Hi Everyone!
I thought it was about time I started recording progress of my build which I started about a month ago. I only have a few pictures but now that I've opened a thread here I promise to take more. My Tardis is based on plans by Les Kenny which I found online and purchased in PDF form ad-free for a small fee. The plans have both metric and imperial dimensions and using common timber sizes which makes things a lot simpler. There are some aspects of the design which I have decided to do differently such as the roof.

This weekend I worked on the post to base attachment and was the first time I actually assembled any of the components to get a feel for the overall dimensions of the box. I have to say the first thing that struck me in researching the project was the size of the thing. i actually considered building a 3/4 scale so it would fit indoors but then I would have to redo all the plans and it wouldn't be the real thing, so I ended up sticking with the full size box. I am sure it will be the first thing anyone notices about it when they see it, i.e. how BIG it is!

I'm building this box to be relocatable, partly because so that we can rent it out to recoup the cost of building it. But I am prepared to sacrifice that if it becomes impractical. Weight is a problem as I have decided at the beginning not to sacrifice structure integrity for the sake of portability. So far, so good. I figure as long as there is no part that can't be carried and set in place by two persons then it's still feasible.

More to come!

This weekend I worked on walls .
.. and assembled the base, posts and roof for the first time..

The plans specify ply for both the wall and panel framing but I decided to use ply (18mm marine) for the backing and do the framing separately in 19mm pine. Notice there is no chamfer.. Each frame is built up as a standalone piece using biscuits to join the stiles and rails together. Then I will run the whole thing through the router to add 22.5 degree chamfer before gluing and screwing the frame to the ply backing.

Is this better? I'm not sure but it seems to be working out so far.

Brucer, which model TARDIS are you building? That will determine the chamfer on the rails and stiles. The Brachacki (Original and Altered) had no chamfer; her rails and stiles were square. The Newbery through to the Hudolin did have the chamfer. The Richmond-Thomas (New Series) TARDISes only have a chamfer on the outer edges of the rails and stiles, with the main part of them being square.

Dino.

Hi Dino,
Thanks for that info. My TARDIS plans came from http://www.buildeazy.com/tardis-1.php and are modeled on the Earl Court box, which I understand is itself a 1996 built replica based on a 1929 Gilbert Mackenzie Trench design.
The plans specify a 25 degree chamfer. I had to specially order a router bit for this and the nearest I could find was 22.5 degrees, which I reckon is fine. I wasn't aware some of the classic boxes don't have a chamfer at all and I might therefore be inclined to leave it square but I've ordered the bit now ($AU75 inc postage!!) so I'll give it a try. Actually using a router bit with guide bearing will give the part square, part chamfer finish you mention, so to learn that matches at least one version of TARDIS is nice.
On another matter, you may be able to advise... the window construction in my plans is a bit odd http://www.buildeazy.com/tardis-31.php and I think I'd rather build up real frames and have at least some of them opening. I am undecided whether to make the frame flush with the outside wall frame, or set back at the same depth as the wall panel ply sheeting. From a construction and water proofing perspective I like the former, but all the box pictures I've seen are the latter. I've already ruled out doing "real" police box style windows as they are metal framed and would be too difficult to reproduce. Likewise the top-inwards opening setup.
What are your thoughts on this?

I'm not too concerned about perfectly reproducing any particular TARDIS or Police Box but I do want it to look right. If anything I'm more inclined to a Police Box, even though it's for my wife and being a Doctor Who fan, it's definitely a TARDIS in her eyes. I'll probably go as far as adding some TARDIS sound effects but much more than that and transportability becomes impossible.

Well, just MHO (and it is just mine; your "Old Girl" has to please you - and your wife... but since you asked), after looking over those window frame plans in your link, I have to say that they do somewhat resemble the metal frames of some Met Boxes. But if you're looking to better replicate TARDIS-type window frames, I would suggest looking at the TARDIS Builders Workshop Manual. (I've got instructions on how to download that, but I'll PM you the link to make it easier for you than having to go to another thread and read more.) It's a free download PDF and was written by one of our members. It shows you different methods of making window frames, and what the different variations of the frames look like. There are no measurements because each TARDIS version is different, but that's not a problem since you've got measurements already.

As for making the windows so they can open (hinged at the bottom, lean in at the top with hinged "arms" to limit their range of travel)... well that can present a whole can of worms because it's nigh on impossible to weatherproof them. Even photos of real Met Boxes in our Met Box Catalogue that show the inside of some boxes show the rust and watermarks from the hinges and where water got in. The only TARDIS prop with opening windows was the Brachacki Original, and sometime during the Hartnell era even those stopped being shown open and they haven't opened since. (Knock on wood; the jinx is out there now. Watch: there will come an episode where the TARDIS windows open, and Capaldi's mighty eyebrows will be furtively peeking out of them.)

All of the window frames are usually set back so they're even with the rest of the door panels, and not with the rails and stiles. This is for TARDIS props as well as Met Boxes, so I would go with that method, and I believe it's shown in the Manual I'll PM you.

Also, I wouldn't worry if your TARDIS ends up looking more akin to a Met Box because (yes; I'm one of those that likes them), the TARDIS used in the two feature films with Peter Cushing as "Doctor Who" ("Dr. Who and the Daleks", 1965; and "Daleks - Invasion Earth 2150 A.D.", 1966) resembled a Met Box more than any TARDIS used in the Series, right down to having only one door - the right-hand one, with the St. John logo - opening outward.

I hope this answered all of your questions. If I've missed anything just let me know, and if I'm a bit off on something I know someone will correct me on it (or expound on something - like if someone knows in which story the original TARDIS prop windows stopped opening).

Dino.

It's been a couple of weeks since my last update. I've been working on walls mostly. A 22.5 degree router bit arrived in the mail so I was able to do the panel bevelling before attaching the ply backing...


I had some trouble getting a nice clean cut for the windows in the ply using a jIgsaw. I tried using masking tape but the saw tended to lift it rather than cut through it. In the end I decided to cut it in a bit and then finish it up with the router..

Here's the first assembled wall..


I had to route the bottom of the wall edges in order to accommodate the bolts and bracket that hold the posts to the base. If I'd thought abour this sooner I would have positioned the brackets further out. tip... don't try and route freehand!


Here you can see the first window cut.. rough as guts!..


Then I improved..


So I have two walls assembled and decided to put it all together since I need to do the lightboxes and for that I need to take measurements off the assembled TARDIS. I't beginning to look like a TARDIS now and not a portaloo  

Sorry about the sideways pictures.. that's not how they display on my PC but when I post them they come out this way.

Brucer, check out my post here: http://tardisbuilders.com/index.php?topic=5617.msg66621#msg66621 (especially the blue letter paragraph). It might help with your photo posting problems.

Dino.

Thanks Dino. I read that but even after I tried flipping the pictures and resaving them, then reposting it still comes out sideways. I can open it on anything (paint, browser) on my computer and its the right way up, but when uploaded it's sideways.

Fixed that for you.

I used Ubuntu so I used GIMP to rotate the images and resave them. I think GIMP maybe available for Windows, but after using Windows 8 and pulling my hair out I've left it and Adobe products behind.

And by the way that's a great looking TARDIS you have there!

Thankyou!
I've gone back and fixed my orginal post now.

Another weekend, another post...
still building walls. Now my TARDIS has it's full compliment of 3 1/2 walls.


Next job is the door, or the sign boxes, or maybe the windows...

Great work so far.
I particularly love the detailing on the corner posts, something I didn't have the skills to do.
I think It's going to look really good when it's finished.

Russell

Thanks Russell,
That was a lot of trouble to do.. I spent weeks just on the posts because of it.
I see that most other builders use a different construction with strips of quad to get the beading effect on the corners, but my plans call for a different post construction altogether, so rather than deviate from the plans I went with the hard way. The construction detail is shown here http://www.buildeazy.com/tardis-23.php
Once I'd done the first couple of cuts and had the settings right on the saw, the rest were much easier. Then a few passes with the electric plane and finish up with hand plane and sander. The result is worth it I think!
Tip... glue, don't screw the post pieces together before cutting the corner detail. Timber power tools don't like metal screws!  I realised this in time fortunately, and removed the screws before putting the saw through.

Today I decided to tackle window frames.
Here I have the pieces cut and routed. I decided to do half lap mitre joints on the corners hoping I wouldn't regret it, but they worked out well.


Test assembly..  I was actually surprised it fit together so snug. This requires a fair bit of precision yet somehow I did it without any mistakes.

8 window frames! I had been dreading this thinking it would take forever but it only took me a few hours to get them all done.

..and test for fit. Need some sanding and fine tuning for fit but I'm pretty happy with the result.


For fitting the glass (which I don't have yet) I plan to put a rebate around the inside of each section of the frame, then drop the panes in and pin a thin backing strip of timber to hold them in place. I am also thinking of adding a frame in which the windows will be mounted. i think it will look better that way (from the inside) and also fix up the first wall cutout which was a bit of a mess. The router is sure getting a workout on this project. I think I've used it more in the last few weeks than in the rest of the 5 or 6 years I've had it!