Swindon TARDIS

[iamjacksid]

Ive finally decided to get on with it and build my first TARDIS

Ive collected way too many blueprints so Ive picked the new series  to work with as I kinda like the chubby look of the thing.

My first plan is to make as practise TARDIS cabinet for amp and projector etc to go in the living room on wheels.

After that then onto a full size Edward Thomas Box
for the garden - with the abilty to take it apart as if it was a prop on the show.

So my first job is to scale down the ET box (as Im gonna call it now)

Exactly what scale Im not sure yet so Im working that out of paper first and making a paper template version.

Task 1 -
Spend Time And find the Reletive Dimensions in this web Space
(yes I really did that)


Steve

[iamjacksid]

The more I look into the construction of a TARDIS the more fancinating I find it -
The prospect of getting hold of a proper B & Q Lamp (im a stickler) Is making me serioulsy want the full size option right off.

Anything other than a 1:1 breakdown prop for the garden just feels like im putting it off.
I WANT to be able to get into the thing too - and be in the garden in the sun (when we get some) with it.

With this in mind Im rethinking the entire project and rescaling my plans for a full size break down version.
Many blogs on this forum show the build as in work and going smoothly - whereas Im starting from my first thoughts before any pics that are gonna get taken get posted and im all over the place lol

A cabinet that is glued and fixed offers different options for construction than one than needs to be broken down into parts.
Some of this idea is based on the costing I did for the approx half build - a full size build isnt as scary when you sit down and actually plan it out  - I recomend that to anyone worried or thinking of JUST (lol) buying one ready made. - using a supplier  - I used the Wickes website - I was able to figure out much I needed the itrems code numbers and the total cost with running around and measuring OR more important spending time and money on too much stuff.

Im still on 2005 version and Im now working out the construction into parts.

The roof with lamp
Four posts or corners
Three sides double door width
Two doors with hinges attatches to battons for easy fix
Four POLICE BOX signs
Base

So now into studying the TV prop closer - stil using the plans as I mention above so making a set of plans with dimensions is next - Another fualt of this is watching the Peter Cushing Doctor Whos the other day and the big old wide movie prop from that.

Back to the drawing board as they say........Oh Billie please bring round some chips......
Im Hank Marvin..

(Steve really)

[iamjacksid]

Task 2
Ok well Im sure that the big question is what size your TARDIS is going to be ? and what plans do you work from?

From What Ive seen online is doesnt really matter as long as you are happy with the finished job.

I decided to use the BILL RUDLOFF plans (thanks for posting that)

As much as its fun to work out and upscale I thought I would tailor the build so it was big enough, or at least wide enough to fit my very sturdy Pioneer amp and vid projector -

This will be a HI-FI (do we still say that ?) cabinet on wheels for my living room.

I used poster montage software and printed out 25 A4 sheets at draft setting and removed the block of black in the Police BOX to save ink as its not reqd right now.

Then sellotaped them together to give me a 1:1 blueprint to measure from.
Just to see how big this thing will end up.

Its a lot bigger than you exspect but of course this is governed by the width of the items it needed to contain - so its 26 wide x 53 inches tall enough to throw a projection image from the back right side window and narrow enough to go through the doors of the house.

There are half scale or smaller build plans online but again it depends on what era you want to make.

I may work in metric or imperial depending on how I feel cos Im mad like that.

So the crazy plan now is to design the construction and make a cutting list.
Then a hunt through the timber available from my sheds hoard to yield most of it.

Seeing as the Edward Thomas version lacks a lot of corner beading on the posts in may be cheaper as timber bead can end up being one of the most exspensive bits.

Again money isnt a real issue but its a good idea to decide which version and how you will build it as this will effect the total cost.

I think the reason there is no defintive blueprint or internal construction is again it doesnt matter as long as the exterior looks right and its the version you want to make.

With that in mind the construction of the doors walls and corners may depend on what wood you  have laying about or the sizes you find at your supplier - and if they will cut some of the larger sheets for you. Figure all this out before you start.

Now I have a full size print to measure from - I can now make a new A4 print to carry about in my wallet and add the dimensions of this TARDIS.

This then can be used to shop around for ideas and for pricing up.

Now I can figure out exactly how to use the timber I already have.

For instance I have a lot of 10mm ply shelving which while not wide enough for a single side can be used to make 8 doors - 6 of which will end up battoned together with 2 opening at the front.


Task 3
Using this make in cardboard a copy of approx how big the TARDIS will look using bit of packaging I have laying about.
If this is done with a little care section such as the roof with it angles will mean it can be used as a template to work too when cutting the timber.

Another idea I though of is to make in plasterboard sheeting - its easier to cut and screw to internal battons or masking take together.
You wont get the grain of timber of course and it wont be as hardwearing - but for living room use and with some timber cladding on the corner posts to avoid bumps it might be a quick and dirty version - If you construct using a plaster box as the guts with wooden doors at the front.

For a smaller version this might be a good way to check out your construction using just a stanley knife and straight edge.


Tools
Im using a compound mitre table saw
Hand held dimension saw
Hand held electric planer
Electric drill  / screwdriver

A dimension table I think my be usefull for the full size build in the future.

All the standard kit you might espect. As this is a solid build I will be gluing it and screwing.

Making in mdf or some plywood constructs or even GRP for instance maybe wont give you that nice deep grain from solid timber you see on the 2005 show onwards.

The new Tardis does look a bit mucky but still the grain shows through - this is what I want even on the smaller build.

Depending then on the success of this smaller build I would be interested in casting a side
(4 sides total)  the roof and a base in concrete to sit in the garden.

It might be a nice thing to go back to how the things where originally made and molding like making those 70`s wall bricks. It could end up as a good bird table especially if you use the idea of bird feeder seen on this forum somewhere in place of a lamp.





One thing I noticed right away was how the this version lamp matched a jam jar I have lots of  - which while not crucial was a good start and a relief to not worry about getting that right.

So I spose I should figure out how to post pics here - as It might make all this much easier to understand.

anon

[iamjacksid]

B & Q Lantern

After a good search through this site it seems the 2005 Tardis using a now discontinued brass garden lantern from B & Q which I of course really like...now Ive missed it.

After a search online the one place that had one similair and also found here is from this site :
http://www.gardenitems.co.uk/lights_candle_hanging.php

http://www.chaselink.co.uk/HTML%20files/Chase%20Garden%20Products/cgp-accessories.html

lantern height = 31cm; lantern diameter = 19cm  @£40
So is this too big? kinda looks it for a full size build that is.

For those is the states this came in in searching :
http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/RTProduct.asp?SKU=GAR-L6104&src=shoppingcom&kw=GAR-L6104

I found this in B & Q for £30 with all the internal light fittings etc easily adaptable I thought to suit but maybe too small?
8 1/2 x 5 inches

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9706759&fh_view_size=6&fh_start_index=96&fh_eds=%3f&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB%2fcategories%3c%7b10099%7d%2fcategories%3c%7b8960079%7d%2fcategories%3c%7b8960081%7d&fh_refview=lister&ts=1208551303085&isSearch=false

I have no problem with the BBC using a cheap lantern from B & Q rather than waste a load of money on trying to find the perfect thing or worse spending a fortune making one up from scratch. Its all about being fit for its purpose  - now of course they are all gone - they may even change it when it breaks or copy what they have - unless they brought loads.....

Again does it really matter and long as its about right - every Tardis is different as long as it doesnt look too funky.

This new  lamp tho is pretty sturdy and with al lthe internal electrics might be OK with a little tweaking.

[willytron]

Brilliant bit of research!  I especially thank you for going one extra and finding it in the states.  And for anly $20!  Wow.  I already have an old lantern that my grandparents gave me years ago, IT don't look quite the same, but it will do. 


The only problem is that I can't find the glass panes.  I may just have to get the one similar to the NST.  Hmmm, decisions, decisions decisions.

[meantimebob]

B & Q Lantern

After a good search through this site it seems the 2005 Tardis using a now discontinued brass garden lantern from B & Q which I of course really like...now Ive missed it.

After a search online the one place that had one similair and also found here is from this site :
http://www.gardenitems.co.uk/lights_candle_hanging.php

http://www.chaselink.co.uk/HTML%20files/Chase%20Garden%20Products/cgp-accessories.html

lantern height = 31cm; lantern diameter = 19cm  @£40
So is this too big? kinda looks it for a full size build that is.

For those is the states this came in in searching :
http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/RTProduct.asp?SKU=GAR-L6104&src=shoppingcom&kw=GAR-L6104

I found this in B & Q for £30 with all the internal light fittings etc easily adaptable I thought to suit but maybe too small?
8 1/2 x 5 inches

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9706759&fh_view_size=6&fh_start_index=96&fh_eds=%3f&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB%2fcategories%3c%7b10099%7d%2fcategories%3c%7b8960079%7d%2fcategories%3c%7b8960081%7d&fh_refview=lister&ts=1208551303085&isSearch=false

I have no problem with the BBC using a cheap lantern from B & Q rather than waste a load of money on trying to find the perfect thing or worse spending a fortune making one up from scratch. Its all about being fit for its purpose  - now of course they are all gone - they may even change it when it breaks or copy what they have - unless they brought loads.....

Again does it really matter and long as its about right - every Tardis is different as long as it doesnt look too funky.

This new  lamp tho is pretty sturdy and with al lthe internal electrics might be OK with a little tweaking.

I think they must have bought loads of them, weren't they decorating the church at Donna's aborted wedding a few xmasses ago??

[kiwidoc]

They were the mini-one in the same )or similar range.  Reinforced my idea that thy probably had a shed load of them though..

I think they must have bought loads of them, weren't they decorating the church at Donna's aborted wedding a few xmas

ses ago??

[iamjacksid]

Well Ive still not put my tool belt on but with most things I reckon a lot can be sorted in the planning.
Ive spend the morning looking at the Wickes website here which is very handy as it shows dimensions, prices and the code for ordering so you dont have to get lost looking for bits and measuring everything over and over (thats the plan anyway)

I have made a cutting list and priced up the bulk of the job this doesnt include :
- The lantern which I may use a jam jar - sticking self adhesive window leading  for the desired effect of 2005 Tardis.

The castors which I may pick up Ikea on my next trip
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/96671300
If they ever keep em in stock that is.

The signage I think I can print out the "free for public use" sign onto card - then using a mylar sheet to cover (the kind used for laser printing) with round head small black screws in the corners to give the desired effect.

The 4 main "police box" signs need a bit more research and think of options available without breaking the bank.

My thoughts on making the signs white letters with black background allowing light through to illuminate the lettering.

Screen printing onto plastic on the inside as Ive seen here. (exspensive?) Each police box casing could then contain a small strip light wired to switch inside the doors.
As this is a HI FI cabinet it will contain a socket block to allow these strip lights to be wired on a simple plug.
The Tardis inself then with have a lead out of the base for pluging in wall socket.

One idea that strikes me is with projector inside , amp, media player etc this is pretty much a self contained portable entertainment unit -
Tardis shaped on wheels - Im kind getting goose bumps thinking about the possibilites.

For the 4 Police Box signs..

Maybe getting one A3 card printed out locally would be cheap enough given the amount of dense black reqd.
Cut into 4 strips and put behind glass.

I say glass as Ive found that plastic can be a lot more exspensive and scratches easy.
Glass is hard wearing depending on type and thickness of course and if inserted correctly could be replaced if broken.

The detail is then always on the print behind the glass rather than on the reverse of a sheet of plastic.

With this in mind Im thinking of desiging the police box logo casing to allow the glass to be removed or replaced.

To do this I think having the top part loose or drop fit would allow access to the lighting and glass / logo.
My first go at posting pics...quick and dirty and not to scale...



As I said as this is a smaller version and wll be looked at closely Im not using ply anywhere where the plywood end grain is visible as its nasty - timber will always blend and take paint better and of course show up a nice some grain.

Im going to use a hot air gun and wire brush to POP the grain a little before and during painting.

You my have noticed Im all over the place with this at the moment as Im thinking about the harder parts first - but propably doing them last. This way the idea can sit in my head until I get there.

By which time It may change and hopefully improve.

One thing Im concerned about in the air flow so I think the base will have a square hole as will the projector shelf.

When building anything where over heating can be a problem its defintly better to design in access and airflow.

I def dont want to include a fan as I dont want any additional noise from this unit.

With a working lock this can also be secure from fiddling fingers...

[iamjacksid]

Out of interest Im using mostly all new wood now as Its easier.
Ive designed the construction to use the min amount of cutting.
Large plyood cutting done at the store (free) after purchase.
Other cutting done using the compound mitre table saw for neatnesss.
All timber widths as purchased of the shelf.

Without the glass or printing logos and odd bits such as castors handles etc
I have lighting screws, glue, masking tape (for assembly) filler (eek) leading for lamp, tools.

The painting will be the most fun - definatly undercoated grey (white with a splash) and then a search for the right color blue and the right weathering dry brushing to match and look like a worn out old 2005 Tardis.

Its costing out at under £100 so far. - Which looks pretty good to me.
One of the most exspensive parts are the smaller strips of timber / moulding etc so its good to keep that in mind when designing.
depend on how you want the finished item to look some of the edging could be MDF or plaster or metal for that matter - depending on what is available and cheap.

I espect it to be about £150 at this rate depending on how flash I want to logo work to look...

Nose back to the grindstone - and some John Pertwee Who I think...

[iamjacksid]

After looking at more reference pics Ive decided to change the doors slighltly.
They were originally the same thickness as the walls which is plywood to battons to mimick panels.

As the doors of this unit open outwards to allow access to the Music center inside the back of the doors with show up as just plain plywood.

I prefer the white painted look as seen from the inside of the doors showing panels etc.

To achieve this Im going to use thinner plywood and sandwich it between two battons one set on either side.
The battons themselves will not have angeled edges as this is a smaller build its not something Im going to worry about too much.

When the inside of the unit is painted white - matt, silk or gloss? the door detail should look a lot better than just plain ply.

Thinking of this I think the full size build would def benefit from a more time being taken with the doors for the same effect.

Maybe enclosing the plywood with timber edging would look more like a real panel door.
using timber the same width as the ply - box in the sides and maybe the top and bottom.

The added plus of this is is then becomes a REAL door and allows neat plaining of the edging without wrecking your plainer blades.

Making this way also means the the plywood can be smaller and machine cut roughly without the need for sanding or plaining.

Of course regardless having nice wooden edged doors is by far the best.

This is not nessisary for the walls tho it would allow for some creative edge attatchments for dissasembly that plywood sides wouldnt like... such as dowels, bolts or...
Check the Screwfix website for ideas..
http://www.screwfix.com/cats/5/Fixings

Depending on your construction and intended use - the way the unit is kept together as a moving prop has numerous options.

For my full size build I may construct with the internal walls held together with pop g clamps.
With clamping areas included on the inside - the unit could be assembled quickly.

If countersunk for screws or bolted are the unit could be secured then or left - useful it you want to break down the prop quickly.

It seems the two side walls could include the posts. That way the back and the front two doors could be removable.

Thought son this again are how much width do you have to transport it?
Back of van? Hatchback? Roof rack? If its going to be made for moving design the assemble based on the transport you have.

If the doors are loose and seperate - fixing the door hinges to battons which then are atttatched to the unit seems best - rather than worrying about undoing hinges and wearing out the screw holes.

This way the door hinge batton is screwed to the inside each time and of course if the screw holes wear down more can be added.

As a full size prop to move about keeping it as simple as possible with as few pieces and connections to avoid mistakes and breakages.

Ive looked at the TV prop but rather than copy what they have done Im trying to rethink the prop from scratch.

The full size build I intend to make will be solid enough sit in place but also break down - this is the most important thing. I dont want a giant heavy build stuck in the garden that I cannot move.

The next thought is the base......this may need wheels for when its being used indoors or on flat surface such as a pavement.

Rather than make two or more bases - a heavy duty castor wheel structure than is boltable to the underside of the base.

This can then be used to transport sections to the location and when setting up bolted to the underside through the base before the sides etc are attatched. - Chocking the thing while in use would be an idea to stop it rolling about.

More of an idea than a definate at the moment tho - maybe the unit being not movable with prevent it from going walkies.

Again the castor  unit would be removable...

[chriskingbees]

Hi Steve

This is the B&Q lantern, and I have one left in my shed which I won't be using, being a fresnel person myself
I found a garden centre near me selling them and I bought the last four they had
I'm happy to send it to you. £9.99 plus postage



KB

[iamjacksid]

Brilliant ! thanks very much ! I wil P.M. with details ...Nice one..