Quote from: galacticprobe on Feb 19, 2012, 07:17 am
If you look at the column cover of the Hartnell console in the Reference section you'll actually see two seams in the cover like the one in the above Tom Baker photo: one seam on each side, and each seam is held closed by a small strip which is screwed down each side of the seam. (You can really see the seams in the "Inferno" photos where the column is raised: http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=1097.0.)
Dino.

that's what it looks like

I think it's one seam per bent sheet...

And in any case, I am absolutely certain that it's only two bent sheets (two halves) at most.

guess I goofed. Some of those Images from Inferno almost make it look like it was in three pieces.

edit: unless you count the Cap or top as the third piece of perspex.

Quote from: warmcanofcoke on Feb 20, 2012, 08:29 pm
edit: unless you count the Cap or top as the third piece of perspex.

I'll give you that one

Quote from: warmcanofcoke on Feb 20, 2012, 08:10 pm
So if my math is right the circumference is about 70.65". So I need a piece of Plexiglas 32" by 70 11/16" to make the cylinder part of the time column.

Remember to get enough for whatever overlap you decide on. Those seams look like they may be a bit over an inch wide.

I did a bit more screen cap research:
The original tube appears to have a slightly rounded edge at the top where it meets the disk, which leads me to think that it may have been a casting. This form persisted until at least "The Chase" but appears to have become the one with the seams and rivets by "Power of the Daleks" and seems to have stayed in that form until "The Five Doctors" where the rivets are gone, and I can't see a seam for certain.

It looks like there are about 12 rivets around the top and may be one every 6 inches down the side. (Uh oh, now I'm rivet counting.... )

Crispin

I'll probably want to try for a 5 Doctors style Cylinder, as seen in the first post in this topic. I like the fact the the join looks like the two ends are (perhaps) glued with some sort of solvent glue all the way down the seam. Now one day I will probably want to try my hand at a Five Doctors console(some of those switches are just too expensive, and monitors are a little expensive as well), I'm probably going to make a third Doctor console, But I want to be able to "redress" the prop so that I could use it as a fourth or fifth Doctor console when the mood strikes. From your plans it looks like the basic structures are the same, I would just be building 12 instrument panels instead of six(swopping  them out as needed), and I would have to change the colored filters in the time rotor.

Do'h - I overlooked the five doctors seam in your first post!

The plans I drew up still need some updating, as we think the console was originally slightly smaller (by about 4"?) - Celation will have the dimensions he's using. We think it was built outward slightly to accommodate larger panels in (I think) the later Pertwee era. After than it seems to have remained constant until the end of the original series. The five doctors console has the same diameter as the one it replaced.

So yes, it should be possible to have exchangeable panels. I've considered doing this myself. For the earliest console it may be possible to make slightly oversized panels, depending on how accurate you want to be.

As I've mentioned, the plans I drew are only approximations from photos, with some guesswork, so don't treat them as definitive.

Crispin

I think your plans are still a good place to start. .... you know a slightly smaller console might make it a little easier to store. I've come to the conclusion that I'd like to be able to disassemble the console so I can move it from my studio to a local sci-fi convention (or just another room). 

Hello Warmcanofcoke,

I got my time rotor cover made by a plastics company and having seen The Five Doctors console up close I think it is probably made in the same way.

This involves curving two sheets around a mould and then welding the plastic at the joins so there are two seams on opposite sides of the column.  The welding does not leave a clear line but causes a distortion.  Also where the seams are located the top disk of plastic is chamfered at this point to create a straight edge.  Unless viewed from the top this is not going to notice.

Not this helps with your intended method of construction but the information might be of interest.


Best regards,
Sean Clarke.

Hi Seanclarke1,

I was just looking at your tenth anniversary console and have to say I'm impressed. It looks wonderful. I had been wondering if there were a way to melt the seam into something a little more attractive. Is it still called "welding" if your doing it to plastic? I'd like to look this method up on Google. Also how much did your plastics firm charge you to make that cylinder?

warmcanofcoke
Cheers,
~
Nathan King

Hello Nathan,

Glad you liked my console.

I'm not sure if the term welding is truly appropriate in this case although a plastic welding does exist.  Perhaps someone more familiar with these terms can give more accurate definitions.

When I built my console in 1999 the clear column cost me approximately £500.00.  Some of the cost was due to a former having to be built to get the right curve.

More recent enquires have led me to believe that if the former does not have to be paid for then today it would cost approximately £350.00.  Not sure if this includes VAT or not.

Best I can do I'm afraid.


Best regards,
Sean.

Well, I do know you get what you pay for. On the other hand I know most of the final cost is labor. If I can do it myself I hope the final expense will not break the budget.

*edit - Feb 25th 2012

Home Despot prices

36 x 72 x .093 $50.98 USD Crystalite Acrylic (for cylinder)

30 x 36 x .093 $21.98 USD Crystalite Acrylic (for top cap)

* edit - March 5th 2012

Lowe's Prices

36 x 72 x .118 $54.98 USD Optix (for cylinder)

30 x 60 x .08 $39.98 Duraplex (for slightly smaller cylinder)

Quote from: timerotor on Mar 18, 2011, 08:55 am
Okay, Hi,
here's what I recall.
the base is an MDF ring, make two so you can do a temparary top aswell as the bottom. you literally bend a flat sheet of plexiglass (bendy Perspex) around that at the base AND the top at the same time screwing it in as you go.
You will be left with your casing.
Then you get 2 strips of metal and bolt them together (one inside the cilinder, the other outside it)
this gives you a strong hold down the vertical line.
You then unscrew the top piece of MDF and put in your Perspex top! Do it upside down so you don't loose it inside and it's easier to drill holes in and screw in, et voilà !!!
It's a bit scary but can be done!
Please ignore ALL my Previous measurement estimates. I have the correct dims now, Correct dims are 30 inches tall by 21.5 inches wide, ( I'll check that)
all the best mate
TR

Found this nice description of how Timerotor made his time rotor.

I would imagine that depending on how flexible the plexi was, careful application of a heat gun would make it less likely to crack as you were bending it around the MDF rings? Of course thinner plexi would be more flexible (1/16" bends easier than 1/8" thickness).

Dino.