Of course we missed you stranger!

Quote from: karsthotep on Dec 24, 2013, 05:44 pm
Miss me at all?

We certainly did! Welcome back!

Dino.

Welcome back Mr K:-)

Welcome back! How's the Console?

Hello there, stranger!  How's your Police Box doing?  Get any recent beauty shots with it?
Bill "the Doctor" Rudloff

Hey guys, the console and the TARDIS are in storage currently.  I have a 1 car garage townhouse so my space has become extremely limited.  That being said though I really need to get some projects going as the 50th anniversary has gotten the juices flowing again.  I am thinking of taking on a rebuild of the baker Time Rotor and building a master mould for a roundel and try my hand at fiberglassing. 

    I see the plans for the rotor have come pretty far.  Has there been any test builds?   I'd like to give this a shot with professionally cut acrylic pieces.  My last attempt was good, but everything was handcut so looked great from a distance or on film but up close very very asymmetrical.  Looks like  lespaceplie made a post in July referencing some possible prototypes being built.  Any idea where this stands? 

Karsten

And good to be back.  thanks everyone.

 

Quote from: karsthotep on Jan 08, 2014, 02:59 pm
...building a master mould for a roundel and try my hand at fiberglassing.

Very stinky! (Not the idea, but the resin and its fumes, not to mention that strong vinegar fume of the RTV when you pour the mould over the form.) Also, this can get very expensive; neither the cloth, resin, hardener, or RTV are cheap. If you're going for a Classic roundel ca. the late '70s to the end of the Classics in '89, then you'll need quite a bit of cloth, resin and hardener, and RTV for the mould. The roundels would look fabulous when finished, but it would be very messy work and time-consuming; you'd only be able to make one roundel at a time. (Not trying to discourage you, just letting you and everyone else know what's involved.)

But if you do go this route, then save a bit of money by not using expensive "mould release". A professional model-maker I know (David Merriman - a fellow Virginia Beach guy) says in his model-making talks at Cons and modeling competitions that Pam Cooking Spray works just as well - if not better - than the expensive mould release. And he should know; he makes loads of models for the military (wind tunnel and hydrodynamic testing), private individuals (he doesn't come cheap, though), and he's made models for several of the 'Star Trek' movies (ST V and VI), and some warp nacelles for TNG's Enterprise-D, as well as submarine models for "Hunt for Red October" and the U.S.S. Alligator model for the History Channel's documentary "The Union's Lost Submarine", in which he also appears and operates the Alligator model via RC.

Quote from: karsthotep on Jan 08, 2014, 02:59 pm
   I see the plans for the rotor have come pretty far... I'd like to give this a shot with professionally cut acrylic pieces.

Have you taken a look at Tap Plastics? (They're easy to Google.) They've got pre-cut shapes in various sizes and colors. I'm sure you could find anything you need there. And with those sizes you'd need for a Pertwee or Tom Baker rotor the pieces aren't expensive at all. In fact they're very reasonable. The only bits that you might have to cut would be the tubes (I think they come in 3-foot sections), but you could always put the cut end down and then the finished end would be up where everyone would see it.

Dino.

I am going to bump this thread again.  I would like to get a measurements sheet together so people can just print it out and it shows exactly what people will need for all the acrylic parts.  A build guide if you will.  We have allot of what we need in this thread we just need to consolidate into a full build diagram.  

Karst

I think http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=282.0 might be a good place to start, at least for the Tom Baker version. The images I've seen for the Pertwee version look much more intricate - nothing near as intricate as the Hartnell/Troughton version, but it still has many small different colored (green and yellow, I think) squares placed at different angles on those sides between the tubes, and I'd have to look to refresh my memory, but I think in the center area between the tubes as well.

Most of the overall measurements for the "basic" infrastructure of the Pertwee version seem to be the same as for the Tom Baker version (tube height, diameter, spacing; rotor covering; raised, mirrored "flat" base of the rotor; etc.), but with the color changed.

Once we get the Pertwee version nailed down, then maybe we could create a "Central Column/Time Rotor" sub-board, with segments from http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=280.0, http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=266.0, and http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=979.0 for the "1st/2nd Doctor's Version" thread. Then we could have Karst's "3rd Doctor's Version" thread. Followed by Timerotor's "4th Doctor's Version" thread. And lest we not forget warmcanofcoke's http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=3530.0 for the "5th -7th Doctor's Version" thread to finish up the Classic TV Series run. Later on we could pull bits from the http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=3413.msg37434#msg37434 article for the "8th Doctor's Version" thread. And eventually work our way through the New Series with some great info pulled from museumdave's, kiwidoc's, and biodoctor900's builds of the 2005 console.

Sorry to get carried away, but we've got so much great info on some of the time rotors/central columns so far, that with adding the Pertwee version into the mix, the time rotor subject seems to have just about enough interest to warrant its own sub-board under the Console Builds or Reference Board. (Maybe Reference would be better as it would have loads of measurements - and no doubt photos - in it?)

Dino.

I'm trying to figure out the Pertwee version of the rotor (i.e. before the opaque white panels between the large tubes or the circle and hemisphere tops.)

The main construction seems easy enough (thanks to the plans on here) but it's the angled "flags" of dark blue or black perspex running up the rod in the middle of each face I'm struggling with.
I've done 5 and angled them all 10 degrees to the left or right alternating each one.
Does this look right?

Also - there appear to be some small lights within the triangle in the centre
and a few wired up outside the tubes - but I don't know what they are connected to

There are also some yellow perspex panels but I can't figure out what they are attached to either

here are some illustrations to demonstrate where I am up to and a screen grab from the Time Monster














edited to add:
I've already realised that the flags are not only possibly too big - but the actual ones were not mounted in their centre but were each off-set to one side. I'll fix that in the next update.
I did wonder if there was some clear perspex in between the front of the large tubes to which the fairy lights and yellow oblongs were attched. There are some shots of the console that look like they are floating in thin air.

Just a wild guess, but is it possible that those yellow oblongs were mounted to the ends of the dark blue ones?

Notice that both of these yellow oblongs are in the exact same position with relation to the dark blue ones. (It's a shame that we can't see the other end of the yellow oblong on the far left to see if it's mounted the same way.)

And then there are those thin wiry springy thingies (on either side of the pinkish panel). Are they part of the fairy lights? Or are they just springy thingies to hold the fairy lights in place?

Dino.

I imagine the springs are just for detailing, rather than intended for a support/structural purpose with the smaller lights.

Galacticprobe - you seem to have nailed it with the suggestion that the vertical yellow oblongs were mounted to the edges of the darker horizontal ones.

I've re-adjusted my model and studied some more screen grabs.
I've kept 5 horizontal perspex strips but only attached yellow verticals to the bottom 4
Attached in this way it does indeed seem to replicate the shots where the yellow strips seem to be sticking out and not attached to anything.



quick, cheap renders to show the new additions (one side completed only until I knew if it worked)

All 3 sides done

lights and wires to add now (and the wires from the neon tubes that go down the central toblerone

Wow! That looks impressive! I'm glad I was able to help with my guess about those yellow bits. Now after seeing what you've done with it so far, I'd say as far as pre-"Five Doctors" consoles go, this column has to take 2nd Place after the Hartnell column when it comes to complex innards.

Once they did the console refit and made the red tubes innards it was a much simpler design. It's like the earlier columns had some thought put into their innards, and the later ones were just like "Ah... just put three colored tubes in there, with a light in each tube, and it will be fine." (That is, until that "wedding cake" column of the "Five Doctors" console came along.)

I hope you'll show us all angles once you're done with this? <he asks hopefully> And are you planning to do a full-size build of it once you've got the renders finalized? (It would make a great conversation piece sitting on the coffee table all lit up.)

Dino.