1:13 Brachacki TARDIS laser cut acrylic + styrene

Started by lespaceplie, May 25, 2017, 06:43 pm

Previous topic - Next topic

lespaceplie

May 25, 2017, 06:43 pm Last Edit: Apr 29, 2019, 10:30 pm by lespaceplie
This is the start of a new project that requires fast and simple construction. The other hybrid box model I hadn't completed is being canceled.

This model is tailored to make the best use of the laser cutter while avoiding as much manual cutting as possible (in my case with the mini tilt arbor table saw). Rather than replicate a specific box, a generic one has been devised that avoids some of the iffy aspects of design or construction (e.g. beveled door panels). Were this a full size prop, it would be very close to the TYJ instruction sketches that weren't actually followed when the TYJ or TVM props were built. It's not one bit closer to being more like a real police box, though - just a vaguely pleasant geometry.

This is about as small as you can go without the detail becoming too coarse for the materials. The quarter rounds and door backing are styrene. The lintel signs and phone panel will be made from Ponoko's 2-tone acrylic sheet. The blue sheet reveals white when etched. It's a decent shade that will work even if it doesn't nail any of the previous props - especially after being dirtied down.

Only the base and roof sections will require angled edge cuts and filing. I'll share the templates as soon as the prototype is complete. As for the fresnel, well, you're on your own for that. Lathing an acrylic rod is the route I'm taking. Here's the layout.No message is associated with this attachment.IMG_2656.JPG

Davros Skaro

Good luck with it, I hope it all works out for you. It looks like it will be a great build.

Chris.
Chris.

lespaceplie

Thanks! I'm sure I've mentioned in other threads, but free laser cutting and cheap plastic are helping things immensely. I can pretty much buy scraps and cut at will. If this generic model works as planned, there's no reason not to apply the same idea to the others. I have some ideas about scaling consoles to convenient materials as well.

lespaceplie

Free library laser tests proved inadequate for the thinnest material. Unless you can find a service which can handle .75mm sheets, this will be a part of the design that must instead use styrene sheet and blade cutting. That's not too bad, though.

lespaceplie

I've hijacked my own thread! This started out as a generic TARDIS, but the Brachacki original proved just as practical. It's also an item of priority need for the slit-scan titles project where it will appear.

The scale has changed, but it still operates on the same convenience of scaling to available materials. This time it gets smaller by applying 2mm to the inch. This scale goes finer than the high quality laser cut acrylic minimum of 1.5mm thick so thinner styrene sheet (and quarter rounds) will be used where needed.

Here's a sample of the laser cutting: the understructure of the top roof tier. It will also be the access lid for battery and electronics controlling the lamp.

IMG_2656.JPG

lespaceplie

Things are coming along. The four sides are merely propped up here. Styrene sheets and quarter rounds need to be bonded next.

One detail that the laser cutting was helpful for is how the lower roof tier fits flush with the edge of the post caps. There's a definite gap there that is now represented in the model with a clean, narrow cut that will not disappear once painted.

IMG_2659.JPG

lespaceplie

The fresnel is fresh off the lathe! Actually, my dad made two for me.

fresnel.jpg

boxman550


davidnagel

Quote from: boxman550 on Dec 04, 2017, 12:30 pm
howd you get the lanturn made?


Quote from: lespaceplie on Aug 07, 2017, 03:32 pm
The fresnel is fresh off the lathe! Actually, my dad made two for me.

fresnel.jpg


:D

Why does clear plastic components like this look so damn sexy?
Regards
David

boxman550


The14thDr

Quote from: boxman550 on Dec 04, 2017, 07:54 pm
ok any ideas how he did it?

Using a lathe, which is a whole new skill in itself. I've never used one myself, but basically you attach the material that you want to use (usually a wooden dowel, but people often use metal, or in this case, acrylic) and the large spins the material at really high speeds. While the material is spinning you use a chisel to "turn" it to the shape/design you want.

Here's a video that will probably explain it a lot better than I just did:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=N92XNewzrpc
"Would you like a jelly baby?"

elkad


lespaceplie

That's surprisingly feasible, well, in acrylic.

lespaceplie

Jan 30, 2018, 10:26 pm #13 Last Edit: Jan 30, 2018, 11:30 pm by lespaceplie
The time has come to make tiny pebbled glass so I did a quick & crude experiment casting translucent polyclay from a hardened polyclay press mold. It works surprisingly well.

The impressions were done with a rounded pencil point directly in the polyclay. I will take better care with tighter spacing and more even depth in the final version. It could probably go thinner as well. This test is really more like 1:10.

I used Sculpey Premo because it was readily available, but there are clearer polyclays out there. Pardo Professional Art Clay 000 Translucent is allegedly the one to beat. Sculpey's mucous type appearance would actually do, though - especially after it's dirtied down.

I believe this technique would work up to 1:4 scale. Anything larger would probably be better cast in resin.

pebbled mini.jpg

lespaceplie

Apr 29, 2019, 10:41 pm #14 Last Edit: Apr 29, 2019, 10:50 pm by lespaceplie
A fall to the floor (cracks!), more accurate measurements and a simple change of mind meant that I started reworking this project.

It was originally an odd scale but is now properly 1:13. Some parts have been re-cut, and a little of the structure has been revised - particularly the sign boxes. The inner trim on those was challenging at this scale, but laminating the front face will produce a precise result. The translucent sign strips will be dropped in after the model has been painted. Angled styrene strips are being used for the bevels on the base instead of filing.

A couple of personal preferences that will differ from the original Brachacki's appearance are painting the window trim blue instead of white and making the door sign white text on blue. I was never fond of the white sign.

If the revised version works as easily as I think it will, a virtual kit might be feasible. It wouldn't be a kit for sale but simply free files for anyone to use with a laser cutter and a modicum of tools.