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Doctor IZ's TARDIS

Started by Doctor Iz, May 03, 2006, 03:20 am

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Doctor Iz

Jun 12, 2006, 01:32 am #75 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:30 am by doctoriz
Ladies and Gents,

Inspite of the run on post above, which Purp has helped me visualize better with his drawing -- thanks Purp.  I still have one question, the 1" thickness of your wall consists of stiles + plywood or plywood alone?

My stiles are 1" thick and my plywood is 3/4", therefore my wall thickness per your illustration would be 1 3/4" thick instead of 1".  That would leave me 4" minus 1 3/4" = 2 1/4" of internal corner on the opposite side.  1/2" of stile from the door will be concealed behind the post, I got that finally and therefore there is a total of 1 3/4" of space left to build a frame, yours was 2 1/2".
If I got that right, then I am ready to proceed to cutting the plywood to size. 

Here are results of today's work:
Hangerboltsinposts.jpg

JakeandtheTardisposts.jpg

Postsupportforplumb.jpg

StilePile.jpg

My step son, Jacob is helping me today to stack the corners and stiles.

Cheers,
Jon
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Logos/DRIZ_rev20080226copy-2.jpg)

Doctor Iz

Jun 12, 2006, 02:13 am #76 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:31 am by doctoriz
Okay -  I ADMIT IT, I NEED TO BE COMMITTED.  :o

Here's my crude drawing of what I am trying to put out there.
I am beating this down.  Sorry everyone. :'(
Does the plywood follow parallel with all the timber stiles - no matter where it goes?  Like in Tom's build!
On the door side, the hinge connects to the framing, okay - got that, does the hinge attach to the timber alone or the timber and plywood together?
I am really feeling badly about all this non-sense.   I just hate to have to buy more wood after trial by fire and screw up all my wood pieces.

Schematic.jpg

The dilemma schematic:
DilemmaSchematic.jpg

Thanks a million and your patience!
Jon
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Logos/DRIZ_rev20080226copy-2.jpg)

kiwidoc

Jun 12, 2006, 03:47 am #77 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:32 am by doctoriz
Hi Jon, just writing on the run, so I may have missed some points in your earlier posts but as I understand it:

The hinges can attach to any part/s of the door that you ant, so long as what the attach to as firm and attached to the rest of the door.  Mine simply go into the side of the vertical rail, the plywood backing is just up aginst the hinge but not screwed to it.

The space behind your wall ply - up to you - that ply is very thick so unlikely to be flapping around a lot.  You could easily stick some packing strips behind it to make sure that it has no give - this is what I'd do, just so you know that you can lean on it or put a coat hook in thew corner one day...   :)

- glen

Scarfwearer

Jun 12, 2006, 10:01 am #78 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:32 am by doctoriz
Just to emphasise Glen's point a little, there are many ways to build a police box. For contrast, here's a picture of how I did my corners:

The%20Do7.gif

I added some beading to cover the gap so the light wouldn't show through when I light the box from the inside.

I'm not recommending what I did (which predates Glen's manual, and I think the design there is better), just pointing out that there are some options here. What you do will depend on your available materials and tools as well as your own preference.

Crispin

Sorvan

Jun 12, 2006, 02:42 pm #79 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:33 am by doctoriz
Quote from: driz board=build thread=1146626413 post=1150078397Does the plywood follow parallel with all the timber stiles - no matter where it goes?  Like in Tom's build!

On the door side, the hinge connects to the framing, okay - got that, does the hinge attach to the timber alone or the timber and plywood together?


Hi Jon,

I'm of the opinion that you don't want empty spaces in the corners - having all parts of the walls (stiles and plywood) extend to the corners will give it added strength.  If your stiles are too short for the walls, I'd just stick another piece of wood in to fill the gap.

I'd do the doors a bit differently myself.  Since the door frame will be under more stress than most of the rest of the box, I'd beef it up a bit.  For the door frame, instead of using those 1" thick stair treads, I'd use a 2x4 (or 2x6, or whatever it needs to be), and then inset the plywood into that.  I'd also stick a 2x4 in the corner instead of the 1" x 1 3/4" piece in your drawing to make a more solid frame for the hinges to attach to.

Here's what I'm talking about:
corner.jpg

Does this make sense?

Colin

Doctor Iz

Jun 13, 2006, 03:04 am #80 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:34 am by doctoriz
Purp, Glen, Colin and Crispin:

Thanks for the input!  Colin, your sketch makes perfect sense.  Between what you and Purp have said, is completely sinking in now.  I like the idea of beefing up the door framing with a 2x4. 

I am going to make my measurements of the distances between the post once they are set and braced for accuracy and plumb, I'll  then start cutting some plywood to dimensions.

Once again, your guys are absolutely great.  Thanks for dealing with my neurosis or obsessive compulsive thinking!

FYI:
Karst and Purple got their Fresnel lens from Hardware Specialty Co. Their particular lens measurements: height 6" x diameter 6.5"

Hardware Specialty was very helpful. They have about a total of 30-40 glass 360 degree Fresnel lenses left in stock. They have not sold the glass ones in quite some time. Cost is $44.00 US.
The information below is courtesy of Karst for those interested.

Contact: Joe Wilson
Hardware Specialty Co.
3419 11th Ave S.W.
Seattle, WA 98134

Phone(206)624-5785
Fax (206)682)-0186

Web: http://home.att.net/~hardspec/
email: electwire@att.net

Just got the Fresnel lens in today, 12 June 06. The lens measures 5 3/4" in height and 5 1/2" in diameter for those interested. Here's a couple pics:


Heres the pics:


th_FresnelLensediameter.jpg  th_FresnelLenseheight.jpg


What do you guys think?  Again $44.00 US.

Cheers,
Jon

Hi Jon, when you add pictures to your messages, could you put in one link, then press "enter" or "return" on your keyboard before adding the next link please?  It's just that it keeps the board nice and neat you see if you're adding large images.

Cheers, P!


Purp - gotcha!  I'll make my pictures smaller too if that helps.  Sorry for the inconvienence.  Jon
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Logos/DRIZ_rev20080226copy-2.jpg)

TG

Jun 13, 2006, 07:24 am #81 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:34 am by doctoriz
Hi Jon,
Very nice fresnel lens! That is gonna look great  :D

TG

Doctor Iz

Jun 19, 2006, 04:22 am #82 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:35 am by doctoriz
Thanks TG for your comments.   I just wanted to say again that your build is looking incredible.
I did not get much done on my build this week, life got a little busy.
I hope to have more accomplished next weekend.

Kind regards,
Jon
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Logos/DRIZ_rev20080226copy-2.jpg)

Dematerialiser

Jun 20, 2006, 06:21 am #83 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:39 am by doctoriz
Hi Jon,
Yes - really nice lens there. Mine is as wide as it is tall (which is ok, if you want that look) but I really like the tall and thin look that yours has. Oh, and nice looking build by the way! Keep up the good work.

cheers
Chris

PS: My son is a bit too small to help out yet (7 months..  ;) ) But you're lucky to have a 'Doctors Little Helper' around the place  (..having tried to balance two posts at once on my own...and failed...  ;D)

Doctor Iz

Jun 20, 2006, 08:57 pm #84 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:40 am by doctoriz
Quote from: dematerialiser board=build thread=1146626413 post=1150784473PS: My son is a bit too small to help out yet (7 months..  ;) ) But you're lucky to have a 'Doctors Little Helper' around the place  (..having tried to balance two posts at once on my own...and failed...  ;D)


Chris, thanks again.
I love having a 'Doctors Little Helper' around.  He is so excited about Dr. WHO and the TARDIS.  He is about the same age as I was when I started watching Dr. WHO, the Tom Baker years. 

Watch out for those falling posts, the same thing happened to be me, that's why I build those braces to keep the posts upright and plumb.

Kind regards,
Jon ;D
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Logos/DRIZ_rev20080226copy-2.jpg)

Mark

Jun 21, 2006, 03:52 pm #85 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:40 am by doctoriz
Looking good Dr.IZ.

Must be great building your box with your son, when it's all done - just think of all the memories you'll both have.

The brace thing you've employed for corner post erection is a simple but brilliant idea. I think no TARDIS workshop should be without one!

Doctor Iz

Jun 23, 2006, 12:22 am #86 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:40 am by doctoriz

Mark,
Couldn't agree more with your comments.  I certainly appreciate your feedback as well.
Jacob and I are really making some good memories.  These are the times that I will look back on when he's older, graduating, getting married, having children etc.!  My found memories of my dad and I were watching Tom Baker as Dr. WHO.  Memories = priceless.

Thanks again. 

Cheers,
Jon
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Logos/DRIZ_rev20080226copy-2.jpg)

Doctor Iz

Jun 25, 2006, 05:54 am #87 Last Edit: Oct 31, 2010, 10:47 pm by Scarfwearer
Quote from: purpleblancmange board=build thread=1146626413 post=1150050296Hi Jon,
Regarding your question about doors and their hanging to the posts - please enjoy the marvels of this five minute biro pen wonder.   :P
Anyway, I hope this makes it kind of clear for you.
[noIMG]http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/tubularbells/cornerpostconstruction.jpg[/img]
If you need further assistance, just yell.


FYI for those following my build.  Purps picture is not showing up on the thread.  I'll repost for completeness.

purpleschematiccornerpostconstru-1.jpg

Cheers,
Jon 8-)
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Logos/DRIZ_rev20080226copy-2.jpg)

Doctor Iz

Jun 25, 2006, 06:29 am #88 Last Edit: Oct 31, 2010, 10:47 pm by Scarfwearer
Hot off the press!  ::)

More work accomplished this weekend.  I got the walls sized and fitted.  I made the header and internal door framing for the front doors.
It was really awesome seeing the 'old girl' starting to come together.  I am starting to feel that this will all work out in the end!  ::).

Header pics:
I wish I had a dado to do this!

Chiseloutheader.jpg

Chiseloutheaderfor0.jpg


Front corner post with internal door framing, after everyones input -- thanks!  
The header above will sit horizontal to this vertical stud.

Frontpostswith2x4framingfordoors.jpg

[noIMG]http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Header%20and%20Door%20Framing/Frontcornerwithframeandleftinsidewa.jpg[/img]

Frontcornerwithframeandleftinsid-1.jpg

Cheers,
Jon ;)
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Logos/DRIZ_rev20080226copy-2.jpg)

Doctor Iz

Jun 25, 2006, 06:44 am #89 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2010, 02:42 am by doctoriz
Now for the wall pics:

Leftinsidewall.jpg

Leftoutsidewall.jpg


Oops, I forgot to mount the header. I might have the same problem as Peter did, build TOO BIG!
Front.jpg

Frontonangle.jpg

OutsideleftbackwallwithTim.jpg

That's where I am at as of today.  She's starting to get that TARDIS feeling --lol!  Yeah, I know, I am a dork!

Cheers,
Jon
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Logos/DRIZ_rev20080226copy-2.jpg)