Looks like progress was made then it was abandoned for 5 years then rediscovered and this is what it looks like...

What happened with the doorway?  Seems to be a bit missing out of the arch, between two roundels.

Quote from: kert gantry on Apr 30, 2017, 09:56 pm
What this build? Well, it's err... err...

Quote from: TigerMan1995 on Apr 30, 2017, 10:31 pm
Looks like progress was made then it was abandoned for 5 years then rediscovered and this is what it looks like...

Not totally abandoned over that time but you're not far off... 

Quote from: rassilonsrod on Apr 30, 2017, 10:42 pm
What happened with the doorway?  Seems to be a bit missing out of the arch, between two roundels.

Do you mean the oblong chunks taken out of the zig-zags on the sides of the door frame? They're spaces for metal blocks onto which the hinges will be soldered. Once the blocks and hinges are inserted the spaces will be filled in at the ends so won't show from the outside after the doors are hung.     

this is awesome!!

Looks like Susan had some friends follow her home (as they always seem to do). They had quite the party and now the Doctor is quite angry! As punishment he'll make her go to human high school where she'll learn to behave and keep out of trouble.  Hopefully he'll be able to find all the parts or they'll be stuck here for quite a while.

Oh my giddy aunt... If that is how Susan behaves, no wonder The Doctor had to threaten her with "a jolly good smacked bottom"! 

T

While the jump-leads are back on this thread I thought I might as well put up some snaps of how the main walls came together, as it's a relatively easy and, more importantly, cheap way of doing them. A decidedly Blue Peter-ish alternative to laser-cutting or 3D printing!

         

I looked around for some kind of plastic tubing for the roundel drums, but couldn't find any with a suitable inner diameter or wall thickness for a CO-scale build. Eventually I found some cardboard tubes the Post Office sell for packaging, which were just right. Sliced up and stuck together on a sheet of styrene (with bits of acrylic tubing temporarily inserted to stop the rings going out of shape), they quickly formed the basis for a convincing TARDIS wall.  

         

Once set in place, each drum was given a good soaking with superglue (one of those big multipacks from the Poundshop as a lot of glue was needed! Nasty fumes too). This was to make filling and sanding of each drum much easier; necessary to hide the spiral 'seam' that goes all the way through this kind of tube. I filled in the gaps with standard grey-green Milliput (the cheapest variety, the colour of which when set is uncannily similar to the original TARDIS interior paint job!). Although one packet goes a surprisingly long way, some infilling with wood and bits of dowel saved on Milliput and helped keep the overall weight down.

         

Holes cut out of the styrene backing, given a good all-over sanding, then sprayed with acrylic primer. Sides, top and base cut from sheet styrene mimic the construction of the full size originals. Now all that's left is to spray them the requisite shade of green and start on the moulded roundel backs. Any advice on a quick and not too expensive way of doing those would be gratefully received!

.

Love how you did this, what an extremely clever idea, so simple too. Well done & thought of. 


Chris.

I love your construction for the wall, kert! If I can I might as well use that method for my walls dubbing it 'The Kert Gantry Method' maybe. It has such an interesting tone to it. Nice job!

Beautiful absolutely beautiful

VERY nice wall there! A great solution to avoid laser cutting...
For my roundel backings I vac formed plastic using a home-made frame and vacuum cleaner.
Just make a suitable master for the roundel, heat up a sheet of white styrene plastic in an oven and then press the melted sheet over the top of the mould with the vacuum cleaner attached...

WOW, markofrani another clever way of doing the roundels, well done to you too. This is what I like cleaver, cheap  brilliant ideas for doing things. Great stuff guys. 

Chris.

Thank-you markofrani, that's HUGELY helpful.

I was considering something along these lines, after watching Mat Irvine moulding some heated styrene in a clip on the Warriors of the Deep DVD, and your demo is an improvement on the illustrious Mr. Irvine's! Bee-yootiful TARDIS doorway there too. Shows why your work is considered a benchmark for model makers around these parts. 

And thanks everyone for the encouraging comments. Have to say, once I'd hit on the basic approach I found doing these walls quite fun in a methodical, bubble-wrap popping kind of way. Definitely easier and more enjoyable than the maddening process of recreating the photographic blowup walls!       

Does anyone know how to make the doors open the way they did in the show? 

TigerMan, you might want to take a read through this topic: http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=1035.0. It not only has dimensions for the console room main doors (Classic Series), but it also has some drawings (speculating) on how the doors were made so they could open and close.

I think in there, somewhere, is also a discussion on how the doors were operated. (It's been a while since I've read through it entirely, but there is a lot of info in it so you might find what you're looking for in there.)

I hope this is helpful.

Dino.