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The Key to Time Tracer **Now a Build Diary**

Started by eddyc, May 29, 2012, 02:31 am

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eddyc

I looked over some of the DVDs last night and the core bit seems clear when the tracer is not lit. The pink colour maybe from a bit of red on the light in the handle.

I could also put in a piece of red perspex that would slide down inside the probe when you tip in down.

Still not sure if I should try for sound.

eddyc

I've added a red core to the drawing.

Thinkng of cool ways to make it move as you trace the section of the key...

Tracer_v2010 redcore.JPG

galacticprobe

Jun 05, 2012, 06:07 am #17 Last Edit: Jan 12, 2013, 11:53 pm by Scarfwearer
Maybe you could have the red core sit inside the handle loosely (with just a little of it showing in the clear rod part). This way if you held the tracer with the tip downward slightly just the vibrations from walking, or centrifugal force from waving it from one side to the other, would cause the core to work its way slowly towards the top, making it look like the signal was getting stronger as you neared the segment. Then all you'd have to do to retract the core would be to lift the tip upwards and the core would slide back into the handle.

It's one simple possibility.

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"

eddyc

Jun 05, 2012, 11:42 am #18 Last Edit: Jan 12, 2013, 11:53 pm by Scarfwearer
Thought of that..  as well as putting a thermometer in the core and when you turn the light on the heat causes the red line to extend. Problem it it would take a while for the temperature to drop again once the light was turned off.

I have another idea for this... a secret for now.. and sound that responses to the movement of the tracer....

metalunamutant

Quote from: eddyc on Jun 01, 2012, 08:22 pm
TADA! 

Coloured bits for one Tracer!
IMG_0285.JPG



Where did you get those clear buttons? I'm getting materials together for a tracer and am looking for copies of those 1/2" and 5/8" buttons.

eddyc

Jan 11, 2013, 08:12 pm #20 Last Edit: Jan 12, 2013, 11:53 pm by Scarfwearer
I bought them from a company in the U.S. called Newark, their website is Newark.com and the carry all sorts of electrical items.

There are a few different lenses that look the same but vary greatly in price, these are the prefect size and were not to bad on cost.

I'll check when I get home from work and post the item numbers for you.

P.S.  The coloured lenses on the tracer were the same as the lenses on the buttons that were used on K-9.

metalunamutant

Jan 12, 2013, 10:24 pm #21 Last Edit: Jan 12, 2013, 11:54 pm by Scarfwearer
I've been looking thru the Newark Eletronics button lenses, but all seem to be as bigger than the ones on the prop. I'm assuming the tracer hilt is 19 mm wide (3/4").

These are the only lenses I've found at Newark Electronics small enough.
http://www.newark.com/catalog_130/index.html?page=1763
click bottom left column  - Command Series Lens Button

Assuming the tracer hilt is 19 mm wide (3/4"), these buttons are 15mm square and 15 mm x 21 mm.

4462891.jpg

4464129.jpg

This is admittedly larger than the 12.7 mm and 12.7mm x 15.8 mm (1/2" and 1/2" x 5/8") buttons on the mock-up plans I'm using but they are the closest I've found - and they even have the right colors. Every other button lens I found there was too big.

Let me know what you think.

eddyc

Quote from: metalunamutant on Jan 12, 2013, 10:24 pm
I've been looking thru the Newark Eletronics button lenses, but all seem to be as bigger than the ones on the prop. I'm assuming the tracer hilt is 19 mm wide (3/4").

These are the only lenses I've found at Newark Electronics small enough.
http://www.newark.com/catalog_130/index.html?page=1763
click bottom left column  - Command Series Lens Button

Assuming the tracer hilt is 19 mm wide (3/4"), these buttons are 15mm square and 15 mm x 21 mm.   
This is admittedly larger than the 12.7 mm and 12.7mm x 15.8 mm (1/2" and 1/2" x 5/8") buttons on the mock-up plans I'm using but they are the closest I've found - and they even have the right colors. Every other button lens I found there was too big.

Let me know what you think.



The ones I bought are on page 1760, they are the same size but have a different connector so the sides are smooth, but they cost a bit more. 

The original ones were described as Honeywell switches, and they are really expensive, if you can find them..... 

In order to keep the scale right I've just added 1/8" to the length of the hilt.  Unless you have the original (not Photos) to compare it to, you will not notice the difference.

The common agreement on various boards is that the hilt is 3/4" or as it was made in the UK, 21mm...


Can't wait to see your build,

Ed

metalunamutant

I bought the small lenses from newark catalog, page 1763. They came this afternoon, here's a quick cell pic. I popped 2 apart to show the button lens assembly.

photo1_zps13e47c05.jpg

When the acrylic tubes etc I ordered from plastruct arrive I'll be ready to make some firm plans.

The only question left is the tip arrangement. One poster somewhere commented that part of it looked like a syringe tip, inverted, inside the tube pointed towards the hilt, and I agree. The rest of the tip layout is only approximate however.

eddyc

Bought some 3/4 inch aluminum tube from Lowe's last night.

Going to wrap it in some thin arylic to make the hilt.

IMG_0504.JPG

metalunamutant

I've build one here

20391-photo-4.jpg

And here's a brief build log http://www.therpf.com/f11/doctor-who-key-time-tracer-build-175694/

To everyone that posted here, especially eddyc Thanks! All the info (especially about those buttons) was a big help!

eddyc

Mar 09, 2013, 05:32 pm #26 Last Edit: Mar 10, 2013, 03:12 pm by eddyc
It's been a while so I thought I would update this project.

I decided to use a 3/4 inch square aluminum tube for strength.

I then took the 3/4 inch square aluminum tube and sanded it to give it's surface a good grip.

I glued strips of styrene to the tube for a good painting surface
IMG_0527.JPG

Filler putty was applied to the seams and when it dried I filed and sanded it to a smooth surface.
IMG_0523.JPG
IMG_0525.JPG

After the filling and sanding I drilled holes for the button supports to fit in and gave it a coat pf grey primer.

IMG_0528.JPG

Here is what it looks like with some of the buttons in place. 

IMG_0529.JPG


I still have to trim the button connectors so that they can be glued into place for good.

Also, still arranging for a trip to the plastic store to pick up the clear tubes and the white acrylic for the ends.


More to come!

Eddy

galacticprobe

Mar 10, 2013, 05:50 am #27 Last Edit: Mar 10, 2013, 05:51 am by galacticprobe
I've said it before, Eddy, but I'll say it again (with a few more modifiers added to it)... Is there anything in the way of props that you can't render with excellence and then turn into a solid, super accurate 3-D build?

Dino.
"What's wrong with being childish?! I like being childish." -3rd Doctor, "Terror of the Autons"