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NST2010

Started by pmc, Apr 17, 2010, 04:17 pm

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pmc

Aug 06, 2011, 06:34 pm #60 Last Edit: Aug 21, 2011, 02:44 pm by pmc
Today I started to make the end caps for the corner posts. As the corner posts are slightly wider than the width of wood that I'm using due to the dado joint that I used I needed to create a two piece cap. To do this I glued together two triangles of wood just slightly larger than what I will need to allow me to trim them down.

pmc_tb25.jpg

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I used Titebond III wood glue to glue the caps as recommended by Philip, ill see how these are doing tomorrow.

Unfortunately I'm unable to get started on the base as I'm waiting for an attachment for my saw table that will enable me to make the 30 degree cut for the edge of the base.

So as not to lose too much time I decided to start the window frames. Last week I found some patterned polycarbonate that looks to be very close to the two bottom outer panes of the windows. These came in A4 sheets, 4mm thick, which allowed me to cut two panes out of each using the table saw, 8 sheets later and I had the 16 panes I will need.

pmc_tb27.jpg

I have just ordered the clear panes for the rest of the window, fortunately these will come cut to size.

I cut down one of the 20.5mm  X 144mm boards to give me lengths of 20.5mm by 15mm, these will be used to construct the window frames. I then routed a 5mm channel in each to give me a groove that I can set the panes into. Some of them had this groove cut in both sides, these will be used for the inside part of the window.

pmc_tb28.jpg

The pictures below show how I will construct the windows, Ive used the patterned polycarbonate panes to give you an idea of what it will look like. All I need to do now is cut the cross pieces, this will be slightly more complicated as I need to cut sections where they can overlap.

pmc_tb29.jpg

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philipw

Nice progress. Windows... so much fun.

geminitimelord

excellent job on the windows mate!  That is one area I had no patience and instead just glued the frames to the pane.  Wish I had the equipment to make that channel cut but still as you pointed out the cross members is where the real trick is.  Good Luck..

philipw

Just like the NST props...  :)

pmc

Hi everybody, before I update just a couple of things to mention.

Firstly wood warp factor 10. Due to the fact I bought my wood online I didn't have the opportunity to sort through what I bought, this meant the wood warp factor couldn't be kept low so I do have a few issues with some of my boards.

Secondly nobody told me that as well as creating a Tardis I would also be creating the worlds biggest pile of saw dust. Its everywhere, I spend quite a lot of time sweeping, clearing, hovering the damn stuff up. It would be interesting to see all the saw dust from all the builds on here in one place, i think we would have quite a mountain :)

Anyway back to my build. You may remember earlier I was creating my end caps for the corner posts, well I had a bit of an issue and this was due to the aforementioned wood warp. I should have checked these but when the glue had set these weren't exactly flat, the up shot was I had to remake them.

The picture below shows the remade end cap with a rebate, this is to allow it to fit into the end of the corner post as illustrated in the further pictures.

pmc_tb31.jpg

pmc_tb32.jpg

pmc_tb33.jpg

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As you can see these have an overlap that will be removed later with the router. These were all glued and stood upright but inverted so all the weight of the post was on the cap, this was because clamping these end caps would have been a challenge.

Next I cut all the wood for the window frames, these include all the routed channels for the glass.

pmc_tb35.jpg

The two central stiles and single rail join at their intersection with a half lap joint.

pmc_tb36.jpg

I did try making mortise and tenon joints where the rail and stiles joined the edge pieces and although this kind of worked the time taken to do each one was going to mean I would be doing these windows for a very long time and the margin for error is very small. So I decided I will hold everything in place with small panel pins as well as gluing all the joints. The glass or acrylic will be held in place in the channels with mastic which will also provide the seal against the weather. Once done I think everything should be pretty solid.

Unfortunately I haven't received my clear acrylic window panes so I cant get these finished.

pmc_tb37.jpg

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I have bought the primer and exterior white paint so I will get on with this while I wait for the acrylic.












pmc

Finally got the corner posts finished today, yeeha :)

The end caps were routed down, then filled where there were some small gaps, then sanded down.

pmc_tb39.jpg

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Now I need to get the base started but my problem is I'm waiting for an attachment to my saw table that will allow me to cut the 30 degree slope on the edge.


geminitimelord

SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSweeeet.. ;D

Wow this is looking good. I am very impressed with the windows. Not quite sure how you fit them together from the pile of cuts and the finished product but still they look awesome.

I know you mentioned the paint earlier, if this Box looks like Phillip's in quality and it sure looks like it is in that direction so far, you absolutely have to figure a way to do the Subaru Blue Paint!!

philipw

Sure looking good there!

pmc

Aug 21, 2011, 02:37 pm #68 Last Edit: Aug 21, 2011, 02:45 pm by pmc
Hello there,

Well I've made a start on my base. As mentioned earlier I have ordered a part for my saw table that will allow me to cut the 30 degree angle in the base, unfortunately I'm still awaiting this part so cant get on with this as much as id like. The other issue I have is that the maximum cut depth of my saw table is about 55-60mm which isn't enough to cut the angle of the base in one go. My solution to this is to build the base up of four planks laminated together. The sloped section will be cut into three of these laminated planks where as the fourth will be stepped down which will then provide the rebate for the floor. Out of the three planks that need the angle cut out of them I will laminate two as these can be chamfered together and the third will be chamfered on its own. This sounds a bit complicated but hopefully the pictures below will explain better.

pmc_tb43.jpg

The picture above shows the four pieces of 144mm X 20mm planks that I will use to make the laminated base.

pmc_tb44.jpg

The above picture shows two planks that I will glue so I can cut these togetherhe, the third will be done separately. Once all have had the angle cut into them ill laminate them all together with the fourth rebated plank.

pmc_tb45.jpg

I started by cutting all the pieces that will have the angle cut out.

pmc_tb46.jpg

I then glued two pieces together that will have the angle cut out.

pmc_tb47.jpg

I cant now go any further until the table saw attachment arrives.

Next I thought I would make the support pieces for the four corner posts. Like PhillipW I will make inserts for the corner posts that will attach to the base. These were made in exactly the same way as the corner posts.

pmc_tb48.jpg

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I don't plan to glue these into the posts until I have the base finished.

Another issue I have is that the clear perspex I have ordered for the windows hasn't arrived yet so these are also on hold. Internet suppliers are now starting to drive me crazy and are holding me up arrggg >:( >:( >:(

philipw

Aug 22, 2011, 08:06 pm #69 Last Edit: Aug 22, 2011, 09:16 pm by philipw
You're going to love how this simplifies assembly of the TARDIS. Being able to stand the posts up and not worry about them falling over is great.

The only thing I'd suggest is to bevel the ends of them so it's easier to stick them in the socket you're building into the base. I also had these sit on top of my floor board to ensure it was held flat all the way around.

Looking great!

Doctor Iz

Sep 01, 2011, 12:05 am #70 Last Edit: Sep 01, 2011, 12:08 am by Doctor Iz
This looks incredible.  ;D You're off to great start. Great documentation of the process! Keep us posted on your progress. 
I felt the same way when I initially used a router, but there is no other tool to do the job! 

Cheers,
Jon
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h310/jonizdo/Logos/DRIZ_rev20080226copy-2.jpg)

pmc

Well its been a few weeks since my last post, the good news is that my clear perspex for the windows arrived and also my saw attachment that will allow me to cut the 30 degree chamfer into the base edges.

As mentioned in a previous post the base sides will be made up of four 20mm thick boards laminated together, three of these had the chamfered edge cut into them then they were glued. As my blade would only go through two boards at once two were laminated then had the chamfer cut then a single board had the chamfer cut this was then glued to the other two and is why in this pic there is a trailing edge.

pmc_tb53.jpg

The fourth board was going to be pre cut so as to introduce a rebate on the back side that would be used to set the floor into, I decided against this as I only want the rebate to be 15mm. This board was laminated to the rest then will have the rebate routed out later.

pmc_tb54.jpg

Here are all four trimmed up.

pmc_tb55.jpg

Next I had to cut the miter on each edge of each base piece. I had to do this by hand as there was no way my table saw would go through this many boards.

pmc_tb56.jpg

Next came the rebate that would allow the floor to sit flush with the top of the base.

pmc_tb57.jpg

Now came the time to put the base together. First off I glued each side together at the corners, I held each piece together with screws at the corner. These will be removed later and filed in. The glue I used for this was Gorilla Glue.

pmc_tb58.jpg

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I must say at this point that the mitered corners didn't all fit together perfectly and I'm going to have to use filler on some of them to get them right. I would say this has been the trickiest part of the build so far and caused the most frustration.

Anyway next came the floor. As I couldn't obtain marine ply that came in sufficient enough sizes so I could make the floor in a single piece I had to improvise and make it in four pieces. Each will be triangular, one for each side. I have seen this technique used elsewhere on here but I forget who it was, (sorry).

pmc_tb60.jpg

After each triangle was cut I fitted them into the base.

pmc_tb61.jpg

Again some size adjustments had to be made but everything fitted pretty well in the end.

Next I need to cut the corners of the floor to make space for the corner post support pieces. I also need to create the support for the floor.

philipw

Now that's a saw. Wow.

I want to see the video!

philipw

I know this may be too late, but you can get MDO plywood in the UK, and you can probably get an oversize sheet large enough to put your floor down in one piece. In the US, it's available in 4 x 8' and 5 x 10'. MDO is a great ply for this application as it's an exterior grade ply. Also known as sign board as it's most commonly use for road signs.

youmika

Wow wat an incredible build. Just amazing.
Bartender says: "We don't serve Timelords in this establishment."
Timelord steps into a Bar.