in the photo image and your drawings, Tony, this is how it looks like those Central Pier lights were wired:

The straight, rigid wire that runs to the topmost bulb is the supply voltage (call it V+). Considering the size of the bulbs used I would say between 6 and 12 volts DC power is needed for each bulb. Then we have the curly wire that runs from bulb to bulb to bulb back down to the column's base; this would be the "return" (earth, ground, negative) side, or V-.

If this is how they were wired, then they were wired "in series", meaning that the current to light the bulb would come in through the V+ wire, and then had to pass through one bulb to get to the next (via the V- curly wire) and so on. This presents us with two issues: 1) like Christmas lights of old, if one bulb burns out, all of the bulbs in that line go out; and 2) we have to take into account the voltage drop across each bulb and have a strong enough power supply for that. I'll try to show it here (in probably overly simple) terms...

__________________(straight wire to top bulb)___________________ V+ source
|
BULB1vvvvvvvvvvvvvBULB2vvvvvvvvvvvvvvBULB3vvvvvvvvvvvvvv V- source (vvvvv = curly wire)

Issue 1: Needless to say, if you remove one bulb from this (any bulb), then the other two are going out because the current path is broken - like opening a switch, it turns off the lights.

Issue 2: If each bulb is a +6 Volt bulb, then each bulb (in layman's terms) is going to use up 6 volts from the power source. So if there are three bulbs in this circuit (as seen on each side of the Central Pier) with each requiring +6 Volts, 6+6+6=18; we would need to have the power source (power supply) with an output voltage of +18 Volts. Bulb1 would use 6 volts, leaving +12 volts left for the rest of the circuit; the next, Bulb2, would use another 6 volts, leaving +6 volts for that last, Bulb3, in the circuit.

Issue 1 really is a problem with dealing with flasher bulbs; when the flasher element kicks in, it opens the current path inside the bulb very briefly to turn the bulb off. This would in turn make the other two bulbs go out until the flasher element cooled down (which only takes a second, sometimes less) and moved back into place to restore the current path and turn the bulb back on. And now that I'm trying to think about this, I can't remember if all lights on "Side 1" of the Central Pier flashed at the same time - all on, all off, all on, etc. If they did, then only one flasher bulb would be needed. If, on the other hand, each bulb on Central Pier Side 1 flashed on its own, then each bulb was a flasher, and there is a third wire hidden in there someplace to keep the power going to the other two bulbs while one of them is in its "blink out" phase - much akin to modern Christmas tree light strings. (And this brings up a third issue that just hit me; a "sub-issue" of Issue 2, which I'm coming to.)

Issue 2, as far as power supplies go, isn't much of a problem because they do make +18 Volt power supplies, and have done for quite a while - probably since the dawn of electronics in the late 19th Century (though by the time of the 1960s would have been much smaller and cooler-operating, being transistorized). Now that sub-issue I mentioned if the bulbs flash on their own, and not all on Side 1 blinking in unison: the voltage across each bulb. If there is that third wire hidden in there someplace to keep power to the other bulbs when a bulb "blinks out", then that full +18 volts would be present on each bulb at all times, regardless if one or two bulbs have "blinked out". This would instantly burn out a 6-volt bulb.

There are two ways to solve this: one is to just use a +6 Volt power supply, which also have been around since before the 1960s; the other is to use 18-volt bulbs for all three bulbs (though it would make more sense, in this case, to use a lower voltage bulb and power supply, like the more common 12-volt variety). Using a +6 Volt supply would apply only +6 volts to each bulb, so when one blinked out, the others wouldn't feel a surge and burn out; that third hidden wire would keep +6 volts on each bulb regardless of one or two were in their "blinked out" phase. The same goes for using the 12- or 18-volt bulbs and power supplies.

To keep things simple, each Side of the Central Pier should have its own V+ supply wire, and you can find a power supply with enough of a current output to handle three branches, so only one power supply can be used to power all three Sides. The Sides would be wired "in parallel" with the supply which would apply the same voltage level on each Side, and (again overly simplified) would look like this:

                   |---------------------Pier, Side 1---------------|
SUPPLY(V+)---------|---------------------Pier, Side 2---------------|
 |                |---------------------Pier, Side 3---------------|
 |                                                                 |
 |----------------------------Return(V-)---------------------------|


The devil is in the details here: whether each Side of the Pier blinks the bulbs in unison, or independently. Once that is determined with certainty, then I could create a much better wiring diagram for the Central Pier and its blinking lights. But for now, I hope this is at least (mostly?) understandable.

Dino.
 
I'll need to revise the later rotor plans based on the new info. The errors in mine are based on some assumptions made in Timerotor's build and a lack of photo references. Especially important is nailing the twinkling lights. Those were always just glossed over in my plans. I think we're on the right path.
 
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