My Tips For Beginners

[cyberleader1991]

Well, as my box nears completion, I have had many thoughts as to how I could have done things better or differently, and thought I could share them with anyone just starting.

1) Locate Glen "Kiwi" Walker's TARDIS Builder's Guide if you haven't seen it already. Glen has the right idea (the section on corner post construction was particularily helpful) and his build is a work of art.  

2)Never mix plywood and MDF on the same part. I learned this the hard (and expensive!) way. In fact, try to avoid MDF altogether! It may be cheaper, but it is also much heavier and less durable than ply. Here's what happened in my build: for two walls and the doors, I used 3/4" ply strips for the front, which were glued and screwed onto a 1/2" piece of MDF for the back. Well, it turns out that as the moisture in the glue evaporates, the MDF shrinks, warping the wall (in both planes!) and thereby ruining all your hard work.  

3) If I ever make another TARDIS I will definitely make the corner posts first. A lot of work for not much result!  :-/

4) The walls and doors are the easiest, save them for last.  

5) Don't bother making fancy 45 degree angle cuts on corners, such as the base, roof, Pull to Open sign, etc. They have to be cut PERFECT to work right and are less strong than the same join at 90 degrees. And besides once the paint goes on you can't tell they're there!  

6) If using a table or circular saw, make absolutely certain that the blade is set at 90 degrees for cuts, particularily in making the sign boxes. It is essential the sign boxes are square, at least in my box they hold the whole thing together! Don't just trust your blade tilt; check it with a right angle too.  

7) In my opinion, the roof is not nearly as hard to make as is it's reputation. Everyone worries about "all the angles", but you only need to work with one. I used an incline of 10 degrees. Just make sure you build the top roof stage (or step) first, then the lower steps around that, as it's not too much fun trying to squeeze a roof section into the lower step that's too small!!!  >

The base is a piece of cake, if your lumber is available like it is here in Canada. Here a 2" x 4" length of pine is actually 1/2" x 3 1/2", so by laying 2 x 4's down and screwing a square piece of 3/4" ply to them, you get the ideal base height of 2 1/4"! This also allows you to, if you so desire, screw 1 3/4" casters to the bottom for the ply, giving your base a clearance of 1/4". My box looks like it's sitting on the floor... but it's not!   Edit: The 1 3/4" casters were not strong enough, half of them broke... now using 2 1/2" with far superior performance

9) If you make your box modular like mine (that is, easy to take apart and move around), make absolutely certain that you do not install the wall hanging dowels at the same height!!!   I did, forgetting that I needed room (lots of room) in between the dowels to hang the walls, AND screw the wingnuts on!!!  > My system works, but only just and I have to put the box together in a certain order, or it won't work!  

10) Check, double-check, and triple-check your plans. I was just starting to put primer on one day, was looking at my plans whilst having a smoke break... Great Gallifrey! I made the second step of my roof an inch too short!!! How'd that happen?!     Edit: This has since been corrected

11) Painting the window bars with a brush is tedious beyond belief - either spray them OR paint the timber with a brush BEFORE cutting it up! Then you will only have to touch up later when it's all glued together!  8-)

12) More to come as I think of them

[avadh]

An important thing to do first is before you start cutting any wood to size is to make sure that none of the wood is bent or warped. Make sure the wood is in the best quality and condition as possible. Buy the best type of timber and plywood that you can afford which is strong and weather durable as well.

Also check your tardis plans and dimensions as often as possible. Make sure that all the dimensions are in proportion with one another and try not to deviate from the plans.

[TG]

Hi Tom
Your TARDIS is looking brilliant!
I just wanted to say thank you from me as a beginner for this thread and all your advice.
And, as you say, The TARDIS builders Manual is excellent.

I'm still struggling with dimensions - could I ask height, base and door size of your build?
TG

[anthonysibley]

Time Girl,

As you've seen Glen's TARDIS Builder's manual that we kind of worked on together, he did the words based on his building experiences and a rather long and expensive phone call that we had at an unGodly hour, I can probably help you out with the dimensions... I will hopefully soon be working with Glen on a Version 2 document in the very near future.

Door height = 6'6"
Door width (single) = 18"
Centre door divide =2"

Window/Panel height = 15"
Window/Panel width = 12"

Steps above doors/walls (height) = 3 x 1" each (3")
Sign lintel height = 6"
Corner Post above Lintel = 2"
All the roof & Pitch segments (height) = 2"

Base height = 3"
Base width = the same as the total of the main construction, plus the two side Sign Lintels
Corner post width = 6"

This is enough to get you started, you can work the rest out yourself from these measurements and these are those as used by Glen in his build.

The new version of the Manual will include all the dimensions for this prop, plus notes for a different style roof, as well as more information on how things are fashioned, building tips and quite possibly schematics to other TARDIS related props.

Hope that helps.

Anthony

[Mark]

Nice box Tom,

Thanks for the tips. It's always the same when you do something, there is always a "wish I'd done this instead".

Its nice that people who've already done it, share the downfalls with those of us who are just about to start.

Thanks again.

[freakstardis]

The new version of the Manual will include all the dimensions for this prop, plus notes for a different style roof, as well as more information on how things are fashioned, building tips and quite possibly schematics to other TARDIS related props.

OOH OOH OOH!!!

Whenever the new version comes out, PLEASE make sure that a link is posted here. The first one was so good!!!

[TG]

Anthony - Thank you!!
Not just dimensions but dimensions from the TARDIS guru! - I'll go with that.
I'd better just go out and rev-up my biscuit jointer.
TG

[Scarfwearer]

Steve Hobley put up a nice list on TheTardisBuildersGuild of tips from his recent build:

"Now that I'm 99.9% complete on the project I'd like to share my top 10 tips for building a police box:

10) Start with some good plans - and a good 4' T-square with the same units as your plans.

9) Make sure that you have a perpendicular blade on your tablesaw - mine wandered off a few degrees during construction, and I'm having to patch areas that don't fit properly.

Build somewhere flat! I'm sure most of my problems stemmed from trying to use a spirit level on an uneven floor!

7) Start a production line - focus on one type of piece each day, make your measurements, recheck and then cut all the pieces you are going to need. Eg - window frames, vertical panel prices, horizontal panel pieces etc...

6) Get some help! My wife Suzannah, Ed at Home Depot, Emily from the hairdressers all helped me with construction - sometimes you need an extra pair of hands.

5) Get some clamps - all kinds. You need at least 4 clamps to make the posts properly - I used 2 and had to make up for a lot of 'bowing' with sandpaper and filler.

4) Drill a hole in the base for a power cord before you start to assemble!

3)  Get your friends over for a painting party in the garage. Painting -> Half-Life 2 -> beer [Repeat]

2) Use a good primer and a good paint - and use a brush not a roller for a more weathered look.

1) Join the group and share your experiences.

(copied here from http://groups.msn.com/thetardisbuildersguild/general.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=926&LastModified=4675502589867816517
"

[Scarfwearer]

The story of my build is here:
http://www.relative-dimensions.net/Police%20Box/index.htm,
which also has quite a few tips.

Crispin

[macros]

Hey Guys,

I am sure everyone appreciates the tips for beginners! Allot of these things mentioned you don't really think of till your way into a build.....and sometimes thats a little too late

Anthony, we will be looking forwards to the new version of the manual and thank you and KiwiDoc for the efforts to date for compiling it. Also Scarfwearer's info is greatly helpful.

Tom, fantasic build! Always blows me away to see new builds. Can almost smell the paint drying from here! Hopefully we can get some more piccies of it soon!

[cyberleader1991]

Timegirl, are you still interested in my door dims? My walls turned out to be 79" x 40" (width between posts is 36, but I needed an extra 2" on each side to hang them).  Steps are the top 3" of each wall.

My doors are essentally a wall cut in half up the middle, only with an extra 1" on each side for the hinges (instead of 2") and are 1 1/2" shorter on top to make room for the L-brackets holding the front steps on to the sign box. So they are 19" x 77.5".

My base is 2 1/4" high, 51" square. Supposed to be 50.

[TG]

Thanks for the helpful info Tom.
I was hoping your TARDIS might just re-materialise at my house, then I wouldn't have to worry about door dims - but no such luck
TG

[Sorvan]

Don't assume that the markings on your tools are accurate.  Here's a picture of the gauge when my compound mitre saw is set up to exactly 45°.


One of these days I should probably adjust it from it's "factory set" position.  The tilt to 45° is also off, and that's even harder to adjust.

Make sure to invest in good measuring tools!

Colin

[cyberleader1991]

I agree with Sorvan. I had to turf two complete sign boxes because they were visibly not square. What a waste of wood.

[Doctor Iz]

-Tom and Anthony-

New to the forum &  I don't want to be a hassle.

I downloaded Glen's Tardis Manual v1.
Many thank you's on the manual.  It's quite impressive and greatly appreciated. Karsten has given me some great help in my hunt for details.

I am state side, so for reference.  I am wondering did v2 of the manual come to life?  If so, would you send me the pdf? 

Also, I went to the local Lowe's & Home Depot and they don't carry 1" MDF.  I was curious on the measurements?  Is MDF true to it's dimensions?  They did have 3/4", but I want to stick to what the plans say.   Also, I saw the caution using MDF with plywood.  The manual references 1" recess for the door panel to get the appropriate affect.  I also reviewed clarifications on the corner posts on the forum to hide the seam, which will be of help.

I was planning using 1/2" Sanded Pine Ply, but if 3/4" is better I can do that instead, I am still at a loss for a substitute of the 1" MDF for framing over the plywood.

Karsten got me hooked up with the site for a Fresnel lens, just got that last week and Yale 706 Lock came from the UK today. 

What about signage and colour.  I reviewed colour swatches today, no Royal blue, Prussian blue or Oxford Blue (Read the controversy on Oxford Blue)  I am getting all my supplies together.  I plan to put a grocery list of supplies and approximate cost of building as the project advances, perhaps to help give something back to the forum to new comers.

What types of clamps should I use for the posts?  Quick clamps that you squeeze together?

Sorry for the long post.  I would appreciate any assistance!  Looke forward to sharing my project.  IF all goes well, I will build an indoor model for my home.  The wife thinks I am losing it already.